I had the exact same symptoms and it was the starter motor. That would be the place where I would start debugging. The low current circuit from the key switch energizes the solanoid. The also acts as a switch for the high current needed to by the starter to turn the engine. This became corroded over time and use. I took it apart and was able to clean and repair it, but I was a poor kid at the time, today I would get a nice shiny new motor.
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plus 3 on wiring and starter solenoid.
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Anyone here have an AutoXray EZScan 3000-6000?
Thanks for the help. One more question should do it. Along with the Die Hard battery, which battery do you all suggest for a "big" car like an 84 Chevy?
rustychevy- The "what`s best?" seems to change fairly often. Figure out what battery (size/etc.) you need and use the wonders of the internet to see what people think is best at this moment in time.
Or just get [whatever] since IMO it`s seldom all that critical. I have AC/Delco in Tahoe and it works fine.
My truck clicked like that before when I`d turn the key and hold it. Turned out to be a loose connection to the battery terminal. The lights in the car would go dim, so that`s a sure sign you`ve got battery issues. If the dome and dash lights don`t flicker when you turn the key then it`s something else most likely.
Walmart batteries are good and have a no questions asked warranty.
Pep Boys has some awesome Bosch batteries with very long warranty. For about 85 bucks.... If that`s your problem?
Good tips on the car lights affected by the battery. I had the battery cable replaced last year, the battery (dated 4-2013) is probably not the problem. Since my last post the clicking has stopped, if rain is actually a factor that might have been it.
rustychevy- Sounds like you`re making progress. If it *is* water-related, you oughta find/fix that before it turns into a more complicated issue due to corrosion. I myself would be looking at the recently replaced battery cable as a first step.
What part(s) would the "complicated issue" affect?
rustychevy- Like, say there`s a slight break in the cable insulation or a gap where the cable`s terminal(s) mount to the battery, and water gets in there. The water causes an issue until it dries up. BUT if that water causes corrosion (and doesn`t it always seem to do that eventually?!?) then the problem won`t be "just when it`s wet" and you could go nuts trying to find the problem since everything will look OK on the outside (corroded wiring is a HUGE PIA to sort out).
IMO (and hey, I`m sure no ASE-certified tech!) you oughta find a way to keep water out of all the "usual places" like where the battery cable insulation is stripped back to mount the terminals, the terminals themselves, and where they attach. Water + electronics = trouble IMO.
I ran across these things recently and I`ll be getting one. They`ll fit in a glove compartment or even a shirt pocket and can get you up and running in a heartbeat.
Help friends and people in a pickle and they`re extremely versatile. One of these could help with the OP`s original problem by quickly providing an alternate power supply.
Link: XP-10 MICRO-START by Antigravity Batteries
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