My SRT8 requires I use Mobil 1 0w40 full synthetic oil. Going to try some Brad Pen (green oil) 10w30 this summer (for racing).
How is it less protection in your opinion?
I`ve heard that others use it to race in their Jeep SRT8`s because during the summer months you don’t need a thin oil (0w vs. 10w) and you want to keep the oil pressure down at high load like drag racing (40 vs. 30). So 10w30 is thinner at high temp than 0w40 and 10w30 is thicker at low temp (lifters are noisy in the summer with 0w40 and headers).
Yeah, real wealth of info there!Originally Posted by JHL88
Yeah, reports are subject to interpretation all right. Even when they include an Expert Summary.
As for my judging folks on this topic, about the only thing I criticize is when people 1) change out synthetics every few thousand without having a good reason for doing so or 2) abuse their vehicles by not doing a reasonable OCI (not too likely on this forum).
Hey buddy I dont drive SRT so I am trying to say from my personal point of view.
If SRT has unique design or your got a reference from somewhere else, then you be the judge.
You mentioned 2 cases - summer and race.
You want the oil to protect your engine as soon as possible, so you should never use anything other than 0w unless manufacturer ask for it, even in summer.
Second, 0w40 are usually(not always though) thicker high performance oil which give more protection in race than 10w30 oils even coming from the same manufacturer.
40 can withstand intense pressure and heat from racing by giving lubrication your engine needs, not the 30 one.
in my MB owners manual, it says you can use 30 if you are on the street for better fuel econ,
but 0w40 filled to max is necessary if you are racing the car.
So I asked why you do it the reverse way.
For me, I use ester 0W40 in all my cars, all year round when the surrounding temperature ranges from freezing 32F to hot 113F.
have never heard any weird sound for using 40 for my cars, always smooth from idle to redline.
Hello!
My name is Dennis!
PPLd to answer your question about why he is doing it in the reverse way is actually very simple, granted I doubt he is making the power to make this even matter. Think of it like this! Does your car make more power with the AC on or off? AC off right! It is very simple, Thicker oil means more effort to push the oil through the system, thinner oil less effort creating more available hp. So long as you maintain pressure to lube the system you will be able to lubricate the engine. This has been a common practice with race cars for years but longevity is really never a concern for track cars.
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I`ll take your word for it and stick with 0w40.
What’s an MB? (Only one car comes to mind)
I`m not pro when it comes to engine oil and I haven’t made the switch yet but I do drag race my Jeep SRT8 every other week in the summer if not more. I also noticed my lifters are were getting a little louder and after installing long tube exhaust headers the valve train became really noticeable. I hit up the Jeep SRT8 forms and one of the top turbo kit builder/installer swore by Brad Pen "green oil" 10w30 (specifically), he said it will quite the lifters. He further endorsed it by saying, he uses it for every turbo build and none have had failure due to lack of lubrication.
I think groff19crx is right, that there’s something to it but the gains is negligible unless I’m racing professionally, as the guy that recommended it to me, is…
Here’s my best time slip from last year, with the DA circulated for that track on that date and time:
Sorry man I mean Mercedes Benz when I said MB.
Oh yes if you got the budget, by all means please try these oils.
It is all I use in my cars for almost a decade and ppl say they are the best out there.
I can "feel" the engine is smoother, probably due to less friction, than Mobil 1 or other common brands.
Hello!
My name is Dennis!
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Where did you find that oil?
I run Nissan Ester Oil in my 370Z, it is recommended but not required by Nissan. I tried to get in touch with Nissan to find out more about this wonder oil, I couldn`t even get an answer from them. I did a lot of research and found the oil actually has diamond particles in it. Which would be cross intuitive seeing that diamonds should wear the engine out quicker. It was explained to me at the nano level the wear is too small to make a difference. I have alway ran a synthetic oil in all of my cars, from Mobil one to Amsoil and never had any oil related problems. I`ll stick with synthetic, a few more bucks for peace of mind.
I run Amsoil Signatire Series in my 03 Cobra and am more then Happy with it . I actually run Amsoil SS in the Trans and Rear as well . Instantly felt much smoother shifting . My Cobra was in heated garage for the better part of its life , that changed 3 years or so ago . It doesn`t get driven from Nov. to April . During start ups over the winter I cringed , once I switched to Amsoil you cannot tell it has been sitting for weeks during start/warm ups through the winter months . Not even a millisecond of valve train noise . That`s proof enough for me . Personally I get all warm and fuzzy inside when I change the oil in it . It just feels Good .
Daren
I started using Rotella T5 in OPE. The biggest difference so far is T5 foams a lot more easily if you overfill.
Al
The Need to Bead
I`ve used Mobil 1 from the get go, now use RP synerlec.
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