Holy cow! Those are proper rally driving lights! What is the purpose of the bottom three light elements with the rippled optic covers? Are the lights two-stage and those are the dimmer lights, or are they simply to change a part of the light pattern?
I think you need two more...
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Ahhh, the LP9, Baja Designs flagship pod light. Boy I’d love to have a set, as a college student they are way out of my price range. Make sure you’re using the security hardware and that the brackets cannot be removed from the car without destroying or taking the car apart.
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The bottom fluted lenses help light distribution.
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Lord almighty. It`s like I stepped into the wayback machine 20 years prior.
How will it mount ?
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I was actually inspired by the old rally Volvo`s which is why I didn`t go with a modern LED strip such as Baja`s ONX6 series.
Unfortunately only two will fit with how big they are and weighing 6.5lbs each, I`m weight limited and do have a budget haha. As note the bottom are fluted for more light dispersion/diffusion even though these do have the IPT side firing leds as well. They are in fact a 3 stage light, 1st is running the ambers built in as a DRL, second is running the bottom driving lights which are around 4k lumens and finally the full stage highs activate which are for distance and bump it up to 12.5k lumens.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NSPgpvC3yc
I definitely plan on it, wave bolts all around. I`m taking zero chances with this setup. I actually picked these up open box an saved a ton, also the LP6 is now out which is way more affordable and I may personally switch if the weight on these is too much.
Exactly!
Appreciate it, I`ll definitely take a few videos an pix in the wilderness. I do take my R out to some pretty remote locations (I really do trust the car).
This will have a custom CNC billet bracket that attaches to the Rebar, which conveniently is exposed half way into the lower grill intake. My plan is to have bolt directly to it and the harness will also be wired through the lower intake as well. What`s nice is the system with the proper security keys will remove in less than 1 minute and back to summer mode/track mode.
don`t forget the vigorous use of Tesa tape to keep it OE ;-)
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Haha, YES TESA is amazing, seriously. I also got the harness from them too in the deal, I think this should be enough.
https://www.bajadesigns.com/Products...ht-max-Pro.asp
Rupes 21 MK II, Rupes 15 MK II, Rupes 21, Rupes LHR75e, Rupes Duetto, Rupes Ibrid-L, Rupes LH18ENS, Flex PE-14-2, Dodo Juice V1
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This is a good spot for quality stuff if Waytek was not on your radar
https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1406/Switches/
Heh. I`m all about stealth so power rating aside, I`d prefer a flat rocker switch either in a good spot like the cigarette ashtray or maybe even more inconspicuous under the dash (which is not so friendly on on/off) but more out of sight.
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My goal honestly is to drop in another button on the climate control module (My S60 has 3 out of 7 slots filled now the rest are blank) but with 3 settings. I don`t know if its possible. I agree though, I try an keep everything super clean, minimal and OEM at all times. Not a fan of aftermarket as far as looks.
Rupes 21 MK II, Rupes 15 MK II, Rupes 21, Rupes LHR75e, Rupes Duetto, Rupes Ibrid-L, Rupes LH18ENS, Flex PE-14-2, Dodo Juice V1
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Keeping fingers crossed it`s a small itty bitty circuit board behind that fascia
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I wonder how well a Toyota style switch would fit behind that dash fascia.... They are a dime a dozen as the aftermarket is full of options of switches for Tacoma`s. @The Driver, if a Toyota style switch works, you could probably superglue a Volvo switch faceplate.
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@TheDriver, after doing some research it looks like your climate control unit has a circuit board behind the faceplate. I`m posing the idea of adding two factory switches to that unit and repurposing their outputs for your lights. You`d mostly likely have to give the amber function of the LP9 constant power, so it would always run. High and low functions could be utilized by the added factory switches and changing their outputs somewhere in the wiring loom, ideally somewhere that there is a junction box.
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There is a circuit board board, the only thing that sucks is I`ll have to "buy" the software from Volvo via Vida to engage the button. They actually do an update an it activates the switch. There actually is an auxiliary lighting switch with software but I don`t think it`s capable of handling the output and it only works when the high beams are on so it`s only capable of two modes.
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