When I crank a cold engine it does not start and I hear a few clicking sounds. It takes another attempt or two before the engine starts. On occasion a warm engine needs a second crank. What is the cause?
I drive a 1984 Chevy Caprice Classic.
When I crank a cold engine it does not start and I hear a few clicking sounds. It takes another attempt or two before the engine starts. On occasion a warm engine needs a second crank. What is the cause?
I drive a 1984 Chevy Caprice Classic.
The battery is dated 2013.
I would check battery and connections. My car had a lose battery cable one time and did that. Then maybe starter.
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I`d check all connections. Then if it`s doing the same thing have the battery and alternator tested at the parts store.
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How long is a starter expected to last? I have nothing in my bills for that, but the alternator was replaced August 31, 2004.
Since it *does* start up normally now and then...
First I`d check the battery cables at the battery- tight, free of corrosion? Inspect the cables while you`re at it. Sometimes the cables go bad even though they look OK on the outside.
Then I`d look at the starter selenoid and its wiring connections.
Starters can last a long, long time...or they can die tomorrow. But again, that "it eventually starts OK" makes me think it`s a matter of the starter getting adequate/inadequate power *at times* and that makes me think "connections and wiring".
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I would replace the battery before doing anything else. I believe Autozone will check it for free.
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Batteries are funny things - in practice they *should* last a few years. But sometimes die early depending on how often & how far then car is driven, temperature extremes, or sometimes you just get a bad one. Good luck!
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We have had an abundance of rain in the last few weeks. Can dampness under the hood be a factor or is this just coincidence?
I agree with Accumulator. GM cars from that era had side terminal batteries, which were excellent, but had skinny battery cables, both positive and negative and attached the ground cable to the alternator bracket, rather than the engine block itself. My El Camino got traded in back in 1993 because of slow starting concerns nobody could find. The ground cable was very warm when cranking, a sign of high resistance. I replaced the ground cable with a thicker one from a GM truck, cleaned everything well, both positive and grounds and bolted the cable directly to the engine block. It`s been OK for the last 21 years, thru 3 or 4 batteries, so I think it`s fixed.
Bill
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rustychevy- Yes indeed the dampness can do that. Does make me think it just may be the cables/terminals rather than just the connection at the battery, but I`d clean/tighten/grease the battery connections first anyhow. Five minutes and practically zero cost...and hey, it`s just the first thing you try under conditions like you`ve described on a vehicle like yours.
When my Tahoe acted up a few times when starting it was the cable connection(s) at the battery. GM sidemount battery just like yours...I can almost remember which size wrench it takes (use a ratcheting one to make it easy).
Billy Jack- "Yeah, good idea if you want to do it right" on upgrading cables (do they still call it "the big 3 upgrade"?), though I haven`t done it to the Tahoe or the current Crown Vic (yet ). Eh, I`ve gotta admit I`m not a huge fan of the GM sidemount batteries, which I think all my GMs have had.
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Sounds like starter to me..
Just remember.
Die Hard batteries really do live up to their name.
Formerly the "Best Detailer", now just Super Wax Waster Man. Not necessarily tactful, but normally right. It`s good to be da King !!!
Get a DMM set it to DC Volts meter and do a voltage drop on the positive side of the circuit and the negative side Circuit. Positive side is allowed .05 drop Negative is .02 Drop.
How To Perform A Voltage Drop Test - Help With Automotive Circuit Diagnosis
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhT2cNCfTXc
This will take away guessing.
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