Alarming a vehicle w/o PDL?!

**AMDin93103** · 10-29-2006, 12:01 AM

After a second break-in attempt, I desperately need to alarm my Express. The van is pretty bare-bones, no power anything . . . just plain ol` locks. I`d rather sound like a moron here than in front of the installer. Do I need to buy the PDL motors for each door? Seems it wouldn`t be necessary. .I am just looking for security, not the convenience of keyless entry.

**Setec Astronomy** · 10-29-2006, 12:09 AM

I don`t see why you need power locks. Back in the old days the alarms were triggered by a motion sensor or the pin switch for the courtesy lights. Of course things are a lot fancier these days.

**AMDin93103** · 10-29-2006, 10:21 AM

Originally Posted by Setec Astronomy

Of course things are a lot fancier these days.

That`s what I am worried about. I can just hear it now, "Oh, you`ll have to buy a $250 motor for each door because the alarm electromagnetically interacts with the pendulums weight and if balance is compromised the audible enforcement sensor will react to the. . ." blah blah blah.

I just want to make it like an angry music box; you open it, it screams!

**Setec Astronomy** · 10-29-2006, 10:34 AM

LOL...ok, you`re talking to the wrong guy. Someone else will surely chime in.

**romar** · 10-30-2006, 12:23 PM

You do not need power door locks. Most modern alarms can be wired to the vehicle as either current or switch-sensing. Current-sensing alarms detect a change in current draw - opening a door which turns on a dome light will trigger the alarm. Switch-sensing alarms are wired to the door and trunk pin-switches. When a door or trunk is opened, a ground signal (either negative or positive) is sent back to the alarm module, triggering the alarm. IMHO, switch-sensing is preferable to current-sensing, as it`s less prone to produce false alarms.

**BobD** · 10-30-2006, 12:50 PM

Yeah, you won`t need power locks. I highly suggest you find a good 12v alarm installer and stay away from the franchise businesses. I had one of the big franchise places install an alarm for me in a 2001 Civic and the freaking Civic got broken into and they stole the freaking alarm too! I took it to a buddy of mine and he pointed out all of the dumb stuff they did to install it and how they did not hide wires and mounting location and I got stuck paying him to redo it all for me the correct way.

Also make sure they do ALL of your doors and hood. The same boobs also did my 91 Civic at the same time and the rear hatch could be opened with no alarm sounding.

**AMDin93103** · 10-30-2006, 01:34 PM

Thank you so much. Now I won`t be a moron! On my way to a local shop thats been doing work around here for about 15 years. I`ve had bad dealing with CCity. . .bad road to go down.

**fdizzle** · 11-17-2006, 02:41 AM

admin, i may be of extreme help to you here . . .have you got an alarm yet?

**AMDin93103** · 12-06-2006, 09:30 PM

To follow up. . . I had a local shop install a Viper alarm last week. The installer was very professional and thorough in explaining what he did and why. Switch-sensing on doors and such, two horns and a little blue light under my stereo.

Price was decent and I am happy. Thanks for holding my hand.

**Ceezer** · 12-06-2006, 09:58 PM

Originally Posted by Caraman

Current-sensing alarms detect a change in current draw - opening a door which turns on a dome light will trigger the alarm. Switch-sensing alarms are wired to the door and trunk pin-switches. When a door or trunk is opened, a ground signal (either negative or positive) is sent back to the alarm module, triggering the alarm. IMHO, switch-sensing is preferable to current-sensing, as it`s less prone to produce false alarms.

What good are either of these when now they bypass the doors entirely by busting out a window and crawling in/out? There were 30 cars broken into at my wife`s school and none of them sounded an alarm. There was a guy with a Tahoe on here the other day, done in the same fashion.

Maybe one of the older motion detection models would be better for warding off potential thiefs.

**AMDin93103** · 12-06-2006, 10:14 PM

Originally Posted by Ceezer

What good are either of these when now they bypass the doors entirely by busting out a window and crawling in/out? There were 30 cars broken into at my wife`s school and none of them sounded an alarm. There was a guy with a Tahoe on here the other day, done in the same fashion.

Maybe one of the older motion detection models would be better for warding off potential thiefs.

Wow, that crappy about the 30 some-odd cars. Sounds like they need some serious security.

Personally speaking, I drive a cargo van. . . three winders up front and two at the very rear. The two at the very rear have screens while the F/B is separated by a partition. . . that doesn`t move. The three windows up front obviously don`t have screens but the shock sensor on those should suffice in the same event as what went down at your wife`s school. Nothing of value is ever in the cab and nothing of real value can be shoved through my windows. I assure you that other preventative measures have been taken but this is the internet. . . can`t give all my secrets away!

**imported_Yal** · 12-07-2006, 11:07 AM

Same thing happened at my College in the 90`s. Someone broke into about 16 Nissans and swiped the airbags.

Schools/Colleges are one of the best places to have your car broken into, people are in classes and there are so many cars that if an alarm goes off it doesn`t draw attention. Its easy pickings for the small time thieves who just want to steal stereos, airbags and anything else lying in the car.

You can get glass sensors and interior radar sensors hooked up to your alarm.