Audio Options

**JeffM** · 11-14-2005, 11:49 AM

I installed a set of Polk db570`s in my pickup, running off the factory h/u. The speakers left me flat, no power to them.

I really dont want to change out the factory h/u and loose my 6disk changer, and aftermarket setups look not as good as factory, so would an amp do the same thing?

If so, what AMP? I will probably get it at Circuit city or Best Buy, probably better and cheaper at Crutchfields, but i dont wanna bring in stuff i buy somewhere else to have someone install it.

**drewski59** · 11-14-2005, 03:45 PM

An amp would be a great and cost-effective solution to your problem.

Are there just two speakers in your truck?

If so, this amp would be fine

from Crutchfield)

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-hu6lIRz...20&I=489AP1000

And if it`s a four channel setup, then this would work

also Crutchfield)

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-hu6lIRz...20&I=489AP1040

**GlossyTundra** · 11-14-2005, 03:51 PM

an amp would work better than just installing a h/u. A h/u will be needed along with an amp for optimum performance, but just an amp will be great. If you are going to circuit city, go with their kicker lineup. They are great amps at a nice price, and the specs are very conservative. I would go with somthing like a kx200.4 will put 35x4 rms to the door speakers(will be more like 50w rms). I own a profile, and while it would be better than nothing, it wont do what amps the same price will do. I have regretted buying mine ever since I got it. They are rated about 40% less than advertised. Also, dynamat your door panels along with the amp, and get a really nice bass improvement also, with no rattling.

Hope this helps any ?`s pm me.

Brandon

**Wasatch** · 11-14-2005, 05:49 PM

Alpine makes a nice little amp.

**Scottwax** · 11-14-2005, 05:59 PM

Make sure the amp has high level inputs or it won`t work with the factory HU.

My problem was the opposite although I didn`t know it at the time. My car has the factory Bose system and I really didn`t like the sound-boomy bass, midrange was too forward and muffled highs. I was going to pull my system out of my Honda (Pioneer DEH-P6400 HU, Kenwood KAC-848 4 x 50w amp, and JBL and Infinity Kappa speakers) and put it in my 626....that is, until I swapped in the Pioneer HU. Instantly, the Bose speakers and amp had a clean signal to work with and the improvement in sound was immense. So good, in fact, I never bothered to pull the amp and speakers out of the Honda.

**Dacali** · 11-14-2005, 06:01 PM

I have an Alpine MRP-F240 (40W x 4 @ 4 Ohm) powering my Infinity Reference 6.5" components and Alpine Type-S 6"x9". It works well enough for me.

If you don`t have preouts, you might want to look into David Navone LOCs. I`ve read they`re some of the best in the industry.

-Dacali

**Dacali** · 11-14-2005, 06:02 PM

Originally Posted by Scottwax

Make sure the amp has high level inputs or it won`t work with the factory HU.

Be careful in choosing an amp with high level inputs. They`re generally not as well made as a dedicated line output converter (LOC).

-Dacali

**JeffM** · 11-14-2005, 08:03 PM

Thanks fellas, the truck has 4 speakers, if i wanted to add a small sub later would a 4 chanel amp be right, or another seperate one just for the sub?

**JasonD** · 11-14-2005, 08:07 PM

If you think you will be adding a sub later, then go for a 5 channel amp, otherwise you will have to buy another amp when you add the sub. The 5 channel will save some space.

**Kanchou** · 11-16-2005, 06:45 PM

when you say `flat` what do you mean? could you elaborate?

**JeffM** · 11-17-2005, 02:08 PM

Well it is an improvemnt from my OEM speakers, but not a huge leap.

I listened to the speakers wired up on a $280 H/U at CC, and they were very nice, the sound was hitting me pretty good, if that makes sense.

A LONG time ago i had a pretty decent setup and every drum beat, everything felt like it was pounding right on my heart hahah, so i guess i need an amp, then a sub

I have the big sub from Cambridge Soundworks, moderate level suround speakers, nice HC reciever, and i can almost make my heart stop hahah, there is almost like a wind from it, its awesome.

To finish off this setup i might go with a cleansweep instead of replacing my H/U. I really cant stand the little ugly pocket in the dash, and for what,,,maybe 200 bucks more than a H/U, cant go wrong.

**Kanchou** · 11-23-2005, 06:43 PM

what kinda car is it again?

**jchetty** · 11-23-2005, 07:10 PM

Originally Posted by JBM

Well it is an improvemnt from my OEM speakers, but not a huge leap.

I listened to the speakers wired up on a $280 H/U at CC, and they were very nice, the sound was hitting me pretty good, if that makes sense.

A LONG time ago i had a pretty decent setup and every drum beat, everything felt like it was pounding right on my heart hahah, so i guess i need an amp, then a sub

I have the big sub from Cambridge Soundworks, moderate level suround speakers, nice HC reciever, and i can almost make my heart stop hahah, there is almost like a wind from it, its awesome.

To finish off this setup i might go with a cleansweep instead of replacing my H/U. I really cant stand the little ugly pocket in the dash, and for what,,,maybe 200 bucks more than a H/U, cant go wrong.

alot of times what the good h/u (not necessarily expensive just good) units offer is crossovers..that being its very hard for a two or three way speakers to duplicate low sounds (ie bass) so you limit it so it plays everything above lets say 80hz...this way you get some of the lows, but not anything that a *midrange* speaker shouldnt play...and you then you let the amp handle the lows and not the highs (<<---not always the case, enclosure and subwoofer type can alter that theory)

**Kanchou** · 11-23-2005, 07:52 PM

mm, most dedicated amplifiers have their own low-pass or high pass settings which makes this feature only useful to someone who likes to -constantly- tweak from the control unit. but it is a nice feature.