Originally Posted by drew.haynes
Absolutely not. Looks like I have a lot of camera reading to do. But I now understand with those two pics you just added. Thanks.
Originally Posted by drew.haynes
Absolutely not. Looks like I have a lot of camera reading to do. But I now understand with those two pics you just added. Thanks.
Well, brief explanation...
You need enough light to fully expose an image. How you get that light is a combination of film speed (iso), shutter speed, and aperture (f-stops). Adjusting each has possible pros and cons.
Aperture -
Measured in f-stops (f1.8, f4, f22, etc). The lower the f-stop #, the larger the aperture (the opening where light enters). f1.8 is quite a large aperture and will let alot of light in quickly. f30 for example is tiny, and won`t let as much light in at once.
A large aperture like f2.8 will produce a SHALLOW depth of field. For example, if you take a picture of a person`s face at f1.8, everything behind and in front of the focal point will blur intensely and rapidly. At a small aperture like f22, you`ll have a broad depth of field, and for example, you could have your friend in focus @ about 5 ft away, while ALSO having a mountain in focus 1 mile behind him. Make sense?
So, assuming you have plenty of light, the primary purpose of changing aperture is to adjust your depth of field. If you are confused i`ll find good example pictures. The second effect is that larger apertures let more light in, and thus you can get the same TOTAL amount of light in less time (faster shutter speeds). For example, a picture taken at f1.8 and a 1/250sec shutter speed may be as well exposed as a picture taken at f32 and a 1sec shutter speed. If you should a long shutter speed like 1sec, you`ll likely have motion blur you don`t want caused by your hand shaking, that`s why if you are shooting in lower light situations, a big aperture like 2.8 or 1 is very handy. You can use a large aperture to let you get the same light with a faster shutter and avoid hand shake!
Shutter speed-
How long does that aperture stay open? You can use a longer shutter to allow intentional motion blurring, or just if you need more light at your current iso and aperture.
ISO-
This is how fast the image sensor evaluates incoming light. Ideally, lower ISOs are always better. The higher the ISO, the faster light comes in, and therefore you can handle using shorter shutter speeds and/or smaller apertures. Also though, on the downside, higher ISOs produce more image noise.
If you have enough light, stick with the lowest ISO you can - it will produce the most noise-free images. If you are in a lower light situation and a big aperture alone is not cutting down your shutter speed enough to avoid motion blur, raise the ISO so light is evaluated faster. Now you can decrease the shutter speed some, eliminate motion blur, and the cost is just more image noise - depending on what ISO you are on.
Have any questions?
Originally Posted by evenflow
There a few things not to like about the A620 put picture quality and color fidelity aren`t among them. I`d look to your computer and monitor calibration settings for the problem. Did you run a hardware calibration of your monitor? What colorspace are you using? If not you will probably be disappointed with the results from any camera, IMO.
Good budget p&s camera from canon is a720is or SX100is. Both produce good quality sharp pictures for a point and shoot. Only thing which isn`t that good is low light performance. Noise is very visible at higher iso. Other than that it is hard to find anything really wrong.
Laptop displays are these days the worst. With most on default settings colors look washed out and the display has wrong color temp. First sign if you have a cheapest display is that the brightness changes if you slightly tilt the display. What you want from flat display is for example S-PVA panel instead of TN type. (which all of the cheaper ones are)
More explanation from here about the types:
Thin film transistor liquid crystal display - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Doubt its my monitor I have a $400 Samsung 24" with a high resolution. It`s not that the A620 is bad, its just the colors don`t seem vibrant and colorful.
Thanks for the explanation Drew I understand now.
It still can have TN type panel at that price range, some are very good though and it isn`t such a bad thing if you are happy with it.
Try playing with settings Photo Friday: Monitor Calibration Tool
Spending some time tweaking the display settings made huge difference on my laptop.
Originally Posted by evenflow
That is a common symptom of an uncalibrated display or not being aware of the color space being used. You didn`t mention if you have calibrated your monitor or which color space you are using but I`d hazard a guess the answers are; no, you have not calibrated your monitor and probably don`t know what a color space is. If this is true, a new camera will look just as dull on your system as your 620. You need to get a handle on colorspace and color management.
Here are a few links that should help:
Jeffrey Friedl’s Blog Digital-Image Color Spaces, Page 1: Introduction
LCD monitor test images
http://www.color.org/version4html.xalter
I love my Rebel XT dude; absolutely no complaints even with the kit lens. IQ is 100X better than my Optio camera and even my brothers higher MP Sony P&S camera.
Edit; Rebel XT also has a sport mode; although it would be better to adjust the shutter speed manually; it does a decent job.
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Well I doubt its my monitor.
Other camera`s pictures look absolutely beautiful and colorful. Any who enough about monitors I would rather upgrade to a better camera anyways.
The price of the XT currently makes it a good choice as well. Lots of people will buy the XT and a good lens or two over time, then really grow into photography and decide they want a big hitter like a 30D, 40D, 5D.. and you can keep your high quality lenses and upgrade bodies easy.
Originally Posted by drew.haynes
Thats what I am so amazed at.
Body only for this camera is $319, then a used 50mm runs you $70, and a 2gb flash card for $17.
$406 for a b.a Camera
Well and that lens is great for beginners because, while the build quality is low, the glass quality is unbeatable for the price. There are plenty of guys who have moved up to 5D or 40D and have $1k+ L-series lenses, but still hang on to their old 50mm 1.8
Looks like I am going to have to wait to buy.
Deal fell through on my sale for my A620, which that money would be going towards the new camera. Oh well.
How is the 18-55mm lens? Found that cam and lens for less than $400...which looks like a steal
The XT is certainly a good and very capable S entry-level SLR. My only problem with it is that it is so small and is very uncomfortable in my hand. Same goes for the XTi, XSi, and the smaller Nikons like the D40 & D60. I plan to go with a Sonly Alpha 200 sometime in the near future. It`s not a Canon or Nikon, but there are still a lot of lenses available for it and it has image stabilzation built into the body.
As for that 50mm 1.8 prime, that is a kick *** lens for the money. Friend of mine uses it for her wedding photography business and loves it. Produces some stunningly sharp images.
Originally Posted by evenflow
Something I`ve read a few times during my photography studies.....As a very general rule of thumb for rolling shots, it`s best to match your shutter speed with that of the car. For instance, if the car is going 60, try a 1/60 shutter speed.
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