Sound Deadening

[Jhony505]

I want to get some more details of this?

[AuAltima3.5]

Sound Deadening Materials for Noise Reduction from Second Skin

[Brad B]

Sound Deadening Materials for Noise Reduction from Second Skin

Which product do you use? Trying to cut engine noise and tire noise.

[Jhony505]

Dynamat is the best in terms of noise reduction

[Jhony505]

I prefer dynamat. I don`t know whether it will fit your budget.

[rdorman]

Dynamat is the best in terms of noise reduction

I, and a number of independent tests would disagree with that statement. They are the most marketed though! Dynamat does make good products. But I would still use Damplifier or Damplifier Pro over Dynamat Extreme and usually at much better price point (Second Skin offers 20% discount to certain forum members on top of that!). For a bargain mat, I use RAAMmat BXT.

[Brad B]

I have been reading many of the websites of different sound insulation manufacturers but am still confused...it seems that most tell you to apply a thin/dense mat (like Dynamat Extreme) then a thicker foam mat (like Dynaliner) What is the difference between what these two things do?



I am looking to deaden road noise but don`t have a lot of thickness I can add under the carpet and trunk areas I am looking at. Is the thinner material enough?

[schiddy]

Used damplifier pro years ago in my 2000 mustang for a SQ install. Double layered on the doors and mdf rings to mount the 6.5" components in them. After about 1-2 years the weight from the damplifier pro was either bending the hinges or pulling them out of adjustment. Doors started not latching everytime you swung them to close. Probably could have been adjusted but beware ... sound deadening with tar or butyl gets pretty heavy especially on coupes with long doors. Could even have impact on performance if you did a lot of area!



Proper cutting tools and rollers for installation save you many small cuts on your fingers. The metal backing on these things are razor sharp, think uber paper cut.

[schiddy]

I have been reading many of the websites of different sound insulation manufacturers but am still confused...it seems that most tell you to apply a thin/dense mat (like Dynamat Extreme) then a thicker foam mat (like Dynaliner) What is the difference between what these two things do?



I am looking to deaden road noise but don`t have a lot of thickness I can add under the carpet and trunk areas I am looking at. Is the thinner material enough?

Looks like Second skin is giving similar advice. I would give them a call and ask for suggestions ... seriously. Dynamat is kind of like the turtle wax of the sound deadening industry, never been too impressed. I`ve only done deadening to stop vibration from subwoofers that in turn also deadened exterior noise. Even with a single layer of butyl foil backed you`d prob notice a big difference. Second skin is saying the damplifier pro is for vibration and Luxury liner goes on top of this to stop engine noise, road noise, exhaust drone.



automotive insulation mass loaded vinyl barrier MLV

[kyled]

If you do a solid prep job, you could use Peel & Seal (the roofing material). Might require a little more research to accomplish, but I`ve heard it`s a cheap alternative to the professional stuff. One of my buddies used it for his old Camry and it worked like a charm...as far as I`ve heard.

[Ron Ketcham]

If you do a solid prep job, you could use Peel & Seal (the roofing material). Might require a little more research to accomplish, but I`ve heard it`s a cheap alternative to the professional stuff. One of my buddies used it for his old Camry and it worked like a charm...as far as I`ve heard.

David,

MY old company now offers the same product they make for Ford and Chrysler in an aerosol.

It is the product they(vehicle manufacturers tested), for years, as a sound deadener and an undercoating product.

The key is that is does not "promote" corrosion as many on the market do.

What I am saying is that most of these advertised products start to "pocket" after a year or so of being applied. The "carrier solvent" starts to evaporate from the product, it drys out and starts to "crack", create areas that corossion may enter and stay there, and since the corossive elements are held against the metal, and moisture enters, "rust" happens.

These products "dry" and "crack", leaving an enterance for corrosive salts, water, etc to get between the paint material and the metal. That action is referred to as "pocketing", and not good in the long run.

The product contains a percentage of the same rust inhibitor that stops rusting from happening.

Most of the products out there are just some by-product of an asphalt plant, which they market as an undercoating or sound deadener.

Folks can order that Ford or Chrysler product in aerosols from their local dealers or get it under my old companies brand direct from ValuGard.

They may also obtain the rust inhibitor in aerosol form from the same sources.

As you are aware, before I retired, I worked with not only these manufacturers, but others to deal with corossion issues for federal recalls and body repairs. as well as being a corossion advisor for I-CAR regarding these issues.

Just something for those who wish to have proven products to satisfy their needs.

Grumpy

[lostdaytomorrow]

Go with raammat bxt and luxury liner and you`ll be golden. Check car audio forums for further info.

[ms6zoey]

Is there a light weight solution. I have been wanting to do this for a while but afraid of the added weight. My main problem is my gas cap door, its horrible. Other parts are my doors and trunk. I have an 07 mazdaspeed6 the car is already pretty heavy so trying to make this as light weight as possible.

[lostdaytomorrow]

Unless you`re tracking it, the weight difference is unnoticeable if you do it right. The deadener doesn`t need to fully cover all panels, but the lightweight blocker does need to cover everywhere.