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  1. #1

    Join Date
    May 2009
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    I am starting to detail for profit (or at least to pay for all the detailing stuff I buy) on my days off. I have my first two jobs this Friday I was wondering if I could get some advice on speeding up my details and time saving tips for the inside and outside details.

    I`ve learned so much from reading everybody`s posts and I think I can make cars look better them most of the detailers in my area, but I need to save time so I can easily return the cars before my clients get off work. Thanks for the help, Wes



    P.S. when I do a full detail this is the process I use:

    wash with P21S

    clay with blackfire

    polish with IP and FP or DACP and #80

    seal with AIO

    SG if client wants extra protection

    top with P21S or Pinnacle depending on color



    I have a PC that I will be using.

  2. #2
    Professional Detailer
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Slinger, Wi
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    249
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    I can detail a car in about 3.5 hours. Here`s my procedure:



    Apply Stoners Tarminator to all bug splatter, tar spots, and any other areas that washing will not remove. Let soak.



    Open front door and spray degreaser in door jamb if needed and powerwash. Next do backdoor followed by trunk, moving around vehicle to other side following same procedure .



    Spray wheels and tires with tire and wheel cleaner. Clean wheels then do tires. Rinse. This includes powerwashing the wheel wells.



    Powerwash vehicle to remove loose soil, etc.



    Wash vehicle with long handled brush. All stubborn spots will be removed from the Tarminator and carwash soap. Rinse. Quickly wipe down.



    Remove floor mats and spray carpet cleaner and spot remover if needed, followed by powerwashing. Using either extractor or wet/dry vac, remove excess water and put aside to dry.



    Roll down all windows and open all doors including trunk. Wipe all door jambs and trunk jamb with either a terry towel or cheaper microfiber cloth.



    Remove all items in car (glove box, center console, etc,) and place in small plastic bags.



    Using a air compressor, blow all vents, radio controls, side pockets, rubber seals around doors, etc.



    Vacuum interior.



    Apply dressing to front door panel and using compressor, blow into all crevices. Wipe up all wet dressing which will remove 95% of all dirt and will leave the surface looking new. Continue this on every door working your way around vehicle. Don`t forget trunk.



    Remove any stains that could not be removed with the dressing and re-apply dressing to these areas.



    Move front seats forward as far as possible and repeat these steps to all applicable areas in back of vehicle. This includes seat supports mounted to floor, front seat backs if applicable, etc.



    If back seats are leather or vinyl, do same procedure.



    Move front seats back as far as possible.



    Do entire dashboard as you did in the back. This includes pedals, vents, glovebox, etc. Every square inch.



    Apply carpet cleaner to all carpeting. Apply spot remover at the same time.

    Hand brush all areas or use an orbital polisher with the brush attachment. Lightly spray hot water from extractor to all carpet and vacuum. Repeat if stains are still present.



    Repeat same procedure to all cloth seats if applicable.



    Close all windows.



    Spray door jamb boots and all exterior vinyl trim with dressing. This includes winsheild cowling, tires, wheel wells, door handles, etc. Wipe all areas sprayed including overspray on wheels.



    Buff exterior with favorite product. Apply sealant, wax, etc.



    Clean windows inside and out.



    Apply dressing to all rubber seals around doors, trunk, etc.



    Final wipe down of door jambs.



    Quick vacuuming if needed.



    Replace all floor mats.



    Put all bags in trunk.



    Your done!! I did not include claying or engine cleaning. This is something I rarely have to do. If needed, I would do both of these things at the begining of the list.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    210
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    Nice write up except this part.



    Wash vehicle with long handled brush


    I will never wash a car with a brush :nono

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    215
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    Nice write up. Lots of good advice especially doing everything on one side of the car then moving to the other. Don`t keep hopping from side to side. Also I`d avoid using a brush to wash, but that`s just a personal preference.

  5. #5

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    May 2009
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    Thanks Mark for the guide. That`s a great time 3.5 hours. Wes

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    I would look for a SMR with protection. Skip the FP or #80 and AIO. Hi temp makes one that is based on their light cut. Then throw a coat of wax on top.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    I agree with USING the long handled brush. I use a very nice boar`s hair handled brush. Cuts washing time down to minutes, saves the back and knees, and is one of the most valuable tools in my detailing arsenal. Why not use a brush? You`re gonna polish anyway. I would cut out the clay, cuz you don`t need to if you are going to polish. I would definitely seal after AIO, but I would either use a good wax or a paint sealant, but not both, unless they want to pay extra. I would also cut out one of the polishes unless you need both.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    StL.
    Posts
    91
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    Hey, I`m going to be doing some of this myself for extra $$$ when the weather gets warmer where I am. Can you guys tell me what your pricing is like and what kinds of cars you are dealing w/?



    Thanx in advance!



    Good luck fryebaby!!! Be sure to let us know how it goes and include pictures if you can! :up
    www.stlmustangs.com <--- Moderator

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Vancouver Island
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    1,104
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    fryebaby, Marks post is a good guide to the process you could follow, but I would like to mention a couple of things. First I would never use a power washer on a vehicle as this can embed some of the objects you wish to get out back into your paint. Claying the paint is a must unless it has recently beem done. Probably the most important part of the process is the polishing.

    If you don`t spend some time on this the rest of your work is for nothing. Depending how marred the surface is will depend on the polish used. then you can go on to your LSP. You my also have to tape off some of the car as well if you have to polish near any moldings. As you improve with your PC you will become faster with your details.
    2010 Nissan 370Z

    Superior Auto Care

  10. #10

    Join Date
    May 2009
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    163
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    Thanks everybody, I appreciate the time your taking to give me some guidance. I was wondering what ya`ll do for a simple wash and vac. I am charging 30 dollars and I`m washing, drying and vac the interior. I am going to pay special attention to the tires and wheels. I plan to put a coat of AIO on the wheels and a good dressing on the tires. I want to do a little extra to make my details stand out from the other detailers locally. I also plan to wipe the interior with a MF. Is this what ya`ll do for a wash/vac? Do you charge about the same? I`m doing 25 for a car and 30 for a SUV. I plan on charging about 15 more to clean and dress the interior. Of course this would be included for a full detail.

    Thanks, Wes

  11. #11
    GOT PREP? EBPcivicsi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    memphis, 10
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    3,698
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    Originally posted by DSVWGLI

    First I would never use a power washer on a vehicle as this can embed some of the objects you wish to get out back into your paint.


    How is that?

  12. #12

    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Originally posted by ebpcivicsi

    How is that?


    I agree a power washer is a huge time saver in some situations and I`ve never had a problem embedding stuff into the paint by using one.

  13. #13

    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Maryland
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    Originally posted by TDMAN

    Why not use a brush? You`re gonna polish anyway. I would cut out the clay, cuz you don`t need to if you are going to polish.


    I can`t believe I just read that.

  14. #14
    MongooseGA's Avatar
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    Aug 2004
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
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    Originally posted by General Lee

    I can`t believe I just read that.


    Beat me to it.
    -Glenn Jr.

    There is always room to learn.

  15. #15
    Professional Detailer
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    May 2004
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    Slinger, Wi
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    First of all, I use a telescoping brush I buy at Wal-Mart that can be used for autos, RV`s, boats, etc. I am very anal about keeping the brush clean before and after I wash something. I also own, and sometimes use, mf mitts and natural sea sponges depending on the vehicle I`m detailing. Most of my vehicles are daily driven, not show cars, and using the brush saves me time and my back.(I`m 6`3)

    As far as claying is concerned, I live in a rural area that doesn`t get the industrial fallout and acid rain that urban areas get. When I`m done with a vehicle, the finish is smooth as a babys butt.

    I used to use a hose before I began using the powerwasher and I can honestly tell you , I save ALOT of time and elbow grease using the powerwasher. It also saves me money because more chemicals would need to be applied to remove some of the crap. I use a 2500psi pw and have done hundreds of cars and NEVER had a problem. Common sense goes a long way on this one!

    Finally, I basically charge $40 an hour to do a full detail. Most cars start at $150 and go up from there.

    I hope I answered most of your questions. Thanks Guys!

 

 
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