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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    My father bought me the Ultimate Detailing Machine package from CMA with the promise that I detail his entire car first. It`s a black 2002 Cadillac CTS. I have 3 white pads, 1 yellow, 1 lambswool and 2 bonnets, because I purchased the optional DAP kit too. Now, here is what I plan to do tomorrow from 8:30am til whenever...



    1) Eagle One Chrome & Wire Cleaner (scrub, then spray off and dry)

    2) Eimann Fabrik Powerwash+ (it has no wax on it, CAN U BELIEVE THAT??!! Stupid old man, can`t even take care of his car, j/k )

    3) Pinnacle Polyclay (entire car)

    4) Eimann Fabrik Powerwash+ (again; wasteful step?)

    5) 3M SMR by PC using Lambswool pad

    6) Klasse AIO py PC using white polishing/wax pad (2 coats)

    7) Klasse SG using separate white polishing/wax pad (1 coat, then after 24 hours, another)

    8) EO Mag & Aluminum Wheel Polish

    9) Plexus (2 applications on all outside plastic surfaces)

    9) Vacuum car

    10) Stoner`s Invisible Glass (all windows and mirrors)

    11) Blackfire Advanced Technology Interior Cleaner OR Lexol Leather Cleaner (any suggestion as to which to choose on leather would be appreciated)

    12) Blackfire Micro-engineered Interior Protectant OR Lexol Leather Protectant (again, any suggestion as to which to choose on leather would be appreciated)

    13) Plexus (interior plastics)



    And if I have time, Meguiars All-Purpose Cleaner (diluted) for engine cleaning)



    What I would like from you guys (and soon please, as it will be tomorrow that I am doing this ) is any suggestions on application, procedure, modification of current plans, etc.... I am open to any suggestions or comments you have.



    And yes I know that this will take me all day I made 2 CDs just to listen to while I`m doing it .



    Awaiting your responses :xyxthumbs



    **EDIT**



    P.S. What would you estimate the cost of this detail to be if it were done by a professional detailing shop?
    Sean



    2009 Honda Accord EX-L

    2000 Ford Explorer XLT

    2001 BMW 330ci Convertible (gone)

    2003 Ford SVT Mustang Cobra (gone)

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Sounds good. The SMR is super mild though, so be prepared to dedicate some time there. I`ve only tried it by hand with minimal results, Where the 1z polishes did cut it by hand.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    Originally posted by jrocc1212

    The SMR is super mild though, so be prepared to dedicate some time there.


    I`m doin it by PC, which I`ve heard is great. I too have tried it by hand with, as you stated, minimal results. I`m hoping for a bit better by PC. And the paint damage on the car currently is mild, so a super mild polish is what I want... As David always says, "Always go for the least abrasive polish first. You can always go more aggressive."



    Thanks man...



    Anybody else have any comments, suggestions, changes to the order, changes to the products or ESPECIALLY a choice between the Blackfire Interior Cleaner/Protectant and the Lexol Cleaner/Protectant for leather in the Caddie? :nixweiss



    Awaiting some more responses :xyxthumbs
    Sean



    2009 Honda Accord EX-L

    2000 Ford Explorer XLT

    2001 BMW 330ci Convertible (gone)

    2003 Ford SVT Mustang Cobra (gone)

  4. #4

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    If you have any plans to do the engine, do it first. It will make a mess all over everything else.



    I would not start out with a wool pad. I have removed some very bad swirls using an orange pad, so start with the yellow.



    I don`t know if there`s too much benefit of AIO x 2.



    Sorry, I don`t use either of those for interior cleaning, so I can`t help you there.



    I would normally charge $125-150 for a job like that.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    Originally posted by ZaneO

    If you have any plans to do the engine, do it first. It will make a mess all over everything else.


    Dually noted.



    I would not start out with a wool pad. I have removed some very bad swirls using an orange pad, so start with the yellow.


    Also dually noted.



    I don`t know if there`s too much benefit of AIO x 2.


    But it couldn`t hurt



    I would normally charge $125-150 for a job like that.


    That`s it?! Jeez... I had this estimated in the $300s at least... Shows what I know.
    Sean



    2009 Honda Accord EX-L

    2000 Ford Explorer XLT

    2001 BMW 330ci Convertible (gone)

    2003 Ford SVT Mustang Cobra (gone)

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Step 4.... wasted step? It all depends. Some people like to do this, others dont. I think its unnecessary. I like to completely wash and dry the car, then spray clay lube on each section, clay the secton, then wipe dry with a mf... then move onto the next section. This is just one way to do it, I think if you are going to do the second wash, you dont wipe the residue off as you go correct?





    I think I would charge $160 for that.... I could find you someone that would charge $300 though .

  7. #7

    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Bay Area, CA
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    5) 3M SMR by PC using Lambswool pad
    I find 3M SMR to be more of a glaze than a SMR. It`s not abrasive enough to do any cutting if you want to physically remove swirls. It does have oils that AIO will take out so this step may be useless if hiding swirls is your purpose. You may want to try something more abrasive than SMR. If you have no other option, as ZaneO said try with the yellow pad. I would use it with the PC on 6.

    7) Klasse SG using separate white polishing/wax pad (1 coat, then after 24 hours, another)
    I wouldn`t apply SG with the PC...it`s a pain to take off and you`ll waste a lot of it. Apply SG using the WOWO method...it will save you lots of time.



    http://www.autopia.org/forums/showth...ght=Bill+North



    Good Luck!

  8. #8

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    AIO has a strong cleaning ability so it might just remove the layer you put on before.

  9. #9
    Pre Med Student NavindraLR's Avatar
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    i think i would charge somewhere around 200, maybe a lil less.. but thats just me

  10. #10

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    I follow this when doing a complete detail 1. Engine

    2. Tires Rims and Wheelwells

    3. Trunk

    4. Complete Interior clean/Vac/Protect

    5. Interiors windows

    6. Complete Exterior Detail



    I hate getting into the interior after the exterior detail. I just like to kick back after the exterior is complete.

  11. #11
    Pre Med Student NavindraLR's Avatar
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    yeah me too... plus the inside in my opinion requires more work and time to get it looking really good, as opposed to the exterior

  12. #12

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    So, are there any people in MI that would do all of this for $150-$200???????? These folks must work a lot faster than myself!

  13. #13

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    Originally posted by buckslayer

    So, are there any people in MI that would do all of this for $150-$200???????? These folks must work a lot faster than myself!


    When I work on other peoples cars, I go very fast. The faster I work, the more money per hour I make... and numbers get me moving .



    When I work on my own car, I go extremely slow, I have no motivation to go fast at all, and most importantly, I am very relaxed.

  14. #14

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    geez - I wouldn`t care how fast somebody worked on my car if it looked as good as when I do it myself in the end. At my speed, I think I`d make about $4/hr per detail after subtracting product costs and charging only $150:~)))



    Point about being picky on your own stuff is well taken ----

  15. #15
    My L5-S1 is killing me! wifehatescar's Avatar
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    Originally posted by buckslayer

    So, are there any people in MI that would do all of this for $150-$200???????? These folks must work a lot faster than myself!


    I`m in MI and would do something similar to the above for around that much.:nixweiss
    We can rebuild him. We have the capability to make the world’s first bionic man. Better than he was before. Better Stronger Faster

 

 
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