Finally used PC! Need Help!

**Slick** · 06-01-2004, 10:48 PM

Finally used my PC for the 1st time. I was using Scratch X. Problem: After I buffed it on there were sections everywhere of the polish that just didn`t want to wipe off unless you scrubbed with the MF. I got very aggravated. It was humid out and after a while I thought maybe it was drying too quick. I was only buffing it for a very short time and would try to remove it right away. I wasn`t directly in the sun. PLEASE help me! I am afraid to start on my next car cuz it was a pain in the *** and didn`t look too good. Sorry for the long post! Really appreciate your guy`s help. Thanks!

**andriver** · 06-01-2004, 10:55 PM

Some people have had success with Scratch X on a PC. I have not tried this method. I would recommend purchasing a good swirl remover polish such as DACP and/or SFP. Other good products are made by Poorboys, Menzerna, 1Z, etc. Good luck.

**dcswd** · 06-01-2004, 10:58 PM

From what I understand, scratch X wasnt made to be applied with the PC (although you can do it).

You could try buffing the areas that didnt wipe off with more scratch x, but do it by hand. I think that should take care of it.

**Slick** · 06-02-2004, 12:10 AM

Yeah I got some Poorboy`s and some AIO, SG, Souveran, and some Signature Series on the way. I used the Scratch X on my mother`s old, neglected car. Thanks fellas!

**imported_FordTaurus** · 06-02-2004, 07:14 PM

I`d say that the problem was the combination of not applying it for very long and then trying to remove it right away. While I haven`t used it with a PC, I`d assume you need to work it in for a little while so that it gets somewhat close to being dry like most other polishes. It should then be easier to remove. It could also have been due to the humid weather. Some other posters have mentioned having problems with Scratch-X gumming up when used with a PC. You could have been experiencing the same thing.

-FordTaurus

**imported_rusty bumper** · 06-03-2004, 01:03 AM

ScratchX is not meant to be used with a machine...It works much better by hand application alone. A person might could try the very low settings on a PC to work this product in, but that`s about it.

Try using a product like MPPC or Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner #1 with your PC to clean the paint with, after you have removed the ScratchX.

**Slick** · 06-03-2004, 11:28 AM

Thanks guys! I`m just glad it wasn`t just me! I was gettin` ticked off. LOL

**Slick** · 06-03-2004, 11:31 AM

When using a more abrasive polish is it best to follow it up with a lighter or non abrasive polish before you seal or wax. Is it totally necessary or it just makes that much better of a finish. I used the Scratch X on an old car and it made it look alot better so I don`t think i`m going to spend anymore time on it. I just put the wax to it and it looks 10x better than before.

**imported_rusty bumper** · 06-03-2004, 01:51 PM

Originally posted by Slick

When using a more abrasive polish is it best to follow it up with a lighter or non abrasive polish before you seal or wax. Is it totally necessary or it just makes that much better of a finish. I used the Scratch X on an old car and it made it look alot better so I don`t think i`m going to spend anymore time on it. I just put the wax to it and it looks 10x better than before.

Before I went to the BSP line, I used to use MPPC followed by DC#1 before waxing or polishing....I think DC#1 is a great followup cleaner.

**Slick** · 06-04-2004, 10:51 PM

So you used 2 cleaners before polishing or waxing? Or did I miss something?

**imported_rusty bumper** · 06-04-2004, 11:27 PM

Originally posted by Slick

So you used 2 cleaners before polishing or waxing? Or did I miss something?

Right...I used 2 cleaners. I thought that DC #1 really added to the gloss & depth of the finish while removing any haze left over by MPPC.

**Slick** · 06-05-2004, 12:23 AM

Kool! What is the best way to get into the small areas or certain edges and spots on vehicles. (curves, edges, etc.) Cuz I know you are supposed to try to keep it flat on the surface and it is hard to do that in certain areas. Thanks man!

**imported_rusty bumper** · 06-05-2004, 12:39 AM

Originally posted by Slick

Kool! What is the best way to get into the small areas or certain edges and spots on vehicles. (curves, edges, etc.) Cuz I know you are supposed to try to keep it flat on the surface and it is hard to do that in certain areas. Thanks man!

That`s a good question!

I try to work the PC into these areas as best as I can without making the pad come off...But inevitably, there are going to be places on a car`s body that will have to be detailed by hand.

With that said, sometimes I will add product to the outside edge of the pad in order to lean the PC into tight areas, but a machine of any kind is limited to what it can do in areas like this.

**Accumulator** · 06-05-2004, 11:02 AM

Originally posted by Slick

Kool! What is the best way to get into the small areas or certain edges and spots on vehicles. (curves, edges, etc.) Cuz I know you are supposed to try to keep it flat on the surface and it is hard to do that in certain areas. Thanks man!

As rustyBumper said, you can just force the pad in there. Since the PC is so gentle, it`s not a big deal if you don`t keep the pad flat. I end up using a larger-than-normal pad (for me that means a 7.5" one) and just force/deform it into where ever I`m trying to polish. I`ll also use the edge of the pad, using a little caution and common sense.

Unless you`re dealing with very thin/very soft paint and an aggressive pad/product combo, the PC isn`t all that likely to do damage the way a rotary can.

And FWIW, I always follow any aggressive work with a milder combo. I hardly *ever* do only one polishing step unless I can get by with a mild product on a polishing pad. If I`ve used a cutting pad, then I`m gonna follow up with something milder, period.

There are a *lot* of good polishes out there, and they are all subtly different. If you aren`t getting the results you want with the ease you`d like, try something else.