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  1. #1

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    I just picked up a new (to me) 1999 Honda VFR and while it`s in pretty good shape, it does have tons of swirls and small scratches from the previous owner. That an about 1/2 a can of simonize wax residue in all the nooks and crannies (and on a motorcycle there a lots of those). When I went to look at the bike the first time, the owner had the cover half off and was applying wax in an effort to "clean it up".



    So I have a few questions:



    1. Cleaning - Not too dirty, the wheels are the worst off, but still not bad. I was going to to the wheels with EO A to Z, the body work with GC. What should I use on the engine/frame/swingarm?



    2. Paint Prep - The tank is steel, painted and clearcoated, sounds to me like any other car panel....got the procedures for that down pat. What about the bodywork? It`s plastic (ABS), painted and most likely not clearcoated. Should I treat it like regular paint?



    Bodywork seems smooth should I bother with claying?



    I was planning to remove most of the fairings hit everything with some DACP by hand. Will probably take a few applications to get it to an acceptable level.



    3. Protection - What would you protect it with? I have S100, Einzett Glanz, Klasse Twins, and some other cleaner waxes (mother`s, meguiars, etc). I was thinking about going with the Twins.



    4. Plastics - Lots of swirls on the plastic windscreen guages, etc. Will probably try novus system as I can get it locally at the harley shop. Any other suggestions?



    Thanks,

    Michael





    Here are a few pics:








  2. #2

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    Here is a link to a good article HOW TO motorcycle detail:



    http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/?page=cycle

  3. #3
    2wheelsx2's Avatar
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    Nice bike! :xyxthumbs (I had a white `93 VFR about 7 years ago)



    Today`s ABS bodywork is usually clearcoated also. I guess once you hit it with DACP, you`ll know.



    A little tip on the cleaning. Clean and lube the chain first, otherwise the splatter is going to mess up the whole bike. I found out how far the splatter goes on the white VFR!



    WD40 seems to be the best solvent for cleaning the chain AND the wheels. I know, I know...lots of people think it`s a lube, but it`s most a solvent. Spray liberally on the chain when the bike is on the center stand, use a soft toothbrush to loosen up any stubborn crud, and when everything is satisfactory, wipe down with a clean rag soaked with WD40. At this point, I`ll actually wash the chain down to get rid of the excess solvent. Wipe chain dry, then go for a short ride to warm it up. Then lube with a chain wax, or a non-flinging lube like PJ1. If you are using chain wax, you have to let it set up for an hour or two, or it`ll fling. That`s why it`s always best to lube the chain at the end of a ride instead of at the beginning.



    Now you can go over the wheels with a WD40 soaked rag. Don`t get any on the brakes, or you`ll be in for some excitement!



    I wouldn`t use EO A2Z, as they seem to recommend using that cleaner on bike aluminum wheels. I think the WD40 is your best bet. I think they are powder coated black, so I would follow up with a sealant like Klasse or #20 afterwards, so that your next cleaning job is easier.



    I haven`t tried it myself, but Scottwax highly recommends S100 total cycle cleaner for the frame and all the metal parts. Up to this point, I had always used WD40 for the greasy parts, and carsoap for everything else. You`re going to have to get a toothbrush into a lot of the small places.



    I would not bother claying the bodywork myself, as a bike is different than a car, and you`re going to be constantly touching the paint work to ride it, but YMMV.



    I have never taken my PC to the bike, as I find it awkward for most places because of its size. One thing to remember though, is because of the flexibility of the bodywork, to prop it up so that when you are applying pressure (by PC or by hand), that it doesn`t keep flexing away, or worse, crack.



    I would use the Klasse twins topped with wax myself. Currently, on my two bikes, I have #7 topped with #26 on one, and AIO topped with Platinum UPP on the other (My track bike).



    Anyway, enjoy racking up the miles on that sweet machine. Especially with that nice Corbin seat!

  4. #4

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    a lot of people these days recommend just using wd-40 as the chain lube as well. i use a spray-on lube, but i think i might just use wd-40 alone. waxes seems to attract and hold dirt a lot more.

  5. #5
    2wheelsx2's Avatar
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    With O-ring chain, lubes are not as important, I agree. However, if you live in a wetter climate like I do, the chain will rust, and the chain wax prevents that. It also makes the chain quieter, I find, and I like that. If you don`t overdo it, chain wax isn`t really that sticky after it sets up.

  6. #6

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    Did a test with DACP on the solo seat cowl (not in pics, won`t fit with the corbin seat) and it`s definitely not clear coated. Pink terry towel. Got all the swirls out, but now the scratches look worse. I`ll probably be able to get rid of most of them and minimize those that are bad. Looks good so far though.



    Working on these smaller, oddly shaped, flexible plastic pieces is so much more difficult than solid, steel panels that are mounted. It`s tough to get any good pressure and not move, flex, flip, or crack the plastic. As 2wheels suggested, supporting each panel from the back works best.



    As for chains, on my past bike, when it was time to lube (every 300 miles or so), I always cleaned with wd40 before a ride and then chain wax when I got home. I don`t put on a ton of miles, but this method has seemed to work for me.



    Thanks agian for all the advice. I think I`m going to try the twins topped with S100. I`ll keep you posted with the results when I get the chance to do the work. Looks like riding is going to cut into my autopia time.......Sooooo nice out!!!



    Michael

  7. #7

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    when i first got my falco, i managed to get a few coats of klasse on there and it looked great.












  8. #8
    2wheelsx2's Avatar
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    Woohoo! Nice Falco!

  9. #9

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    Just FYI for the next time you wash it...use S100 Cycle Cleaner. Spray it on, hose it off, dry and your bike is CLEAN! It is safe for use on all bike surfaces, including the seats.



    Sounds like you have a good game plan to spruce it up.
    www.scottwax.com

    Certified Opti-Coat Pro/Pro 3 installer

  10. #10

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    Originally posted by 2wheelsx2

    Woohoo! Nice Falco!
    thanks, it`s since been sold. this replaced it:




  11. #11
    2wheelsx2's Avatar
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    Holy cow! What is it? Looks kind of familiar. Did you modify an old race bike? Not anything close to what we can get here in Canada. Nice Ohlins fork!

  12. #12

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    it`s an aprilia tuono. new model. it`s essentially a naked version of the mille.

  13. #13

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    Hey, stop showing me up with pics of bikes better than mine (j/k)!!!!



    Seriously, nice bikes. Aprilla makes some ridiculously hot bikes, but they were way out of my budget. When I knew I was in the market for a new bike I went to stop by the only area Aprilla dealer because I heard they give test rides. When I got there, it had apparantly closed up shop...after only a year or two. Guess sales weren`t so good.



    Michael

  14. #14

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    Try some SOWCO degreaser. It is non caustic and removes grease as well as any cleaner with less mess because it hoses right off. I do not remember the active ingredient but it works!



    Also remember DO NOT wax or seal chrome.



    Ryan

  15. #15
    2wheelsx2's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Ryan

    Also remember DO NOT wax or seal chrome.


    Huh? I had never heard this one before. I can see not using an abrasive or a cleaner wax, but why not seal or wax it?

 

 
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