Trouble with #7

**smdetail** · 09-04-2003, 10:35 PM

I bought a new bottle of #7 recently and is facing difficulty in removing the product haze completely. I`m using Meq`s Ultimate Wipe but there`s always product stains left over despite repeated rubbing. I have followed Mike`s instructions but it didn`t improve. I have tried letting it dried completely first before removal but it also didn`t improve. I`ve even tried the suggestion of spraying on the panel with distilled water first before application but it didn`t worked either. I am on the verge of giving up hope on #7. Just wondering if there`s any final suggestion to try before i gave it up.

**crooper** · 09-04-2003, 10:37 PM

i had similar trouble with #7. it doesn`t seem as user friendly as other meguiar`s products. when i emailed them about it they said to remove it before it hazed, but i think users on this board have heard conflicting/incorrect information from their customer service. since i`ve switched to sealants i don`t have to think about it anymore. mine`s still sitting on my shelf.

**Deanski** · 09-04-2003, 10:54 PM

Are you referring to this link?

Mike Phillips on Megs #7: Megs #7 info from Mike Phillips

Yes it`s oily for a glaze.

Regards,

Deanski

**Scottwax** · 09-04-2003, 11:03 PM

Switch to Meguiars Hand Polish from their Body Shop Pro line. Much more user friendly. .

In fact, you can use Machine Glaze #3 by hand and I think it outperforms #7 and wipes off much more easily.

**smdetail** · 09-05-2003, 10:48 PM

Deanski, the link on #7 info from Mike is correct.

Scottwax, thanks for the tip about Hand Polish. I also did a search on it and general concensus is that Hand Polish is good. I`m planning to try it soon.

Yesterday, i give #7 a fourth time trying because i don`t my new purchase to go to waste. It`s very frustrating and tiring to remove the residue. I had to give up.

**billg71** · 09-05-2003, 11:10 PM

I put #7 on with the PC and a buffing pad and haven`t had any problems with removal/smearing. I use just a very light coat, though. Follow up with a MF and it`s gone.

Topped with a coat of Gold Class, it looks awesome on black. Actually, it looks awesome even before the GC! I`ve done my Blazer and a friend`s black Avalanche and it is something else!!!

I`m just waiting for a couple free days to have my hood re-painted (hood makes a great blueprint table and staples are Not a Good Thing for clearcoat) and the rest of the car buffed out then Sal`s kit comes off the shelf...

Bill

**Maxtorque02** · 09-05-2003, 11:35 PM

I`ve used the #7 with surprisingly good results and had no problems removing it. I`ve also read from others on here of having trouble removing it. I don`t know if I have just been lucky, but I will do a panel or two at a time and remove it with a microfiber towel. I also put it on with thin coats and never let it haze over. I have followed it up with S100 and got a great shine out of it. It does seem to be a pretty finicky product though.

**smdetail** · 09-06-2003, 01:33 AM

I`ve pretty much read most of the threads on #7 in this forum. Seem that some find it difficult to remove while others find it ok. Just don`t understand it. My paint is clear coated but label on the bottle says ok for clear coat. Don`t know what is the reason for the different results.

**JustinR32** · 09-06-2003, 11:39 AM

I put #7 on with the PC and my softest pad, at a "1" setting. I do 2 panels first, then remove one, do one, etc. so one is always "drying". To remove, I work slowly with a clean soft terry towel, typically a Koala towel. Wipe slowly, evenly and firmly. Turn the towel and mop up any remaining. You can finish with a MF afterwards, but usually you are waxing next, so don`t fuss if you don`t get it all. Apply your wax over the residue. It will go away when you buff off the wax, it`s just oil.

Tom

**Tim Lingor** · 09-06-2003, 12:06 PM

Hey,

Are you pre-cleaning the surface first with something like #9 Swirl Remover? If the surface has not been cleaned, you will find it more difficult to remove. Second, make sure that you apply it in very thin coats. Follow Mike`s advice to the letter and you should not have problems. Just make sure to clean the surface first.

Tim

**smdetail** · 09-08-2003, 02:07 AM

2hotford, thanks for the suggestion. I did do the surface prep before #7 and then follow with wax.

While researching on #3 and #81 as suggested by scottwax, i found an interesting old thread that discussed about Mequiar`s pure polishes. I`ve marked the link below:

Meguiar`s #7 vs #3

**JustinR32** · 09-08-2003, 08:08 AM

I have #7 and #81. I was having trouble with the #7, got the #81, then read Mike`s post about using #7. Now it`s one of my favorite products; I haven`t used the #81 yet, the #7 works fine.

I have a single stage paint, so YMMV.

Tom

**Er31204** · 09-18-2003, 08:11 PM

How long do you use the PC on the panel for? I`ve also had trouble removing it, and am wondering how long you work it in for... you work it in on the lowest setting, or do you speed up? From watching David`s video on the Porter Cable I thought you speed up until the product almost disappears.

I`m using a DeWalt DW443 and managed to break the backing plate the other day. The backplate design doesn`t appear to be very good...

**stuart hicks** · 09-19-2003, 10:20 PM

whoever said to leave the residue on and wax over it is right.

This product doesn`t break down completely without using a rotory. If you just wax right over it the wax will remove the residue.

**weedsnager** · 09-19-2003, 10:30 PM

the first time i used #7 it was pretty humid out and it was a bear to remove. the second time i applied it, it was a much cooler day, with less humidity, came off just fine