If you haven`t read it alread, I`m posting my Klasse instructs. It`s pretty much what I (myself) recommend and I think it works rather well for newbies. That doesn`t mean to go against or to put down others` methods, it`s just the way that I`ve personally found and recommended doing so. [I`ve added to it and made it autopia appropriate]









And while applying Klasse isn`t rocket science, it does take some effort, time, and patience in order to achieve the best shine possible. On a unclean car I would give my self probably a good 3-5 hours. In reward, the shine (with regular washing will last up to 9 months or more. With Klasse, the ends do justify the means, so lets get started.





A typical Klasse application is about 1 coat per ounce. Someone who is used to the product may get double the coats you might, the first time. On my car, I got a coat of SG in about 1/2 an ounce (this is partly do to paint prep, the smoother your original finish, partly due to the AIO and other paint prep, the thinner you can spread the SG)



Recall that you might want to take some before pictures before beginning.



Step 1 - Prepare Your Car



Thoroughly wash your car. Try to get off as much visible dirt contaminants as possible. As part of the paint preparation you may want to use products such as tar removers, clay bars, and swirl removers, etc. Your car should look as good (clean) as it can without wax on it before you start. Wash the wheels as well especially if you choose to Klasse your wheels (a must on painted wheels). Dry the car with a plush microfiber towel no quick detailer. Your car doesn`t need to be fully dry as AIO can be used with slight moisture to aid in working it in.



Step 2 Apply the AIO



- Take your microfiber applicator and go to the sink and rinse it with water, wringing it a few times. Then wring it to get the most of the water out.



- Shake the bottle well and put a dime amount on the applicator. You may just want to put the applicator on the bottle opening and turn it over a few times. (you may need to "load" your applicator so that you can get an ample amount and then add dime amounts after that)



- Work the AIO into the paint with side by side slightly overlapping sweeps (usually In the direction of how air would flow if your car were being driven) Work one panel at a time using a fair to light amount of pressure and concentrating on problem areas like spots or tar.



Here`s my favorite panel order: hood, trunk, roof, front, upper side, back, upper other side, lower side, other lower side. Panel order is important in that you don`t want to possible contaminate the best parts of your car from the ones that get the most dirt and grime.



Important: Remember this is not like a wax; it takes an extremely small amount of the stuff to get good results. You are not looking to get a thick haze or a waxy surface like you would from a product at the autostore.





If the applicator visibly dirty quickly, rinse and wring it in the sink right away (you may need to rinse and wring the applicator after every panel. Work around the car doing the all the panels). The advantage to having light colored applicators is that you can easily detect the dirt to be rinsed.



Note: You have about 1 ounce for the whole car. A good tip is to transfer Klasse into smaller 2 oz bottles. As you get halfway though the car you should be only through Ă‚¼ of the bottle. Many of us use 1 or 2 oz bottles to help us gage the amount we are supposed to use, so don`t feel you are skimping.





- Clean your towel again and repeat around the whole car and any extra amount will be used for windows or wheels if you like. (Rinsing the applicator again as you go and working on long slightly overlapping motions, etc) Concentrate on smoothing out the "rough" spots and visible contaminents (it might be a good idea to see if you are rubbing too hard as different clearcoats have different hardnesses. )



Also: After you are finished add a little water to your towel and clean all the windows (using the AIO residue on the towel or adding a little more) and that`s all that`s needed for windows.



Take a 10 minute break.



Now go back and repeat working in the AIO (rinsing and wringing the applicator beforehand and as necessary). It should go by quicker. Be sure to follow panel order.



Wait 20 minutes.



-Take a soft plush microfiber and wipe off the residue left by the AIO. At this point the paint should be smooth as butter, without visible residue (if you really need to sprinkle some water on your towel before buffing in order to remove any slight haze) You can also use a spray bottle of distilled water (no minerals) to aid in removal. I prefer not to use QD for Klasse removal. Klasse bonding is a polymerizatio reaction. Adding other chemicals might hinder the reaction. Granted people have tested all sorts of QD`s and have had success, but you have no way of telling if the shine you are getting is from the wax in the QD or from the acrylic polymer that you are bonding to your paint.



So okay that was a long Step 2 but you`re almost there, take a break if you like (you can save the SG for another day, assuming you car stays clean and dust free). You will have to wash if you cannot store it in a garage etc.



Step 3 The Sealant Glaze



The SG does not contain water, it`s super concentrated and is meant to be applied by a dry applicator (either an microfiber applicator (remove label first) or a sponge (preferred). The first coats may seem a little "dry" but as you continue to use the same part of the sponge (the sponge or microfiber applicator will soak up some SG), so it will just glide on.



Shake the bottle - apply a dime (or just put the applicator on top and turn it over) to your dry sponge applicator and apply the SG in shorter strokes starting with the hood (and continuing on with the panel order). You may need to slightly load your applicator but basically you`re going to slightly glaze (and I mean slightly) to where it starts to get drier and then add dime amounts to the sponge slowly covering more area.



You don`t need to follow panel order (because you`ve polished your car twice already) but it`s good practice.



IMPORTANT: The amount of SG applied will look very thin. It will barely glide on, almost like you are applying it until it disappears (but try to move to a different spot and just let a little residue stay). Do not intend on it looking like a wax as it slightly hazes on your car. Remember your goal: 1 oz per coat following panel order. Apply as much as you would lip balm on your lips, ie sparingly (you should barely see it almost like a fine spider web but it should be wet while applying) Yes! we can`t stress this enough.





It`s time for a break. Wait at least 20 minutes for the Klasse to dry and "cure" somewhat.

Take a soft plush microfiber cloth and buff off the SG. Again use distilled water to aid in removal as needed. You can even use your breath. Slightly breathe on the car till you see the fog and wipe off stubborn areas (not recommended). Buy an empty spray bottle and spritz the car and buff with the towel.



Note: If it takes a lot of effort, you put on too much SG and need to put less on the next coat. After drying there should be a slight haze, not like your typical wax job. Much less of a haze.



Also: Many have discovered that successive coats of SG are better applied over time then right away. At this point you may wish to wait until the following day (or week) to apply the second and final coat of SG. Please only do this, if you intend on keeping the car in a dust free garage environment overnight (you will need to rewash you car if you don`t with a non-wax stripping wax) otherwise. Klasse cures fully in about 24 hours. You will notice that your car actually gets shinier over the span of a week (or maybe it`s just a placebo effect, see for yourself). Klasse can be layered consecutively, but again 24 hours provides the best layering posibble. It`s the difference between make the current layer thicker by adding more or by letting the first layer cure then adding a second cured layer on top (the latter is definately more effective) and that leads to a better shine and longer protection.



Now just sit back relax and take the "after" pictures to show off to your friends referring them to my site to get their own Klasse, of course. Also remember that microfiber is the best way to keep you "Klassed" finish pristine. Wash you car almost weekly, dry it with a microfiber towel, and give it a final dry with some quickdetailer.



You may also with to top your Klasse with a carnauba wax (waiting 24 hours is the best). Many people have had tremendous success with adding depth (and added protection and water beading) to their Klassed finish. My favorite is 100 Grand Blitz Wax. Many others have tried 3M, Pinnacle Soverign, PS100 or any other carnauba based paste wax. The only thing you have to keep in mind is that you don`t use a cleaner wax or a polish. This will remove all your hard work and you definately don`t want that.



Happy Detailing :wavey