dillema about rustproofing and engine cleaning...

**chip douglas** · 07-31-2003, 08:02 PM

dillema about rustproofing and engine cleaning...

I`m in Canada, and winter here is hell, so i have my car rustproffed each and every year, yet today opening my hood, i got hit by this : i`ll have my car rustproofed in october, and the painted areas in the engine bay, has rustproof, so what to do ? Sorry if this sound silly but it is a real dillema, unless there s something which i have forgotten to include in my reasonning of course, that s why i ask you guys, as some of you too have winter in some parts of the united states.

Also, am i the only one to have rust (very very little though) on some parts surrounding the engine ? I find despte all my endeavors to avoid them that it s real hard, and many of those pieces cannot be dismantled unless by a mechanic(i wouldnt want to damage anything, and also there are specific torques to be applied when re-installing) thos areas/metal pieces are for the majority quite hard to even be reached by hand or with a brush, so tell me if there s better to do than applying WD40 or something like a sticky grease that will not wash away, to stop the rusting process.

I was looking at those two pieces after diner, not so long ago, in desperation, as i would very much like to make em better but they re so inaccessible.

please help, mind you i might be going overboard with this, at least i think i am

take care

**chris0626** · 07-31-2003, 10:40 PM

Chip Douglas, it sounds like maybe you meant to attach some pix, but if so, they didn`t come in here? Want to try again? Or give a better verbal description of what you`re seeing?

**chip douglas** · 07-31-2003, 10:53 PM

Humm well Lynn, i don`t actually have a digicam, i guessi`ll go with the verbal description.

when i said metal pieces, i meant just that *metal pieces*

lol

More accurately, on my Toyota(corrola) there are these two parts at the from of the engine, where the four-in-one piping sticks out.......the parts that im talking about are located behind the four-in-one pipe, they re recessed, and even with a brush they would be hard to reach, thus my desperation. One piece, is supporting a sensor(this entire piece of about 1 inche X 3.5 inches, is rusted)........the other one is pretty close to the latter. It is about 3 inches away but this time it is a very small metal pipe that goes down and hook into the block(dont know what it does though)...............to wrap it up those two hard to reach pieces are really rusted, but they re about the only ones that are.

Oh i forgot to add that the first metal supporting piece i discusssed is welded to some stainless or chromed pipe too. I guess it would be removed but, and i could prolly do on my own, but much to my own risk, as when you put parts back on proper torquing is needed, and i dont have the torque charts..............all in all it seems very complicated, but rust creeps under my skin a lot.

So i could either paint em but even if i did i would first have to clean em, and even that if you were here would seem like a mountain............so i guess the only way to go would be to spray WD40 to stop the rusting process in it`s track.

Best regards Lynn

:wavey

**shaf** · 08-01-2003, 01:08 AM

I`m not sure what I`m doing here since I don`t do much engine detailing :p but it would probably help if you knew what these parts on the engine were near or what they were. It almost sounds like you`re describing something that sits behind the exhaust manifold at the front of the engine compartment, this being a transversely (sideways) mounted motor. Sometimes the exhaust manifolds or parts near them are more sensitive to corrosion because the manifold gets so hot.

I`m not sure if WD40 is necessarily the best thing to use to stop rust (someone chime in here please), as it`s mainly a penetrating lubricant and pretty runny. I`d look for some other product that is specifically a rust inhibitor spray. Shouldn`t be hard to find one. Keep in mind that oils (like in WD40) and some greases actually evaporate, and being near the hot exhaust manifold will make speed this process up.

Some items under the hood can be removed and replaced without any specific torque required, but if you don`t know what things are and know what you`re doing it`s best to leave things alone...

**tetz** · 08-01-2003, 08:15 AM

I use a product called Formula3000 from CorrosionFree.

They`re in Canada. Feel free to PM me for more info.

regards

JonT

**chip douglas** · 08-01-2003, 08:59 AM

One thing you should know is( and i had forgotten to include that detail yesterday) on my car (toyota corrola) the exhaust manifold is reversed, meaning it is facing the dashboard so to speak, where in most cars, it usually is facing the radiator just so you can situate yourself here. So the part i`m describing is behind the intake(i guess that`s what its called, sorry im not that good at describing parts on an engine)......one of the part im talking about is sort of looped round(welded to it) a stainless steel pipe, which itself ends up with a flange connecting to the base of the block.......that s the best i can say.......i think ill get a digicam lol. :nixweiss .....the other small diameter pipe also connects into the base of the block but actually hooks up a bit above the first one(first part i described).

Ciao

**ntoddalbert** · 08-01-2003, 09:39 AM

Maybe a Dingo Ate your baby?

**Accumulator** · 08-01-2003, 12:01 PM

Chip Douglas- OK, I`ll take a stab at this. I encounter stuff like this all the time, especially on the `84 Volvo (outside 24/7/52, driven primarily in winter, etc.). Two approaches come to mind, one expensive, but simple and good, the other much cheaper, but harder to do and a REAL compromise (but a lot better than nothing).

Expensive: Get new replacements for the parts in question. Have them powder coated (or something similar). Have a mechanic install them. Maybe spray them with oil during the winter and clean them off (see below) come spring.

Cheap: First clean the parts with a degreaser/engine cleaner/solvent. Either just spray it on as best you can or use long handled swabs/brushes/whatever works (from Griot`s, Eastwood, others) to apply the product and to scrub. Using the same long handled things, arrest the corrosion with a rust converter (I like Rust Avenger). This will dry black/VERY dark green. Paint (again, with the swabs) if desired.

I`ll soon be experimenting with a product called Calyx, made primarily for exhaust manifolds. Lynn has had good results with it and we`ll see how it works for me. This might be another way to do the "cheap" method.

**chip douglas** · 08-03-2003, 11:09 PM

Hum i admit the rust converter thing, is a a good idea, i`ll go get some on the way back home tomorrow...........thanks for the tip Accumulator :xyxthumbs

take care :wavey

**imported_phareous** · 08-03-2003, 11:52 PM

The exhaust manifold cover in my 98 honda accord has rust spots on it...this is the only place in the engine that has it. I wonder if Calyx might work? It says it is made for cast iron. I`m not so sure the exhaust cover in my Honda is iron...its nice and shiny silver. Of course it could just be plated. I`m a little afraid to sand to find out as I might make it look worse.

**Accumulator** · 08-04-2003, 11:10 AM

phareous- I`d bet that the exhaust manifold on your car IS iron (not that I know Hondas..

). The silver coating is probably starting to fail (no big surprise, back in the day my CRX`s always had rusty exhaust manifolds). Not having tried it, I THINK the Calyx would leave a color (like dark gray) that would NOT blend/go with your silver.

Wanna REALLY do it right? Pull the manifold, have it blasted and high-temp coated (NOT painted). Then it`ll be fine until the first chip happens.

**shaf** · 08-04-2003, 02:03 PM

Since it sounds like Calyx is one of those phosphoric acid based rust converters I`m going to GUESS that it may not be good to use on exhaust manifolds anyway. My old bottle of Extend said something about not being suitable for high temperature surfaces like that.... I`m not sure why though, and if you could just paint over the stuff with exhaust manifold paint and it`d be fine or not. :nixweiss

**imported_phareous** · 08-04-2003, 02:11 PM

Originally posted by Accumulator

phareous- I`d bet that the exhaust manifold on your car IS iron (not that I know Hondas.. ). The silver coating is probably starting to fail (no big surprise, back in the day my CRX`s always had rusty exhaust manifolds). Not having tried it, I THINK the Calyx would leave a color (like dark gray) that would NOT blend/go with your silver.

Wanna REALLY do it right? Pull the manifold, have it blasted and high-temp coated (NOT painted). Then it`ll be fine until the first chip happens.

Well what I had done is bought some new bolts (the current ones rusted) and some high-temp silver paint (says its ok for engine). I was going to sand it/wet sand it and repaint and then put it back on.

The problem is I would have to let the car sit for a day or so (since the cover gets so hot) and then not drive it while I sand and let the paint dry, etc. so I would not be able to drive it for a couple of days (plus getting the bolts torqued properly). I guess the car could be driven without the manifold cover (it looks cosmetic to me) but I`d rather not chance it.

**Accumulator** · 08-04-2003, 03:35 PM

phareous -Sorry, I read your first post on this topic carelessly! Your`e talking about the manifold COVER, not the manifold! OK...

Is your high-temp paint for ENGINES or for HEADERS? I`d guess that engine paint WON`T work out, due to the (really) high temps. Header paint WILL work. It`s preferable to cure it in an oven, but the manifold`s heat should cure it OK too.

Keep an eye on those new bolts, lest THEY rust too.

4DCS- The Calyx is MADE SPECIFICALLY for exhaust manifolds and has been popular for a LONG time. It should be OK. Not sure you can paint over it though. Many surface coatings (paint, etc.) need a certain type of surface to bond right, and high temps just make them even more particular.

On a similar tack (acid-based rust treatments), back in the `70`s I just brushed some Navel Jelly on my Dodge`s exhaust manifolds after wire brushing the worst of their rust. Wiped them down a BIT after a few hours, but not too well at all. Fired the car up with the hood up and pointed a big shop fan at the engine compartment in case of awful fumes (didn`t notice any that I recall). Let the Navel Jelly cook off, leaving a gray surface (with some black and white areas too, and a little remaining rust, looked better than it sounds). The manifolds stayed grayish for the rest of the time I had the car (a year or so). Sure wasn`t perfect, but it looked a lot better than the rusty-crusty they were before.

**explorer** · 08-04-2003, 04:14 PM

:ca

Chip; I live in Canada also , I do not know much about engines but I do have some advice for you.

This is what I do to my cars;

Every year they get rust proofed just like your car;:up

I detail my engines twice a year , and keep them rust free by spraying them with a spray called T40 from "Krown" every time after detailing

I get this spray for free

since I do the rust proofing there, I do ask for it though they do not normaly give it away.

Excellent stuff works great for me.

WD40:nono it evaporates to fast leaving no protection.

Hope this helps good luck :ca