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  1. #1
    Spilchy's Avatar
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    My neighbor wants me to detail his classic 1960 something white, original paint Mercedes tomorrow.



    He displays it at shows and the last detailer he had stripped the coating off his wheels! :scared I didn`t ask questions! (he got it fixed).



    So I am armed with Pinnacle car wash, GEPC, #7 (or IHG), P21s carnuba and Pinnacle Crytsal Mist. I am bogged down with PakShak MF`s too. This will be done all by hand



    HOWEVER, I haven`t seen it yet, so I don`t know its condition. He said he`ll take it out of the garage tomorrow morning. Since he displays it every year, I am certain it is nice shape.



    My question is, what if there a swirls or scratches that the GEPC won`t be able to take care of? Can I use #9 with my PC and a white CMA pad? I ask only because it is the original paint. I have VM too, but it seems a little too harsh for the old paint. What would you guys use?



    Also, since it is original metal too, I am NOT using any sort of chrome polish. Instead, I am using #26 (again assuming it is in good shape).



    Any help regarding detailing a classic would be helpful. :xyxthumbs
    Seth

  2. #2

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    I highly doubt Vanilla Moose would be too harsh, I think #9 is more abrasive.



    I once detailed a 58 Edsel that had that had been repainted in the early 80s with a single stage paint job and I was using Meguiars products exclusively then. DACP, Swirl Free, Hand Polish and #26 did a fine job.



    Honestly, without seeing the car in person, it is hard to say exactly what you will need to do.
    www.scottwax.com

    Certified Opti-Coat Pro/Pro 3 installer

  3. #3

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    This is where a paint thickness gauge comes in handy as it would be good to know where the paint is thin. Original paint is original only once so you don`t want to buff thru a thin spot and cause a repaint.



    Inspect the car carefully and ask the owner if he`s aware of any paint flaws or thin spots. Beyond that I think you can be as aggressive as you want. The paint on those old cars was heavy enamel or lacquer. Where there is plenty of paint on the car, it will be thick!! You can use pretty aggressive polishes with no real problems. Scott`s product suggestion would work great, IMO. Especially with a PC.



    The parts that look chrome probably are. Stuff like chromed-look plastic didn`t exist back then. On bumpers I`d start with steel wool and chrome polish and protect with wax. The stainless trim will look great after some polishing too.



    Have fun. Those old cars are a blast to detail.
    There are only three things you need to know about me. Gloss, Gloss, GLOSS!!

  4. #4
    Spilchy's Avatar
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    Thanks, I appreciate the input. I`ll take the VM along with me. Like I mentioned, I haven`t seen it, but knowing my neighbor, it`s in fine shape.



    What do you guys recommend on the exterior metal which is original? Unfortunately, I only have EO Mag-Chrome-Aluminum Polish. Is that ok? I`m going to top with #26.



    Again, my only concern is doing something too harsh. I have all the product, solid knowledge and good experience. I just haven`t worked on an original classic.



    I psyched to do it simply because my neighbor is a real nice fellow and I feel comfortable with him. It`ll be great experience and a confidence booster - hopefully he`ll recommend me to his show buddies!
    Seth

  5. #5

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    Sounds fun, Spilchy! Since I have a couple of old `75 cars, I can provide a little advice. -- Not about the paint, though, since both my old Jags have new paint + clearcoat.



    But ... fear not the chrome. Seems to me it`s some sturdy stuff. About once a year, or when it gets really grungy, I hit it with NeverDull and apply another coat of Zaino. In between, I just use a QD after a really good wash.



    For what it`s worth ....

  6. #6

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    Actually I would invest in a paint thickness guage. I belive Autopia sells one. If not go to www.topoftheine.com

  7. #7
    Spilchy's Avatar
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    Thanks Lynn. Thanks for the tips guys. I`ll talk to him about the paint and if there any spots I should be concerned about. I`m going to take my Menzerma Final Polish if there are scratches and swirls (instead of #9) and my AIO for the chrome. I see that AIO can be used with any metal.



    Whats great is all I have to do is walk next door to the job! If I need something else, I`ll just walk 20 yards back to my basement to the detail supply room!



    Whats weird is all the guy wants me to do on the wheels is to wash with water. Not even car wash soap. I tried to convince him to let me use some P21s conditioning shampoo dilluted in water but he refused. I didn`t argue. He said the wheel are painted with an enamel finish I believe. I didn`t pay attention - was a little baffled by his insistence on water.
    Seth

  8. #8

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    Actually, I`d worry about not having something strong enough rather than the other way around. Older paints can be pretty hard. No clear coat to worry about either. A paint thickness guage couldn`t hurt though, just in case this car has been polished literally hundreds of times over the last 43 years.
    www.scottwax.com

    Certified Opti-Coat Pro/Pro 3 installer

 

 

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