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  1. #1

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    John Meyer’s Waxing Tips



    Car buff John Meyer offers the following waxing tips for keeping vehicles looking their best:



    1. Don’t overwax. “Overwaxing is every week,†Meyer explains. “Think of the car paint as a peel of orange. An orange has to breathe. The more you seal it up, the more it will decay and die. Wax is same way. The only time to wax is when the water stops beading up on hood.â€



    Meyer says overwaxing can seal up the paint and destroy it by causing oxidation and spiderweb cracks.



    Here`s a Link.. John Meyer`s Detailing Tip



    What do you think?

  2. #2

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    "For chrome, Meyer recommends Weenall, a petroleum-free product. “It has coconut oil, so it just washes it off,†Meyer says. “My mother-in-law uses it on fixtures in the church. Just about everybody in show cars uses that.â€"



    Yhea, Good job. Maybe he should learn how to spell "Weenall" first of all...
    2005 F-150 Reg Cab Flareside 5.4L

    Chemical Engineers: More refined than the rest.

  3. #3

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    So is that true that wax can destroy your paint, if you over do it? I didnt even think you could over do it

  4. #4

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    :LOLOL "WEENALL"????? :lol



    OUCH, no it`s not true. Paint breathing and feeding and other nice sounding words to make it sound like it`s a living thing are garbage. :down



    I think in the old days you could "overwax" and end up with a case of wax buildup, but I don`t think that`s possible now with most of the retail products people usually use. Also how the heck does waxing cause oxidation and spiderwebbing?



    I also noticed: "Use a liquid wax because it applies better and can be removed easier."

    "Only let wax stand on a vehicle for 10 minutes. Then wipe it off with a pure cotton towel."

    "Planning to use Armorall or another product on the tires? Do it before waxing. “Otherwise it jumps and gets all over car.â€"



    Along with his comment about this mysterious, brandless product named Final Inspection, I think his knowledge base is a bit out of date, a bit generalized, and limited. That last point about Armor All is just plain confusing though....

  5. #5

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    I`d like to see (`in real life , not on picture) his car:argue

  6. #6

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    I would have to agree here with Brian, this guys advice, well meaning perhaps, is outdated and sounds as though it comes from the "Tech Tips" section of a 1980`s "Muscle Car" magazine.



    Also, gauging ones wax protection by water beading is not an exact science either. Water beads, even small tight water beads, can form on a car with just a polish.



    I will also disagree with his tip of allowing the wax to stand on the paint for "10 minutes". This is perhaps why he recommends a liquid over a paste. Anyone leaving a paste on for 10 minutes will most likely run into trouble when trying to remove it. A good number of detailers almost never allow a wax to set up for longer than 30 seconds.



    Anthony
    "The Art & Science of Auto Detail"

  7. #7

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    OUCH- As everyone is saying, with varying degrees of tact, Mr. Meyer`s information is simply not correct. In fact, a great deal of it is ludicrous. Disregard it. Too bad that such stuff is out there for the unwary to stumble across. Lucky for you that you found Autopia.

  8. #8
    My PC goes to 7... Dave N's Avatar
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    I was listening to a local auto fix-it type radio show a couple of years ago, and the "expert" started talking about waxing your car. He said the reason most peoples` cars look dull is because they have wax buildup. I seriously doubt that 99% of the cars out there could ever get waxed often enough to produce buildup, even if there were such a thing these days. I believe that most consumer products contain cleaners/polishes along with the wax, so you can really never put more than one coat on. Each time you wax, the cleaners/polishes remove the previous coat of wax.



    Well, I`ve got to go dull my finish with another coat of Zaino...

  9. #9

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    Originally posted by Dave N

    Well, I`ve got to go dull my finish with another coat of Zaino...
    Always do right. This will gratify some people and astonish the rest.

    --Mark Twain

  10. #10

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    Originally posted by Anthony Orosco

    A good number of detailers almost never allow a wax to set up for longer than 30 seconds.



    Anthony


    Well, some of the stuff we use needs like 24h or so to cure properly. It all depends on the product, best tip is to read the labels.



    Anyway, Mr Meyer`s tips seem to be directed towards people who walk into an Autozone and scratch their heads in confusion when they reach the detailing supplies dept. :nixweiss Some of it however is just bad info. I think his motive is so that his wife`s car may remain "the cleanest in Greenville".



    Something funny that occured to me: He recommends cotton towels to wax the car, and then says that you need the magic spray that smells like cherries to get all the lint off. But...what about all the lint that gets on while you wipe off the QD spray? :doh



    I guess some people still haven`t heard about the wonderful world of microfiber.
    2000 Civic GPF1 Edition, 5-spd, Milano Red...she`s in good hands now!



    Detailing products in Montreal. If you can, please contribute.

  11. #11

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    Think of it like an orange?? Um, is it bad to overwax an orange? What the hell is that? Is that some truth we should all know in our gut? Yeah, seal up an orange and it`s done for... Let it "breath" and you can still eat it months later... :nixweiss



    Also, why would preventing it from "breathing" cause oxidation. It is the oxygen in the air that causes oxidation... Would allowing iron to "breath" prevent rust better than sealing (suffocating?) it?

  12. #12

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    Originally posted by lalaland

    .....and then says that you need the magic spray that smells like cherries to get all the lint off. But...what about all the lint that gets on while you wipe off the QD spray? :doh
    Originally posted by Aurora40

    Think of it like an orange?? Um, is it bad to overwax an orange? What the hell is that? Is that some truth we should all know in our gut? Yeah, seal up an orange and it`s done for... Let it "breath" and you can still eat it months later... :nixweiss



    Also, why would preventing it from "breathing" cause oxidation. It is the oxygen in the air that causes oxidation... Would allowing iron to "breath" prevent rust better than sealing (suffocating?) it?
    :lol I like these! :spot Man, you guys are brutal!

  13. #13
    Jngrbrdman's Avatar
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    :LOLOL You guys are ruthless. lol This guy does have a few screws loose. If he is comparing he car to an orange then he must have a homemade paint job. :lol Modern paints don`t need to "breathe". If cars were alive then I would buy two Porsches and pray that they hit it off and kick out a baby Porsche. lol Let`s find this guy and offer him a loving invitatation to come over to Autopia and see how bad our over waxed and over sealed cars look.



    Over waxing your car may not be had for its health, but if you get too much wax on it then it does start to look cloudy from the wax buildup. I doubt putting a layer of S100/P21S on your car every other week is really going to hurt though. It doesn`t last long enough to build up.
    Keeping Texas clean one car at a time!

  14. #14
    2wheelsx2's Avatar
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    Originally posted by lalaland

    Well, some of the stuff we use needs like 24h or so to cure properly. It all depends on the product, best tip is to read the labels.



    Anthony was referring to waxes specifically, I think. All the products that I know of requiring any curing time are polymers, which is a different beast all together.

  15. #15

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    Unless a burning bush tells me to stop using S100 theres no way im gonna stop using it....it looks to good....even IF it was causing damage I`m to stubborn to stop using it..hrm..besides i can always repaint the car.

 

 
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