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  1. #1

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    One of those mobile detailers was working on a BMW M6 in my work`s parking lot. So I stopped by to see what it would take to make my 94 Black Del Sol shine like a mirror again. His response was: "Your paint is swirled to the max".



    I do see some swirls on my car, but I don`t think it`s the end of the world. Therefore, I do not think compound is required.



    Other than that, I don`t know which product is best for my situation.



    I`m planning on using a PC to fix the swirl problems on my car.



    Please Advice,



    DocYahoo.

  2. #2

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    Try 3M Perfect It II followed by a good polish, and wax.



    Perfect It will actually remove most swirls rather than just filling in the scratches.



    If they don`t look bad, you could try something less abrasive like Mequiars Swirl Mark Remover.



    You can get either one at Pep Boys.



    I`d also recommend claying the car before the Perfect It, or you`ll just put in more swirls.
    2001 Black Onyx Lexus IS300

    Swift Racing Intake, HKS Exhaust

    19" Gewalt Evo II`s My Car

  3. #3

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    Without knowing the condition of your paint it is really hard to say. But the pads make a big difference in your results. Ensure you have a good mix a pads from aggressive, to moderate to a finishing type pad. 3m makes Perfect It - SMR, for dark color cars. Meguiars #9 2.0 swirl remover is also out there. Both of those products are mainly for light swirl removal.



    [edit] someone types faster than I do

  4. #4
    That'll buff right out! jimmybuffit's Avatar
    Join Date
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    The car is almost 10 years old. What`s been done to it in the past?



    I would start with ABC neutralization.

    Clay if needed.

    DACP or equivalent via Dual Action Polisher

    Evaluate. Like it now?



    (If not, use the search function, cause you got problems, like the pro said!)



    Klase AIO

    Klasse SG (you decide how many coats)



    Pick a good Carnauba based wax to enhance the effect.



    Now, it looks like a new car! Right?



    Good Luck!



    Jim
    "If it was easy, everybody`d be doing it."
    www.jimmybuffit.com

  5. #5

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    BMW M6...? Did they use to make that way back when? If not, the 6 series isn`t coming out until next year with the new M6 1-2 years after that. Or was it a typo M6 = M5?

  6. #6

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    Originally posted by 500amg

    BMW M6...? Did they use to make that way back when? If not, the 6 series isn`t coming out until next year with the new M6 1-2 years after that. Or was it a typo M6 = M5?


    They made an M6 back in the day. The last my was 1989.



    Eric
    Have you AIO`d today?

  7. #7

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    Hi DocYahoo, welcome to Autopia. :wavey



    If your car hasn`t been detailed or clayed before, it most probably needs it or at the very least you`d probably love how the car feels afterwards.



    As a general rule, if you are not sure how strong a polish to use to deal with a certain problem, you should start off with a milder product, evaluate the results, and then either repeat its use or switch to a stronger product. It`s a judgement call you`ll have to do in person, but if the car has 8+ years of swirling you will probably need one of the stronger products as a guess.



    So you may end up using a "compound", but don`t worry too much about that word, since it doesn`t really tell you much. If you haven`t done so already, I recommend the Autopia eBook and a read of Alboston`s PC swirl removal article (should be linked on the left of the main page). Geekysteve has also done a great article linked on another forum. Good luck!

  8. #8

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    They made an M6 back in the day. The last my was 1989.


    Thanks for the info. I didn`t know they made an M6 before. :xyxthumbs





    To help answer the original topic`s question, I would first clay a small portion, say half of the hood. Then I would use a fairly strong product like DACP with a PC on that half of the hood. Next I would spray that section with a 50/50 of water & rubbing alcohol (or denatured) and then evaluate the results. If I was happy, then I continue on the whole car. If not, you can try DACP again or you may have to move to a compound. Without actually seeing it, it`s hard to say.

  9. #9

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    Thanks for the replies. I appreciate it. Although I have been reading all your posting, I didn`t get a chance to reply to them until today.



    First thought: Obviously each different compunds/polishes will have different levels of effectiveness. As suggested by many people, it is best to try different ones until the perfect one is found. Since each prodcut costs around $10 - $20, doesn`t the cost of trying different products get pretty high? Is there a way to get a small sample of each before buying?

  10. #10

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    Originally posted by jimamary

    The car is almost 10 years old. What`s been done to it in the past?


    I bought the car this past March, so I don`t know what has been done.



    I have used different products before (by hand), such as : Scratch X, Meguiar`s Purple paint cleaner, #7, then #26.



    Now that I have joined this forum, I realized that I have made some mistakes about my product choices...



    But that`s why I postest this thread, I need to start from removing the swirls.



    DocYahoo

  11. #11

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    Originally posted by 500amg

    BMW M6...? Did they use to make that way back when? If not, the 6 series isn`t coming out until next year with the new M6 1-2 years after that. Or was it a typo M6 = M5?


    It was a `89 M6 (his lic. plate gave me the 1989 part )



    But if you just show me a panel alone, w/o knowing the make/model of the car, I would`ve guessed that it was a new car... That`s how good the pro was...

  12. #12

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    Originally posted by 4DSC

    Hi DocYahoo, welcome to Autopia. :wavey



    If your car hasn`t been detailed or clayed before, it most probably needs it or at the very least you`d probably love how the car feels afterwards.


    Yes, I have clayed my car soon after I purchased it. It`s got the "glass" feel to it afterwards.

  13. #13

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    After reading 4DSC`s thread about how each of the 3M rate again each other in terms of strength, I think SMR may be too weak for my need... Do you guys agree?



    If I post a picture of my car`s finish, would it help?



    Thanks,



    DocYahoo

  14. #14

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    Originally posted by Docyahoo

    After reading 4DSC`s thread about how each of the 3M rate again each other in terms of strength, I think SMR may be too weak for my need... Do you guys agree?



    If I post a picture of my car`s finish, would it help?



    Thanks,



    DocYahoo


    Pictures would help us determine, what products to recommend, a little easier.



    Of course we would like after pics, too.



    Eric
    Have you AIO`d today?

  15. #15

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    Originally posted by Docyahoo

    His response was: "Your paint is swirled to the max".


    Don`t let comments like that Affect you too much. As a businessman, he was just giving you a saavy response....perhaps to inject a feeling of "I gotta hire this guy!". With some practice, I`m sure you can bring your car to showroom condition.



    3M SMR is a relatively mild product that may or may not be strong enough for your situation. However, IMO if you want your paint to look "new" the way the M6 did, I would start with something stronger. 3M SMR is so mild that I feel comfortable using it with a polishing pad on my BMW regularly (3-4 times a year) just to MAINTAIN the brand-new look. If your car doesn`t look "new" right now, I`d definitely start with something like DACP (or 3M FI-II) with a cutting pad, followed by an SMR with a finishing pad. I remember reading an old thread by GeekySteve who stated that a PC with DACP/FI-II, then SMR, then GEPC is good enough to fix 90% of the paint-correction situations he encounters.

 

 
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