by David W. Bynon

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Trim is anything the manufacturer or you apply to the car to enhance its style and appearance.` It is trim that makes the difference between an otherwise plain-looking car and a sharp automobile.` However, due to the time involved in maintaining trim, it is often overlooked.



Over time, trim that is not maintained will become dirty, dull and worn, making the whole car look bad.` Well maintained trim stands out and makes the whole car look better.



Common trim items include chrome bumpers, window molding, chrome light rings, chrome door handles, rubber door and bumper guards, window wipers, emblems and antennas.` On classic and antique cars, you might also have horns, leather straps, hood ornaments and exposed exhaust manifolds.



CHROME TRIM

Chrome trim pieces are common on all cars, antique, classic and modern.` All chrome components, including bumpers, door handles, window trim, exhaust tips and fender moldings, should be polished and waxed.` As with polishing paint, use the least abrasive polish necessary to do the job.` Chrome is a very thin plating, and it does not take long to polish through your chrome into the brass coating beneath.



If your chrome is in good condition, clean it with Dawn dishwashing detergent and use a light chrome polish to brighten and remove minor imperfections.` The chrome polish I like most is Luster Pad from Luster Care Products.` Luster Pad is a polish impregnated cotton pad that works a lot like classic Never-Dull, but I think has a much better polish.



If your chrome trim is heavily rusted or pitted from rusting, use #00 or #000 steel wool with Dawn dishwashing detergent or an SOS pad to clean the chrome part, then follow with a medium chrome polish.` To restore rusted chrome, I like suggest Wenol.` There are two grades, one to remove stains and rust, the other to polish and brighten.



Often, chrome trim will sit atop or butt up against a rubber seal.` You may spend hours polishing and treating your chrome, only to have its beauty diminished by the rubber. For best results, when you polish your chrome, you should also clean and treat the adjoining rubber.



I find that a small detailing brush or a soft toothbrush works best for cleaning and treating the rubber around chrome trim.` Again, use a solution of Dawn dishwashing detergent and a brush to thoroughly clean the rubber. The Dawn dishwashing detergent will remove dirt, wax build-up and other grime. Flush thoroughly with water, dry and treat with your favorite rubber and vinyl dressing.



As an alternative, you can use a product like Meguiar`s #40 Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner & Protectant to detail the rubber. Use a detailing brush to work Meguiar`s #40 into the rubber and under the rubber to remove dirt.` Allow the cleaner/protectant to sit for a while, then remove the dirt and excess solution with a cotton towel.



After cleaning and polishing your chrome and taking care of the adjoining rubber, you should seal the chrome to make your work last.` Your normal wax or polymer sealant will work okay, but I like to use Luster Seal Metal Sealant. I find that it lasts much longer than waxes or traditional paint sealants.



According to the manufacturer of Luster Seal Metal Sealant, if you apply the sealant every 30 days, additional polishing of the metal will not be necessary. I think this is highly unrealistic. I use it on my chrome and polished aluminum trim three to four times a year, and it works fine.



BLACK TRIM

Most cars made during the 1980s and 1990s featured some black trim. Most black trim pieces are made of plastic, rubber, anodized aluminum, or satin black painted metal.



All black trim should be regularly cleaned with car wash shampoo. If extra scrubbing power is required, use a toothbrush, paintbrush, or a soft detailing brush. Do not use a stiff bristle brush on black trim, as it will scratch.



To keep black trim in good condition, it must be treated with a protectant several times a year. Depending on the material, there will be several different treatments.



On smooth black plastic, you can use any vinyl and rubber dressing.` For best long-term results, choose a vinyl and rubber dressing that contains UV protection to prevent sun faving. I use and recommend 303 Aerospace Protectant or Lexol Vinylex.` You can also use a good non-cleaning wax, such as Blitz, Pinnacle, P21S, or Meguiar`s #26.` Waxes containing cleaners will leave white wax residue stains.`



On textured black plastic, use a vinyl and rubber dressing.` If your textured black plastic is starting to weather, use one of the restoration products available, such as Eagle One Black Trim Restorer or Black Again Exterior Trim Restorer.` These products are not permanent solutions for faded trim, but they last longer, make the trim darker, and add a little more gloss than most vinyl and rubber protectants.



If your textured black plastic is heavily weathered or faded, you can bring it back to life with a product like Forever Black, which is a dye system for black plastic and rubber trim.` It`s advertised as a permanent solution, but in my experience it will only last a couple of years if the vehicle remains in the sun.` Also, don`t think that Forever Black is a replacement for vinyl and rubber dressing.` It`s not.` After` Forever Black cures, you still need to keep the trim protected and looking good with vinyl and rubber dressing.



To maintain black anodized trim, use a non-cleaning wax or sealant.` Anodized aluminum must be treated with great care.` The coating is very thin.` Even the mildest abrasives (polish and cleaners) will quickly scuff or remove the coating.` The sun is a problem, too, as exposure to UV rays will fade black anodized trim.



Painted black trim is often difficult to properly maintain.` If you wax it, the original satin finish will begin to take on gloss.` If you don`t treat it, the trim will fade and become flat.` The best solution I`ve found so far is to treat satin black trim (windshield wipers are a good example) with 303 Aerospace Protectant or Meguiar`s #40.` Both of these products have a natural satin finish, wipe off to a greaseless finish, and won`t soften the black paint.` Simply use a foam or cloth applicator and thoroughly buff dry after applying.



RUBBER SEALS

Rubber seals and moldings around windows, doors, lights, hood, trunk and bumpers are designed to protect the car from water, wind and dirt.` These rubber components also trim the car to enhance its appearance.` If you do not maintain rubber seals, they will become stiff, brittle and eventually crack or tear.



Clean rubber door, trunk and hood seals with soap and water twice a year.` Treat the seals with a water-based vinyl and rubber dressing.` After coating the seals, allow the dressing to penetrate for 10 to 15 minutes, then dry the seals with a clean towel.` I use 303 Aerospace Protectant on seals.` It dries completely oil-free.



Some car manufactures, such as Porsche and BMW, recommend using talcum powder on door and hood seals to provide lubrication.` This will extend the life of the door seal.` Simply sprinkle a small amount of talcum powder on a small piece of tee shirt material and wipe it onto the seal after applying rubber and vinyl dressing.



Rubber seals around windows, lights, door handles and mirrors should also be cleaned twice a year using a brush and soapy water.` However, these "exposed" rubber seals should be treated more frequently than door and hood seals, as they get heavy UV radiation from the sun.



I recommend treating window seals with rubber and vinyl protectant once a month.` Apply the protectant prior to cleaning your windows.` Use a generous amount, and allow it to penetrate before buffing dry.` When working in tight areas, use a cotton or foam swab to apply the dressing.` Use a quick detailing spray to clean off excess protectant from painted surfaces.



BADGES

Many cars have badges or emblems sporting the manufactures` crest or the name of the automobile.` These badges are easily cleaned with a soft toothbrush or detailing brush and soapy water.



If the dirt is stubborn, use a higher strength cleaner, such as P21S Total Auto Wash, Eimann Fabrik Hi-Intensity, or Stoner Xenit.` Be sure to flush thoroughly with water after using one of these cleaners.



After cleaning, protect the badge with a coat of wax or sealant.` Remove any excess wax with a quick detailing spray and a clean toothbrush or detailing brush.



Car name emblems, are often more difficult to clean and wax around than a badge.` Most often, the emblem is a script that sits right on the paint.` Waxing around these emblems is a challenge, as a polishing cloth won`t reach between the letters to remove wax residue.` In this case, use cotton swabs or wrap the head of a tooth brush with a single layer of cotton tee shirt material.



DOOR AND BUMPER GUARDS

Many cars include door and bumper molding that serves to protect the car from door dings and soft bumps.` Treat these pieces of trim with rubber and vinyl protectant once a month to keep them in good shape.



Door and bumper molding should be thoroughly cleaned twice a year with soapy water and a toothbrush or detailing brush.` Dirt commonly builds up on the bottom edges, in cracks or around the small caps used to terminate the end or a piece of molding.` Use the brush and soapy water to get in the cracks as deeply as possible.



LIGHT COVERS

Plastic light covers easily scratch.` After only a few months on the road, light covers will begin to show signs of wear.` To keep light covers looking good, they must be regularly cleaned and polished.



You can clean and polish light covers with the part on the car, but I find it useful to remove the light covers at least twice a year.` Doing so allows me to inspect the seal for wear, check for corrosion, and clean the painted area around the light.` It also allows me to clean and polish the light cover much better than I could if the part was on the car.` Most covers can be removed with a Philips screwdriver.



For thorough cleaning and polishing I use Meguiar`s #17 and #10 Plastic Cleaner & Plastic Polish.` To clean and lightly polish light covers while still on the car (monthly), I recommendPlexus.



LICENSE PLATE FRAMES

License plates and their frames should be removed from the car at least once a year for cleaning, polishing and treating.` You`d be amazed at the dirt that collects behind your license plate and frame, too.` A good time to do this cleaning is when you renew your tags.



With the license plate removed, you can take it to a deep sink and give it a good scrub.` After cleaning, give the plate a quick buff with a paint cleaner or fine polish, then protect the plate with your wax or sealant.` Clean and protect the frame, too.



RETRACTABLE ANTENNAS

Retractable antennas, manual or electric, require regular maintenance.` The antenna mast should be cleaned and lubricated twice a year using a paper towel or rag sprayed with WD-40.` Buff off the excess WD-40 with a clean towel.



If the antenna mast shows a lot of dirt or signs of corrosion, use an SOS pad before treating with WD-40.` Scrub gently, and be sure to rinse all of the SOS pad residue off of the antenna and painted surfaces.



SUMMARY

It`s the small details that make the difference between a good looking car and one that`s stunning.` In a recent visit to the San Diego Automobile Museum, I couldn`t help but notice how the beautifully restored, polished and treated trim on some cars of the vintage and exotic cars made for a stunning display.` Pay attention to your trim and see what a big difference in makes

in your car`s final appearance.



<font size="1">All products mentioned in this article are available from Classic Motoring Accessories and are used at the buyer`s own risk.` Autopia Car Care is not affiliated with and does not represent Classic Motoring Accessories or the manufacturers of the products mentioned.</font>