jimwh`s klasse instructions

**medic** · 05-07-2002, 01:03 AM

While searching the archives, I found several references to some instructions jimwh wrote about how to properly use Klasse. Does anyone have a copy of these they can repost becasue they seem to have disappeard. It looks like it`s supposed to be thread #1143, but all the links return a 404 Not found error and the search doesn`t pull up anything either.

**99323ic** · 05-07-2002, 06:38 AM

Here`s the post again...I`ve had several requests for it lately, so I`m glad that they seem to be of use...

I`ve used Klasse and found it to be really easy to use, literally just follow the directions. What I liked about it is the amount of time that it took to 3 layers of each product (a one day process with liberal breaks).

First off, go to CMA ( <http://www.properautocare.com> ) and get the Klasse Concours kit ( <http://www.properautocare.com/klasconkit.html> ) for $40. It contains 16 oz. bottles of All-In-One and Sealant Glaze, and 2 microfiber covered foam applicators with directions. Alternatively you can step up one notch and get the Klasse Complete Kit ( <http://www.properautocare.com/klascomkit.html> ) for $60 which adds to the Concours kit the following: Vinyl, Leather, Rubber, Cleaner Protectant (8 oz.), the Klasse Wheel Cleaner (16.9 oz.), 3 Microfiber Applicator Pads (instead of 2), and 1 Microfiber Final Wipe towel (different than what I recommend next).

Also get 1 or 2 (I`d recommend 2, if your wallet doesn`t mind) 5-packs of micro fiber towels ( <http://www.properautocare.com/kitiffivmict.html> ) for $30 (each) which will give you 1 (awesome) Miracle Towel for final buffing, cleaning, wipe downs, etc.; 1 Viper Glass Cleaning Cloth for glass & plastic surfaces; and 3 Viper Detailing Cloths for product application/removal and general cleaning.

SIDE BAR: The trick to using the Viper Glass cloth, by the way, is to use a 50/50 solution of filtered/distilled water and isopropyl alcohol, thoroughly wet the cloth and then WRING, WRING, WRING until it`s as dry as possible. Wipe along and use a second glass cloth (or Miracle Towel) to dry/buff. Clean & streak free. Try your best to not overlap onto the paint as that will strip Klasse if left on too long.

You will also need some no-wax detailing spray, such as Meguiar`s Final Inspection ( <http://www.properautocare.com/megfinin.html> ) for $5. This is used in between Sealant Glaze layers. If your wallet doesn`t mind, also get some Eimann Fabrik Clear Pearl Instant Detail Spray ( <http://www.properautocare.com/cp-32.html> ) for $15. This contains carnauba, so you`d only use this after you`ve finished your Klasse treatment. Since it contains wax, it will help rejuvenate your wax (or if you don`t add a layer of Biltz on top, it just richens the shine that the Klasse gives).

Ok, on to the fun part!

In a shady area (or garage), start off with a freshly stripped car by using Dawn (the original blue stuff) and really give it a good scrubbing. Dry with an Absorber towel ($9 locally) or a PS21 drying towel ( <http://www.properautocare.com/p21-168.html> ) ($10). Be very thorough in your drying.

Take a break!

Grab your Klasse All-In-One (AIO) and an applicator pad. Clap the applicator pad in your hands a few times to get rid of any loose fibers and trim any loose threads. Wet it down and SQUEEZE it until damp. Put it aside and shake, shake, shake the AIO. Pour about a dime sized drop on to the pad. Personally, I start on the trunk lid and smoothly apply back and forth (in the direction of airflow) from one side of the car to the next. Check your pad and see if you need to add some more AIO. According to the directions, you shouldn`t need or than an ounce or so for the entire car (less is better). Go over the entire car from back to front.

Take a break! (but not too long)

Do it again. No need to buff off the first coat.

Take a break! (but not too long)

(Personal preference) I do a third layer on the leading edges of the hood, above the windshield, and the mirrors, where ever a stone or crusty bug might hit.

Grab a Detailing Cloth and remove any AIO residue (there shouldn`t be much).

Take a break! (You deserve it!!) Wash your hands and dry really well. Come back to the car and feel it. Look in a mirror and see the grin on your face The paint should feel like melted butter; really smooth and soft. Yippee!!

Grab the other applicator and do the same thing (Clap the applicator pad in your hands a few times to get rid of any loose fibers and trim any loose threads.) DO NOT WET IT! Put it aside and shake, shake, shake the Sealant Glaze (SG). Pour about a dime sized drop on to the pad. Start at the trunk lid again and in the direction of airflow apply from one side of the car to the other side.

Go over the entire car using light coats (remember that less is better!). Once your done with the first layer, you should end up at the trunk again. Grab a detailing cloth and your Final Inspection. Give 1 spritz to the towel and begin to remove the SG. If it`s too hard to remove, use some more detail spray. The goal here is to have the SG sit for about 20 minutes or so between residue removal. You can adjust your technique to fit your style, but that`s your goal.

Take a break! You`re almost there!

Do it again! Now you should start to see some really nice, deep richness to your car. A third layer will intensify this, but 4 or more seems to have diminishing returns, so 2 or 3 seems to be the ideal.

By the way, don`t worry about getting the AIO or SG on the glass, it buffs off with ease. It also doesn`t stain rubber moldings!

Now, here`s an option. You can either sit back and really enjoy your shiny car (make sure that you put on sunglasses before moving it into the sun!!) or you can add a wax topper. Most here seem to love Blitz ( <http://www.properautocare.com/blitzwax10oz.html> ) for it`s durability, price ($16), and how it brings out the richness of the paint.

At this point any tiredness that you feel will be whisked away whenever you gaze at your beautiful car =;-)

My apologies for the long post, but I got carried away!

**medic** · 05-07-2002, 10:54 AM

thanks jimwh, those are great instructions - cuts down on having to read 10 differen posts to get pieces of the information.

One questions. I know MF foam pads and detailing cloths are the way to go, but is there a reason terry cloth towels won`t work also? Is it just that they absorb too much product or are more likely to streak/stratch since they tend to have more lint/fibers?

**valleyguy** · 05-07-2002, 11:29 AM

I apply the SG somewhat differently, following the instructions that comes with the Klasse Concours kit. They suggest to moisten the applicator pad with QD (I use EO wipe & shine, it`s cheap & effective) when APPLYING the SG. It seems to make removal easy and ensures a thin layer.

Here`s their instructions:

http://www.properautocare.com/klasapguid.html

**imported_fatboy** · 05-07-2002, 06:44 PM

just wondering, if you apply SG with a dry applicator, won`t the SG just soak into the pad instead of going on the car?

**ernie** · 05-07-2002, 07:45 PM

gb:

I was worried about that a bit, so for applying the SG I spritzed a foam applicator (similar to valleyguy`s suggestion) with Sonus QD [one spritz per 2-3 panel equivalents] then placed the drop (dime, nickel, whatever) of SG on the applicator. I then "dabbed" the SG across the section I intended on applying it to, then spread it with the pad until I had a thin application. I`m sure there are other ways to do it, but this seemed to work well for me [as judged by the shine after two applications

That being said, I am certainly not as experienced as the other folks here, so consider the source

ernie

**nerdhunters** · 05-07-2002, 08:26 PM

I moisten the AIO and SG applicator pads with distilled water. And when rmoving SG, put a micro fibre towel in both hands moisten one with distilled water and wipe off the SG with it and follow with the dry towel. It is very easy and gives a great shine.

**ldonato** · 05-07-2002, 10:58 PM

between SG coats? does it really make a difference? curing times, etc.... or can i just apply right after the first coat....

**99323ic** · 05-08-2002, 07:07 AM

Well, it looks like I was able to raise some additional questions.

In regards to the damp versus dry applicator, I simply followed the (brief) instructions included with the concours kit from CMA. The instructions may have changed since then or another source may have alternate instructions. Mine simply stated to use AIO with a damp applicator and SG with a dry. Some fellow Klasse users prefer foam, believing that it will not absorb (and therefor waste) too much product.

As to removing SG, my first time, I only let it set to a haze (no streaking) before buffing off. I`ve since learned that (by consensus) 20 minutes or so should be sufficient. Depending on your weather conditions, 24 hours may be too much and you`ll have a difficult time buffing it out. I tend to work my way around that car and by the time I get back to where I started and have taken a short break roughly an hour has gone by and I begin removing.

Lastly, about MF towels. I had read many posts on the subject and found that the arguments for using MF were pretty convincing. DonG2000 was my primary convincer (Don, where are you now??)

If you use a high quality cotton towel, there should be no issue. I just happened to prefer going with MF. Either way, you`ll want to be very careful about washing the towels. I feel that MF towels release dirt better and therefor there`s less chance of scratching.

**ldonato** · 05-08-2002, 10:59 AM

Originally posted by jimwh

Well, it looks like I was able to raise some additional questions.

As to removing SG, my first time, I only let it set to a haze (no streaking) before buffing off. I`ve since learned that (by consensus) 20 minutes or so should be sufficient. Depending on your weather conditions, 24 hours may be too much and you`ll have a difficult time buffing it out. I tend to work my way around that car and by the time I get back to where I started and have taken a short break roughly an hour has gone by and I begin removing.

i was asking more about multiple coats rather than time between buffing. after my first coat of SG is applied and buffed, how long before i can put on my second coat of SG?

Do it again! Now you should start to see some really nice, deep richness to your car. A third layer will intensify this, but 4 or more seems to have diminishing returns, so 2 or 3 seems to be the ideal.

this sounds to me like i can do it right away... but from reading on the board i thought a curing time of 6-24 hours was best bet between SG layers. thanks for clearing this up for me, about to have my first klasse experience and want to get things right...

**99323ic** · 05-08-2002, 11:58 AM

Eugene - What I`m getting at is that the consensus is about 20 minutes to 1 hour is enough time for each coat to set up...once set up, buff it out and then go ahead and start on the 2nd (3rd, etc.) coat.

At least, this is the way I have done it. I seem to recall a post saying that 1 day apart would be best, but if the cross-linking of the polymer occurs after 20 or so minutes, I would think it`s ready to go on to round 2. Frankly, I think the post was someone getting Klasse & Zaino confused, as Zaino (before ZFX) required waiting a day between top coats.

I hope that this helps. If you have questions, go ahead and post or give a call to CMA, as they can certainly help as well. Good luck & make sure that you post some before & after pics.

**Ken B** · 05-08-2002, 01:01 PM

I think that dry and cure are different things (DETAILKING, plese step in!)

20 minutes is the time it takes for the SG`s solvents to dry and the "indicators" (haze) to surface, then you can buff off the excess

the 24 hour waiting period is to finalize the product`s "Cure" time, which is when the product is completely bonded to the previous coat of AIO or SG.

the theory, as I understand it, is that the SG is something like 60% cured after the 20 minutes, and 100% after 24 hours.

If you add another coat at this time, the solvents on the "new" coat of SG will remove some of the not-fully-cured SG, therefore sacrifizing some of the layering.

I personaly do both

AIO and SG*2 with a 20 minute wait on saturday, leave it garaged overnight and then apply 2 more coats (morning and evening), then wait untill the next weekend, Wash and apply 2 coats of SG every day.

so I have some 20 minute, some 2 hours and some 1 week.

:xyxthumbs

**ldonato** · 05-08-2002, 03:47 PM

all this great info. the coming weeks will be fun and long. 4 cars to detail. trying klasse for the first time. smr for the first time. and pc for the first time. yay