Leather Care

[charlieo]

Hi all,

For the 1st time in my life I`m faced with caring for leather seats: in this case they`re in my dad`s 2017 CRV.
I`d like to use products that I have available, so hopefully something that I have works.
The seats are in very good shape but I figured they could use some care.

My plan: swish some pure glycerin soap in some water, soak a soft rag and then wring til only damp so I`m not going to drip water on the leather, wipe the surface, then wipe again with another (only slightly damp) cloth that has nothing but water on it. I realize that I`m supposed to work up a lather but that didn`t sound right to me, I don`t want to leave soapy residue.
I`d then dry the leather.

I expected to follow a day or so later with 303 Aerospace, but I recently discovered Medallion Premium Leather Care.

Any thoughts on this method of care?
I assume the glycerin is better than dishwashing liquid and I believe both are pretty much PH neutral.
I think these seats are known to be plastic-coated, so inclined towards the 303, plus I`m thinking the Medallion might be unnecessary and maybe kinda greasy/sticky.

Thanks for any suggestions.

[Ron Ketcham]

What does the owners manual section say about this?

[Lonnie]

I am of the opinion that one should use leather-specific/dedicated leather cleaning and conditioning products on such interior material.
Since you are inclined to use something readily available and over-the-counter leather-care products, I would highly suggest going to AutoZone or O`Reilly Auto and getting some of the Griot`s Garage leather care products, like their 3-in-1 Leather Care. If they have the Odor Neutralizing Leather Cleaner in stock, buy and use that first before the Leather Conditioner.
I would NOT suggest buying or using Lexol Leather Cleaner and separate Conditioner "twins", even though the cleaner has the glycerin for cleaning you mentioned. Yes, I admit having used Lexol twins in the past on some nicer leather, but I have been "schooled and educated" from others in this forum about not using Lexol, hence my suggestion for using Griot`s Garage Leather Care products.

The Medallion Premium Leather Care product you mentioned is, I assume, a Meguiar`s Mirror Glaze "premium" product. I used that as well, but that was even before the Lexol twins. It was OK in its day, but I have moved on to Griot`s Garage leather care products. I also assume the word "discovered" means you`ve seen it somewhere in an automotive store, but did not purchased it yet.

One other suggestion for an readily available, over-the-counter (OTC) leather product is Chemical Guy`s leather care available at Walmart. I know some in this forum are NOT keen about using Chemical Guy`s products, especially since it comes from a big-box store like Walmart. I have no experience with it, so for me to say it it "better" than using Lexol is unfounded and has no merit. Your buying and using it means you would be "the guinea pig" as to how well it works. It`s just a suggestion and option of an OTC product.

One caviat to watch out for is using a strong ammonia-based cleaner or a degreaser soap or Goo-Gone on coated leather or using Mr. Clean Scrubbing Pads to remove/abrade embedded dirt or blue-jean color transfer or ink pen marks. DON`T do it. You can (and will) permanently discolor or scuff mark your leather. And yes, specialty leather cleaning products for such stains are available via internet resellers and not generally OTC (local leather upholstery shop(s) being the exception).

As far as a readily available, over-the-counter soap for cleaning, on coated leather some have used Woolite Cold Water Soap (Yes, the laundry soap for fine,delicate fabric and clothes). I have done that as well, using a 1:7 diluted ratio (1-part soap: 7-parts water) but that was also a long time ago. This suggestion came from long-ago Autopian contributor Scottwax who stated that back in the 60`s Cadillac actually suggested using Woolite for cleaning their leather in their cars, according to the owners manual.
Again, I think there are "better" leather-specific cleaning products available today. Not sure I am telling the truth? Key in "Woolite" is the Search box yourself and look at ALL the thread topics from the early days (2002-2007) of this forum on using this product on leather.

As far as using 303 protectant on coated leather? DON`T. It might say it can be, but I would not. It`s really is designed and formulated for vinyl and plastic, NOT coated leather.

Still unsure??? One other suggestion is to go to an automotive upholstery shop in your area and ask them what they suggest. They deal with leather all the time and they may have a product line that they use for sale to their customers and general public.
OR a nearby Harley-Davidson dealership and see what they suggest for a leather cleaner and conditioner, albeit for black leather seats.

You question about cleaning and conditioning coated leather is a common newbe topic. You are not the first and you wouldn`t be the last.

There is also the school of thought that coated leathers should NOT be conditioned, only cleaned, as the conditioner attracts dirt and dirt is THE killer of wearing out and discoloring leather, especially in the seams and stitching of the leather seat. You can "research" that topic yourself. Cleaning the seams and stitching with a soft tooth brush (yes, there are specialized brushes for this purpose) goes without saying, and is probably THE most over-looked part of thoroughly cleaning leather seats and upholstery. One tip before you start cleaning leather is to vacuum it by phyisically pulling the seams apart with your finger and brushing them and then vacuuming them,again spreading/pulling the seams apart with your fingers on one hand and vacuuming with the other. A lot of work? Yes, but it is easier to vacuum and remove"dry dirt" first to than soak-up or wipe up "wet dirt" later when shampooing/cleaning.

[The Guz]

Get some dedicated products. Colourlock is a leather care company that makes great products to maintain leather. I would recommend looking into them for cleaning and protecting.

[charlieo]

Thanks all for the feedback.

[PoisonTheWell]

One other suggestion for an readily available, over-the-counter (OTC) leather product is Chemical Guy`s leather care available at Walmart. I know some in this forum are NOT keen about using Chemical Guy`s products, especially since it comes from a big-box store like Walmart. I have no experience with it, so for me to say it it "better" than using Lexol is unfounded and has no merit. Your buying and using it means you would be "the guinea pig" as to how well it works. It`s just a suggestion and option of an OTC product.

I`ve used it, it wasn`t a night and day improvement, but it helped on my seats and it didn`t harm them. I have a Leatherique kit that I`ve never broken into due to lack of time.

[charlieo]

I`ve been looking through the forum and noticed that a # of you recommend Leather Master`s products. It looks like the cleaner and protector are used, but I see a 3rd product called `Vital` that is supposed to soften/condition the leather. It doesn`t look like this is often mentioned: is this intended more for `real` leather and not necessary on coated automotive leather?
I much prefer 2 steps so no problem skipping this.
I see that Accumulator speaks highly of this, and he`s advised me well in the past, maybe he`s out there somewhere...

[Coatings=crack]

I`ve been looking through the forum and noticed that a # of you recommend Leather Master`s products. It looks like the cleaner and protector are used, but I see a 3rd product called `Vital` that is supposed to soften/condition the leather. It doesn`t look like this is often mentioned: is this intended more for `real` leather and not necessary on coated automotive leather?
I much prefer 2 steps so no problem skipping this.
I see that Accumulator speaks highly of this, and he`s advised me well in the past, maybe he`s out there somewhere...

If the leather looks worn I would use vital. I’ve read that it will and won’t penetrate the manufacturers coating. If leather looks good just clean and coat

I would personally use a leather coating like Gyeon Leathershield on coated leather


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[charlieo]

No, the seats are fine, just wanted to give them some attention, and this might literally be the only time I detail leather seats (I prefer cloth myself).
I`ve heard good things about Leathershield but it looks to be pretty $$ for a possible 1-time use.
I think the Leather Master might cost closer to $25, which I could see myself doing, but thanks for the suggestion.

[Accumulator]

Some quick, sorta-random thoughts follow:

- Like my pal Stokdgs, I only use dedicated Leather Care products on my leather *IF* I`m doing anything more than just wiping down with an Interior Quick Detailer, which is basically all I ever do for years on end. IME, leather seldom needs anything beyond being kept clean, but that`s just our vehicles and how we use them (which does include hauling big dogs year-round).

- Besides the info that follows, I do frequently wipe my leather steering wheels with Griot`s Interior Cleaner to remove skin oils and any dirt. No, I don`t then "treat" them, at least not regularly (can`t remember the last time I did).

- The best leather care products I`ve ever used were from Richard Koh/The Leather Doctor. Great stuff, blew me away. I do *NOT* do his "Fat Liquoring" process because (like Leatherique) the hassle isn`t worth it to me and I see no need to do it on my leather. That`s not so say it isn`t advisable.

- Other than the above, I recommend products LeatherMasters and Sonus, which work fine and are much quicker/cheaper/easier than the Leather Doctor stuff. I did have good results with leather care products from Griot`s, but that was a long time ago.

- IME, after a little use "coated" leather can (and maybe should) be treated like uncoated. YES I have softened up old coated leather that people said "needed replaced" and it`s stayed nice. Sure not saying coated leather will need any "conditioning", but I wouldn`t listed to people who say it can`t be useful since it definitely was IME.

Note that I basically just do next-to-nothing (99.9% of the time) or go ultra overkill with the Leather Doctor products.

[charlieo]

Thanks Accumulator, maybe because I`ve used their products before, I noticed Sonus in the Autopia store and the price was right, plus I think I have a coupon.
Looks out of stock right now, but no rush: using Sonus Swirlbuster and then FK1000 on the paint is more pressing than the seats at this time.
In the spring I`ll use AIO followed by the FK, I assume there`s benefit to using AIO prior for a little extra cleaning.

Thanks again to all.

[Anthony Orosco]

Treat modern leather like you would vinyl. Water based cleaner and a water based protectant. All the products intended for aniline leather types are not meant for modern leathers, such as mink oils and saddle soaps.

[Accumulator]

In the spring I`ll use AIO followed by the FK, I assume there`s benefit to using AIO prior for a little extra cleaning..

That`s the way I usually do it, if (and for me that`s a big "if") you do need any real cleaning. While it`s Autopian Heresy, I often..?usually?..just apply another coat of the FK.

All the products intended for aniline leather types are not meant for modern leathers, such as mink oils and saddle soaps..

Hey Anthony!

Heh heh, I hadn`t even thought of the Saddle Soap, let alone Mink Oil, for Detailing use! Not even in my not-so-modern Jag.

[Dan]

Treat modern leather like you would vinyl. Water based cleaner and a water based protectant. All the products intended for aniline leather types are not meant for modern leathers, such as mink oils and saddle soaps.

I think that is probably right for the first few years as the leather won’t absorb any products meant to keep it soft.

But I don’t agree that approach will do much once leather gets older. If you keep at it, your leather will in fact eventually fail.

[Older]

You may look into Geist products. I used the cleaner today. Truly excellent. And easy. Spray it on a brush, brush it in, let it sit for 3-5 mins, wipe off with a microfiber. Nice matte finish.