I have no idea how or why GM used this type of finish on the hatchback panels on my car.
It appears that the plastic has some etching done to it from water spots and general just stains ?
I included some before and after pics - the after pics is after I tried 303 and carpro Perl on the plastic.
*I attempted to clean the plastic first with diluted iso but it made the spots turn white so I got scared of thinking I’ll ruin the whole panel* ? I hope I I didn’t ?!
I’m not sure what to do beside keep
Coating it with 303 and Perl? As I was making passes with Perl and 303 my white mf kept having brown residue on it.
That is just the nature of that area if it is not cared for. I would give Meguiar`s M39 a try and see if that helps and then keep it dressed. You could coat it if you like.
That is just the nature of that area if it is not cared for. I would give Meguiar`s M39 a try and see if that helps and then keep it dressed. You could coat it if you like.
Makes sense. Not too many people pay attention to the underside of a hatch lol. Right now it’s just sitting there with the Perl and 303 on it.
I’m just scared if I destroyed it with the alcohol wipe down (diluted 10:1)
I can`t imagine even straight IPA would do anything (damage-wise) to that plastic. The problem with "water spots" like that is that you don`t really know what it is. For instance, if that`s hard wash/rinse water that`s dried on there and is effectively a hard water spot, water or IPA won`t do anything to remove that. You could use something slightly abrasive, but then you risk changing the gloss in that particular area. Something like KAIO, which Accumulator likes to refer to as "functionally non-abrasive" would probably work well, but again, you might have to do the whole panel to get a uniform appearance.
But it might be spots from something else. If you using KAIO or the Meg`s #39 you`d probably want to do the whole piece anyway, maybe you`ll be able to get that mark off from the hatch seal. Put some 303 or Gummi Pfledge on the seal so it sticks/transfers less.
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I can`t imagine even straight IPA would do anything (damage-wise) to that plastic. The problem with "water spots" like that is that you don`t really know what it is. For instance, if that`s hard wash/rinse water that`s dried on there and is effectively a hard water spot, water or IPA won`t do anything to remove that. You could use something slightly abrasive, but then you risk changing the gloss in that particular area. Something like KAIO, which Accumulator likes to refer to as "functionally non-abrasive" would probably work well, but again, you might have to do the whole panel to get a uniform appearance.
But it might be spots from something else. If you using KAIO or the Meg`s #39 you`d probably want to do the whole piece anyway, maybe you`ll be able to get that mark off from the hatch seal. Put some 303 or Gummi Pfledge on the seal so it sticks/transfers less.
Does m39 stain or discolour plastic ? I would guess it doesn’t seeing as it’s made specifically for this purpose ?
Can you clean off the back seal residue from the plastic hatch? I would think that cleaner like Optimum`s Power Clean diluted 3:1 would work well.
I am of the opinion that the quality of GM`s plastic is to blame here. I have had "problems" with streaking of Aerospace 303 on such GM plastic, especially dark grey or black. Or maybe it is just me. I just live with it and tell the owners of such GM vehicles that`s just the way it is. The fact that this occurred on more than one GM vehicle is not coincidental.
GB detailer
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Can you clean off the back seal residue from the plastic hatch? I would think that cleaner like Optimum`s Power Clean diluted 3:1 would work well.
I am of the opinion that the quality of GM`s plastic is to blame here. I have had "problems" with streaking of Aerospace 303 on such GM plastic, especially dark grey or black. Or maybe it is just me. I just live with it and tell the owners of such GM vehicles that`s just the way it is. The fact that this occurred on more than one GM vehicle is not coincidental.
On a related subject, I`ve seen older vehicles with higher mileage where the door jams/sill lower and sometimes upper paint is scratched or even worn from the the constant closing-and-opening of such vehicles doors because either the door sill itself is not cleaned of dirt and debris, like that of those that use automated car tunnel washes OR the seal has not been cleaned on a "regular" basis. It also can signify poor-fitting doors or seals and the constant driven-vehicle vibration will cause these areas to wear thin as well AND/OR the seal itself is worn thin or through is such areas.
I say that because I hear vehicle owners tell me that they take their vehicle through the automated car wash on a regular basis, and while they do look good, the door jam/sill areas never get cleaned properly or completely, as a 2-bucket wash can do IF the detailer/owner opens the doors and rear trunk/hatch to clean those areas.
I am surprised at how much dirt and debris (lawn and leaf litter and pine needles and small sticks) can accumulate in the seams and folds of door and trunk/hatch seals. A heavy-duty blue shop paper toweling soaked with a little APC will clean those areas along with cotton swabs (Q-Tips) to get deep into those seal seams, channels, and folds and old, soft-bristled tooth brushes for cleaning fluted accordion-like bellows of electrical wiring connector seals. I like using heavy-duty blue shop paper toweling because of the blackness from the dead, oxidized rubber that comes off from such clean and this cleaning media can then be discarded as garbage when done, but older microfibers or cotton clothes/rags that you do not mind getting stained in such a way can be used as well. Then a little Aerospace 303 Protectant on said blue shop paper toweling and cotton swabs and old tooth brushes to dress and protect them finishes this detailing task to perfection.
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Originally Posted by The Guz
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