What to do to just preserve and enhance

[Astouffer512]

My beater equinox died on me last night so I borrowed my in law’s fusion until we go buy an SUV.

My in laws are planning on selling it and want me to detail it up the best I can upon returning it so they can sell it.

I know this is clear coat failure on the hood, and I can’t do anything to fix it, but can I go over the hood with an AIO and then top it with something? Or what should I do?




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[TroyScherer]

You could try an AIO but I would do it by hand at first and be super careful. The fact that it is already popped and pealing you could make it worse.

Personally I would find a spray wax and maybe just a filler glaze to cover it up as best as possible. Abrasives in this case might not be the best option.

[Stokdgs]

Astouffer512 --
Sorry to hear your Equinox died - is there any hope for recovery ?

Your In-laws Fusion - wow, looks pretty bad on the hood. Hopefully, the rest of the paint is ok..
I would go over it with something, not to try to fix it, but to at least make it shine where it still can; not perfectly clear, but just clean and shiny, and call that part done..

If you have access to Meguiars Nbr-7 Show Car Glaze, it is a great temporary, product, that is easy to apply and remove.. I am sure there are other products out there too..

The rest, Interior, Engine and Compartment, inside the Trunk, the rest of the vehicle, I would make look better.

Perhaps, whoever looks at it will really be impressed with how great it looks inside and that will matter more to them than the paintwork issues..

Hope this and your Equinox gets sorted out for you guys..
Dan F

[acuRAS82]

Or use a non-abrasive paint cleaner with non-abrasive pad (LC black or red for instance). That will clear up some grime and hopefully prep it. Then LSP (and glaze in between if you prefer, but most paint cleaners also have oils to beautify).

[Astouffer512]

Or use a non-abrasive paint cleaner with non-abrasive pad (LC black or red for instance). That will clear up some grime and hopefully prep it. Then LSP (and glaze in between if you prefer, but most paint cleaners also have oils to beautify).

That was kind of my thoughts...I have some CG`s blacklight I was thinking of using with a finishing pad and then just LSP`ing on top

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[Astouffer512]

Astouffer512 --
Sorry to hear your Equinox died - is there any hope for recovery ?

Your In-laws Fusion - wow, looks pretty bad on the hood. Hopefully, the rest of the paint is ok..
I would go over it with something, not to try to fix it, but to at least make it shine where it still can; not perfectly clear, but just clean and shiny, and call that part done..

If you have access to Meguiars Nbr-7 Show Car Glaze, it is a great temporary, product, that is easy to apply and remove.. I am sure there are other products out there too..

The rest, Interior, Engine and Compartment, inside the Trunk, the rest of the vehicle, I would make look better.

Perhaps, whoever looks at it will really be impressed with how great it looks inside and that will matter more to them than the paintwork issues..

Hope this and your Equinox gets sorted out for you guys..
Dan F

Well on the equinox....no it`s gone. It was an `05 with 180k miles on it. It lived a good life, but wasn`t worth putting any money into it. I assumed it was either the fuel pump or the timing belt, and when I looked at the value of the vehicle and thoughts from the garage on what it would cost to fix it became a no brainer for me. Time to move on.

The hood of the Fusion is the only area I can see with any clear coat failure. My father in law retired from being a crane operator last year so the car was driven and used hard. At least I have a car to drive with A/C right now so I am grateful.
I`ll clean it up the bezt I can for them to get the most value out of if.

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[Accumulator]

Astoufer512- Glad you`re into something with A/C. This is similar to the trashed beaters we`d sometimes get at the dealership and/or some of the Service Loaners I got from EuroCar back in the day; vehicles that could only be fixed with a paintgun but needed to be improved to some extent. I`d do, and *not* do, the same things now that I did back then:

First, what I would *not* do: I wouldn`t use a black LC pad, too soft and too easily/readily loaded-up. I`d use the most aggressive pad that doesn`t have any cut in-and-of itself. I wouldn`t worry about "taking off more" paint because any diffs will be of no consequence at this point. I wouldn`t use M07 either.

FWIW, I usually used the Cyclo with their Green Polishing Pads.

If working Via PC/etc. I`d use something like a LC Tangerine Hydrotech (or whatever they`re called these days) and use some AIO with cut (e.g. ZAIO) and I`d buff it off before it dries all the way. Then I`d top that with the most durable product that`ll work without a genuine setup/flash-off/"let it dry" approach (letting it dry all the way before buffing will leave "white product" residue. (Most of my LSPs will work OK that way even if they don`t last quite as long as they would`ve had they been allowed to dry.)

[Astouffer512]

Astoufer512- Glad you`re into something with A/C. This is similar to the trashed beaters we`d sometimes get at the dealership and/or some of the Service Loaners I got from EuroCar back in the day; vehicles that could only be fixed with a paintgun but needed to be improved to some extent. I`d do, and *not* do, the same things now that I did back then:

First, what I would *not* do: I wouldn`t use a black LC pad, too soft and too easily/readily loaded-up. I`d use the most aggressive pad that doesn`t have any cut in-and-of itself. I wouldn`t worry about "taking off more" paint because any diffs will be of no consequence at this point. I wouldn`t use M07 either.

FWIW, I usually used the Cyclo with their Green Polishing Pads.

If working Via PC/etc. I`d use something like a LC Tangerine Hydrotech (or whatever they`re called these days) and use some AIO with cut (e.g. ZAIO) and I`d buff it off before it dries all the way. Then I`d top that with the most durable product that`ll work without a genuine setup/flash-off/"let it dry" approach (letting it dry all the way before buffing will leave "white product" residue. (Most of my LSPs will work OK that way even if they don`t last quite as long as they would`ve had they been allowed to dry.)

Ordered some 3D speed and some Buf and Shine Uro-tec yellow polishing pads.

Thanks for the advice

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[Astouffer512]

Astouffer512 --
Sorry to hear your Equinox died - is there any hope for recovery ?

Your In-laws Fusion - wow, looks pretty bad on the hood. Hopefully, the rest of the paint is ok..
I would go over it with something, not to try to fix it, but to at least make it shine where it still can; not perfectly clear, but just clean and shiny, and call that part done..

If you have access to Meguiars Nbr-7 Show Car Glaze, it is a great temporary, product, that is easy to apply and remove.. I am sure there are other products out there too..

The rest, Interior, Engine and Compartment, inside the Trunk, the rest of the vehicle, I would make look better.

Perhaps, whoever looks at it will really be impressed with how great it looks inside and that will matter more to them than the paintwork issues..

Hope this and your Equinox gets sorted out for you guys..
Dan F

This might be a good candidate to try out the enzymatic cleaner I just picked up from Adam`s on my last order.

Like you said get the interior looking as good as possible for them

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[John U]

If the roof and trunk are okay, is there a cheap, do it yourself, wrap to lay over it. Satin black.

[Astouffer512]

I`ll assume with the clearcoat failure on the hood I dont want to do any sort of mechanical decontamination like claying, but rather just a chemical decon of that area?

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[Accumulator]

I`ll assume with the clearcoat failure on the hood I dont want to do any sort of mechanical decontamination like claying, but rather just a chemical decon of that area?

Do whatever you want in that regard, it shouldn`t matter at this point. The thing to watch out for is the same potential "!oops!" as with the Speed/etc. namely residue getting stuck on the damaged areas, so watch out for that if you clay it. Although I`ve never used one, this might be a good use for the Decontamination Towels if you have one of those.

Any concerns about "doing additional damage" are a moot point IMO...that`s not gonna get appreciably worse compared to how it already is. I`d be all about avoiding making any additional work for yourself, and IMO that`s most likely to occur if you get something stuck on the uneven remains of the damaged paint.

[pgp]

What about the option of throwing another hood on it from a junkyard if you can find one ? That might go against true detailing in some eyes.

[grovlet]

Maybe try your hand at wet sanding the hood - no fear of going through the clear.... I would think that would make it look even - might not look the same as the rest of the car though...

Other option would be a rattle can paint job on the hood - which may also work if you pick a something to highlight the rest of the vehicle....

Either option would be to get an even appearance - might not be a color match.

[jrock645]

No quick way to help that hood. Pressure wash it to flake off as much failing clear as you can. Then sand off the remaining. Treat the paint as single stage and polish until shiny. THats gonna take all day.