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  1. #16

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    Re: Coating cure times

    Desertnate- Ah, good explanations of how it went for you, appreciate the info.

    Some day they`re gonna address all my Coating concerns and I`ll probably be jumping on the bandwagon..either those or the Ceramics.

  2. #17

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    Re: Coating cure times

    To your point Accumulator, I`ve also thought about just applying a ceramic spray sealant to that small area or just learning to live with the scratch that no one but my OCD self will notice.

  3. #18

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    Re: Coating cure times

    c5longhorn- Heh heh, I probably think more about my fellow Autopians spending time on this stuff than they do! It would be great if you could find a quick/easy solution to that little area. And/but hey, if it doesn`t bother *YOU* that`s all that counts in my book

    And FWIW, I`ve found that I can happily live with a whole lotta flaws that I used to consider important. This stuff only matters as much as we let it.
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  4. #19

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    Re: Coating cure times

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    And FWIW, I`ve found that I can happily live with a whole lotta flaws that I used to consider important. This stuff only matters as much as we let it.
    Wise words for life in general...far beyond detailing our vehicles.
    Drop by to see the latest atThe Car Geek Blog
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  5. #20

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    Re: Coating cure times

    Desertnate- Funny how swell life can be when you approach the whole thing in a way that works for ya

    My game, my rules. Nobody else has to play any more than I have to play in their games.

  6. #21

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    Re: Coating cure times

    I`ll post back when I get around to polishing the spot. I will tape off so that I`m working with a really small area and stay only in recessed area. I did 3 cars so will probably inspect the others so I can knock them out at one time.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  7. #22

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    Re: Coating cure times

    c5longhorn- Fingers crossed that everything goes smoothly.

    FWIW, I myself wouldn`t tape it, I`d just be careful about where I got stuff...
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  8. #23

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    Re: Coating cure times

    You wouldn`t tape it to repolish?

    Sent from my SHT-W09 using Tapatalk

  9. #24

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    Re: Coating cure times

    Quote Originally Posted by c5longhorn View Post
    You wouldn`t tape it to repolish?
    No.

    I`d do the Polishing by hand since it`s a small area, and I`ve (literally, as best I can recall) never needed/used tape when doing that; I just avoid the areas I don`t want to mess with.

    But that`s just me and I sure don`t want to give advice that could cause you trouble!
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  10. #25
    dansautodetailing.com Stokdgs's Avatar
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    Re: Coating cure times

    Quote Originally Posted by c5longhorn View Post
    You wouldn`t tape it to repolish?

    Sent from my SHT-W09 using Tapatalk
    c5longhorn - I also never tape around any area to re-compound-polish-etc., it.. If you use a machine, and compound/polish all the way to the tape, you might leave a "ridge" all around that area when you pull the tape off..

    I sometimes, use a 1-inch backing plate and pad and carefully, really carefully, touch that spot, just enough to take out very small, defects that somehow got missed..

    Hand polishing with 1 finger and a very soft, clean, white, cotton, cloth has always been better for me, when even the tiny pad just can`t get in there..
    Dan F
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  11. #26

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    Re: Coating cure times

    Thanks Accumulator and Stokdgs. I really appreciate the input. I did also consider polishing by hand, but dismissed it at first as I didn`t think I achieved much correction when polishing by hand. I have M205 and Griot`s Perfecting Cream that I could use by hand on either a Lake County White or Orange 3.5 in. pad. I also could use a soft cotton applicator. It would be much simpler for such a small area.

    Any particular tips or techniques when hand polishing?
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  12. #27

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    Re: Coating cure times

    Quote Originally Posted by Stokdgs View Post
    c5longhorn - I also never tape around any area to re-compound-polish-etc., it.. If you use a machine, and compound/polish all the way to the tape, you might leave a "ridge" all around that area when you pull the tape off..

    I sometimes, use a 1-inch backing plate and pad and carefully, really carefully, touch that spot, just enough to take out very small, defects that somehow got missed..

    Hand polishing with 1 finger and a very soft, clean, white, cotton, cloth has always been better for me, when even the tiny pad just can`t get in there..
    Dan F
    Dan,

    What brand of 1 in. backing plate and pads do you use? I have a Griot`s 3.5 in. polisher that I could probably add a small backing plate and pad combo to for tight spots.

  13. #28

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    Re: Coating cure times

    Quote Originally Posted by c5longhorn View Post
    I did also consider polishing by hand, but dismissed it at first as I didn`t think I achieved much correction when polishing by hand..
    Any particular tips or techniques when hand polishing?.
    Yes indeed, it can take a long, *long* time But with today`s stuff it`s not as bad as it used to be back when I`d spend literally *hours* (and I don`t mean just two or three) on things like fingernail scratches behind door handles.

    I have M205 and Griot`s Perfecting Cream that I could use by hand on either a Lake County White or Orange 3.5 in. pad...
    I wouldn`t even use a 1" pad by machine, I`d absolutely do this by hand. (Note that Stokdgs is a Rotary-Meister who`d do that little job with that machine.)

    Regulars here can already hear my usual rant about how I hate M205...[INSERT usual rant...]. Specifically, I wouldn`t want to deal with the Polishing Oils (especially on this particular job) or bothering to finish up with something that leaves it nicer. OK..that`s just me again and others love the stuff (wish they`d buy my gallon!).

    BUT...I wouldn`t immediately reach for M205 for this anyhow since you`re correcting a scratch. I wouldn`t expect M205, used by hand to be sufficiently aggressive, at least not for doing this in a timely manner. While people do sometimes go off-label and do Correction with it, it`s a *Finishing Polish* that I only use to refine things after using a more aggressive combo has done the actual correction (and then I still have to follow up with something that finishes out better as M205 has never really satisfied me).

    I`d work by hand, using something with sufficient cut to do the Correction in a timely manner, and then follow up with a milder approach.

    I also could use a soft cotton applicator. It would be much simpler for such a small area.
    Every time I`ve polished using cotton I`ve had to follow up with MF to get the optimal finish. That might make the initial/more aggressive work, where you`re actually correcting the scratch, go quicker, just switch the the MF or foam *just before* you have the scratch completely eradicated. Finish the Correction with MF (or a little piece of foam), and use something like that with your Finishing Polish. That`ll not only give a good finish, but oughta be a good way to split the diff between "aggressive enough" and "able to finish out nicely".
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  14. #29

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    Re: Coating cure times

    Oh yeah, I`ve read one of your M205 rants. Again, appreciate the advice.

  15. #30
    dansautodetailing.com Stokdgs's Avatar
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    Re: Coating cure times

    Quote Originally Posted by c5longhorn View Post
    Dan,

    What brand of 1 in. backing plate and pads do you use? I have a Griot`s 3.5 in. polisher that I could probably add a small backing plate and pad combo to for tight spots.
    c5Longhorn -- I use Lake Country Backing Plates and Lake Country Hydro-Tech Cyan Pads for most correction work. You may have to look for these things.

    I found here at the Autopia Store, these -- https://www.autopia-carcare.com/buff...l#.XsMDXkSpH3g

    https://www.autopia-carcare.com/uro-...l#.XsMD-kSpH3g

    https://www.autopia-carcare.com/uro-...l#.XsMEJ0SpH3g

    The Backing Plate is for a Rotary, so you will need this adapter -- https://www.autogeek.net/buff-and-shine-da-adapter.html

    I assume, they do not make a Random Orbital backing plate in the smaller sizes, so the only other option is the adapter above..

    Regarding the scratch on the Viper, is this scratch so deep it needs a machine to remove it? I would always first try to remove anything with the least aggressive process first, and if no results, start ramping up.. This also applies to the product you choose to use..

    I think you are using Griot`s products, so perhaps their Fast Correcting Cream, or their Correcting Cream would work for you..

    I cannot really see the scratch that well in your picture. I would always try to remove it by hand as I explained earlier, and be really, really, careful near any sharp edge, which will always have the least amount of paint on that edge..
    Dan F
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