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  1. #16
    dschribs's Avatar
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    Re: New Car Questions (FK1000p, etc)

    You most likely won`t find Iron X over the counter. If you have an Autozone or Advanced Auto near you - I think they both carry Meguiar`s "Professional" ready to use products. You can grab Meguiarís Iron Removing Spray "Clay" - Industrial Fallout & Iron Remover. It`s similar to Iron X in that it dissolves embedded iron contamination & industrial fallout.

    Rather than using Eraser - you can do an alcohol wipe down. Did that for years before Eraser was even invented. Although it might be tough to find isopropyl alcohol nowadays...

    https://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-...-ipa-wipedown/

    Congrats on the new car!!!

  2. #17

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    Re: New Car Questions (FK1000p, etc)

    Good luck finding the Eagle One product, it is hard for me to find in my area. Definitely do your homework to see what store has it, that way you lessen your probability of being exposed to the virus. These products are completely safe for the paint, as long as you do not let them dry. I typically spray the product on the panel, and panel by panel I go around the car. I do multiple laps around the vehicle trying to keep the product wet, by respraying the panels with less product. After a few minutes of lapping the car with the fallout remover, I lightly mist the car with water from the pressure washer. After letting the product continue to dwell, I then foam the car to help evacuate the fallout remover from the paint and crevices. I will say that some trim can experience a little bit of staining if you`re not careful and let it dry. You can always tape the trim if you`re really worried about it.

    Regarding the grease & wax removers, new vehicles cannot escape dirt and grime, environmental fallout, or traffic film. The grease & wax removers really shine when you realize that they really are for any light grease, light oil, or light residual wax that are introduced to the vehicle after it has been properly stripped washed, or may remain on the paint. For example if I was to touch the vehicle with my dirty hand or there was some atomized silicone floating in the air, and it was attracted to the vehicle, or a polish with a high oil content was used on the vehicle, or I have used a clay lubricant that leaves some polymers behind, a grease & wax remover would help me strip the paint of these contaminates. In terms of strip washing, Superior Products Road Warrior is a very safe and economical water based degreaser, I like to use it for strip washing as it is very safe for paint. You should be able to order it through O`Reilly Auto Parts, the product number is C461, and get it within a couple of days. You can also use it to boost your OPT Car Wash. Road Warrior can also function as a cleaner for everything else besides windows, it dilutes all the way to 1:100. I honestly don`t see a need for any type of APC when I have Road Warrior in my arsenal.

    WaxAddict suggested a great process, I would make some amendments:

    Rinse the car
    Working one panel at a time, pretreat the panel with Road Warrior mixed at a dilution of one part product to four parts water, let Road Warrior dwell for about 10-20 seconds
    Work Road Warrior around the panel with a mitt from your bucket full of OPT Car Wash
    Rinse the panel
    Do this process around the entire car, then dry the car

    Apply your fallout remover, rinse the car, then dry it if you experience water spotting
    Spot treat any tar deposits
    Clay the car
    Wipe down with a grease & wax remover

    Then wax the car with FK1000P. Wait 12+ hours. Wax it again.


    Concerning the trim: https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-d...mpressive.html or you can go with 303 Products protectants (rubber, vinyl, etc), they are virtually all the same and can be picked up OTC, search your local outdoor store and auto parts stores.
    Tires: You can use 303 Products protectants for the tires as well, if the product is too shiny you can cut it with water.
    Regarding a wheel cleaner, Superior Products Road Warrior is the answer, highly versatile product.

    Also, if you are in need of some pretty decent wash mitts, the AutoCraft Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitts, found at Advance Auto Parts, are pretty good value and quality.

  3. #18

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    Re: New Car Questions (FK1000p, etc)

    I really appreciate the recommendations. I do have the Meg`s Iron Removing Spray and Road Warrior available local to me. That sounds like it will be my best route.

    How much do you dilute the Road Warrior for cleaning wheels? I don`t want it so strong that it will wear down the FK prematurely.

  4. #19

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    Re: New Car Questions (FK1000p, etc)

    Dilution of Road Warrior for wheels really depends on the level of dirt/brake dust in your world. In my world there have been some instances where 1 part product to 50 parts water has cleaned up the wheels, and there are some instances where 1:10 has been needed. I have a couple of different strengths mixed at the ready, 1:50, 1:31, and 1:10. For wheels/tires that need a cleaning before LSP, I would recommend 1:4. Something to note is that Road Warrior doesn`t produce much of the browning that we see with other tire cleaners, don`t worry about it, the tire is still being cleaned. If you don`t have a scrub brush for tire duty, Libman is a brand that sells a Long Handle Scrub Brush that is green and white, you will find it in the cleaning section of Home Depot, Walmart, your local grocers, etc.

  5. #20

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    Re: New Car Questions (FK1000p, etc)

    Quote Originally Posted by ThatsSoSpursy View Post
    This is a brand new car and to my knowledge, the only thing the dealer has done was wash it. If that is the case, is it safe to assume that the Eraser/Rustoleum/Duplicolor step isn`t quite as important? Not trying to take shortcuts here as I want to do what`s needed but I have never prepped a car for a wax/sealant like this before so just not sure.
    If they washed it I fear it`ll need at least some correction And I wouldn`t expect that to have had any effect whatsoever on any contamination..that Meg`s product is probably what I`d go with in your situation.

    I`d still just use a strong (regular) shampoo mix on the FK`ed wheels...mine clean up fine that way no matter how long I go between washes and it`s convenient to use the same stuff when cleaning the wheel wells/etc. while you`re already down there with it in-hand.

  6. #21

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    Re: New Car Questions (FK1000p, etc)

    UPDATE:

    I did basically everything that was recommended to me. I used the Megs Iron Removing Spray Clay and the Road Warrior APC. I also clayed the car. It went really well and looks really good. I’ll add a second coat of the FK next weekend. By then, I’ll also have the Ultima TTG+ to put on my trim. I definitely appreciate everyone’s input.

    A couple of observations I had:
    It is definitely easier to wax a darker car than a white car.
    I really liked the Optimum Car Wash I used. I have a few more I want to try before I settle on my “go-to”.
    I need to find a good safe brush to get deeper into my wheels. These wheels show the backside more than my other ones so that was never something I had to worry about.
    I definitely didn’t need to skip the decontamination process. I’m glad that was recommended to me from you guys.
    I used GG synthetic clay. It was so easy to use. The car was brand new and therefore not in bad shape so I don’t know how it would do on a more difficult vehicle but it was definitely easy to use.

    I can’t wait to see how the FK holds up and looks long term. I have really enjoyed these forums and look forward to learning more from you guys. Thanks again.
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  7. #22

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    Re: New Car Questions (FK1000p, etc)

    ThatsSoSpursy- So glad it turned out to your satisfaction, that`s gotta be really gratifying. Sounds like you went about it all just right.

    To get deeper into the wheels, i.e., do the barrels, you could look into Wheel Woolies. They work OK for me, but eh..I still reach in there with little mitts anyhow, which also let be do the back sides of the spokes/etc.

  8. #23
    EdLancer's Avatar
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    Re: New Car Questions (FK1000p, etc)

    FK1000P layered with 845IW. I find FK1000P doesn`t give the warmth of 845IW on darker colored cars.

  9. #24

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    Re: New Car Questions (FK1000p, etc)

    Quote Originally Posted by EdLancer View Post
    FK1000P layered with 845IW. I find FK1000P doesn`t give the warmth of 845IW on darker colored cars.
    Agree about the looks of FK1000P on dark colors, although non-Autopians give it more compliments than any other LSP I`ve ever used by an astounding margin (all the complete strangers who come up to comment actually become a little irritating). At best its "sterile sealant look" is something I`ve just gotten used to.

    What was *really* striking to me was how much better Collinite`s 476S looked...never really got "warmth" out of 845 myself and always topped that with 476S on dark colors. Eye-of-beholder and all that...

    I don`t top the FK though, lest I be unable to just apply more when needed (which is all I do for years on end) and, TBH..[WARNING, Autopian Heresy follows!]..I don`t care that much about how my LSPs look any more.
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