Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesStokdgs liked this post
I either use multiple MF towels and OCNR (opti coat no rinse) or standard two buckets with a wash mitt.
I use the Obsessed Garage method of drying. Blow off most the water. Then use a couple Rag company FTW’s (awesome towels FYI) and Bead maker/007 or Opti seal. Not so much a drying aid .. but rather layering a little bit of protection on since my car is coated.
IMO it`s risky to generalize about how much clear is safe to remove, better err on the side of caution.
And remember, it`s not about "going through the clear" as removing a few too many microns will utterly compromise its UV-resistance.
E.g., many "normal scratches" I`ve done have required the removal of six microns for complete correction (I`ve measured that number countless times, still surprises me because it`s so high). Do that more than twice on the last Mazda I had and it`ll be repaint time, even though I could do it on some of my others with no problem at all.
But I`d *NEVER* expect to get away with biannual corrections.
I did not watch the video, too annoying..
The problem with any video like this is that first - we don`t know how many coats of material are on that panel to start with.. It could have been a repaint and generally, in most great shops, the Painter will apply a lot of material to the panel, etc., so that it can be compounded, etc., and there will still be a lot of material on the panel.. How do I know this ? I used to be that Painter..
Then, with all newer cars and new cars from the Factory, it appears that there is less and less material being applied by the Factory now..
No Factory is ever going to tell you how much paint material is being applied to their vehicles.. There is no Factory Paint Standard of total paint material application in microns, that I know of or have seen..
Unless it is the most expensive paint thickness meter like this one - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/defe...l#.XiisXjKQH3g - doing the measuring, all other meters only measure -total thickness- = primer +perhaps a sealer, +color coats, +clear coats..
So while this meter used in the video is good for giving a total thickness measurement, and certainly, the higher the total thickness, the better, you still don`t know how much actual clear coat is left..
These total thickness meters, if can be calibrated to be accurate, are good for showing you how much you just removed of that top clear coat layer when you re-measure after correcting that panel..
Dan F
EDIT: the following is *NOT* an argument with STOKDGS, don`t want anybody misconstruing...
Ford has that info. I`ve received copies of it over the years from [name withheld to protect the helpful], although I haven`t kept up with it the way I should have since my interest in Fords basically ended with the last Crown Vic they built.
Note that it was Ford that came up with the "only safe to remove 2/3 mil" rule-of-thumb too. Guys who recondition LE Crown Vics take off at least a full mil all the time, often more. The cars look fine, but if/when exposed to UV those nice paintjobs are gonna fail. note that guys who do impressive Before/Afters here take off more than *that*....
Sure, you can get away with it if you treat the car right; my `93 Audi has overcorrected paint and even exposed pearlcoat/basecoat/primer and it`s not getting appreciably worse. But I`m not leaving it parked outside all afternoon either.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks