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  1. #1

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    What Supplies Am I Missing?

    Whats sup everyone first post. I used to lurk on the forums awhile back when Scottwax used to post all the time took some time off and now i`m back so I decided to create an account. I just recently purchased a new truck and im trying to get everything I need to keep it looking best so im looking for some recommendations. Im trying to stay within $350-450 on new products. I have all the big stuff such as 5 gallon buckets, step ladders, shop vac, pressure washer, and a PC 7424XP(although I need a new set of pads)....Im going to post what I have in my cart so far, feel free to make other recommendations on things i`m missing. I definitely need some brushes and MF towels.

    Speed Master tire bursh, long handle wheel and tire brush, megs quick interior detail, optimum car wash, pinnacle clay bar, car pro iron x, megs #205 & #105, optimum car wax and opti-seal, finshkare 425 QD, 303, lexol leather cleaner and conditioner, poorboys bug squash, 3d glass cleaner, poorboys natural look dressing, stoner trim shine....Im at about $212 with all of that so I have some room to splurge seeing as how I set aside $450 for new products soooo tell me everyone what other things would you grab, what am i missing?

  2. #2
    Mike The Guz's Avatar
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    Re: What Supplies Am I Missing?

    Skip M105 and get M110. M110 is miles ahead of M105.

    Other options to consider are Sonax Cut Max and EX 04-06. These use diminishing abrasives unlike Meguiar’s.
    Competition Ready Team 1929 Bentley
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  3. #3

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    Re: What Supplies Am I Missing?

    Quote Originally Posted by The Guz View Post
    Skip M105 and get M110. M110 is miles ahead of M105.

    Other options to consider are Sonax Cut Max and EX 04-06. These use diminishing abrasives unlike Meguiar’s.
    Thanks for those recommendations.

  4. #4

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    Re: What Supplies Am I Missing?

    Do NOT buy the Lexol leather care cleaner or conditioner. They do not work as good leather care products in my experience.
    I would substitute those with McKee`s 37 Total Leather Kit (70/30 Leather Shampoo and UV 50 Leather Guard (conditioner/protectant)) or
    Leather Master`s Strong Leather Cleaner Kit.

    Leatherique`s Rejuvenator Oil and Prestine Clean are another option, BUT it is rather a time-intensive process to use them as directed. No, I do not have any experience using them.

    Buy LOTS of foam pads for compound correcting and polish polishing. The "problem" is that in having too few pads, like 2, you will need to stop the correction/polishing process to clean them. You want to have a clean pad as you correct and/or polish and many newbies make the mistake of over-using a pad: it gets too dirty with clear-coat debris and swirls the clear-coat AND it overheats and destroys the adhesive of the hook-and-loop (Velcro) fabric or the foam itself breaks down and the pad life is greatly reduced or unusable. If you have 6-8 pads of that type for correcting or polishing, you can change them out when they get dirty and usually finish out an entire vehicle, depending on the size of the vehicle and how much correction/polishing it needs, THEN clean them all when you are done. My suggestion are the Lake Country`s Hydro-Tech Cyan (Light Blue) for Correcting (cutting) and the Tangerine (Light Orange) for polishing.
    And check your buffer/polishing machine backing plate. If its older and cracking or the hook-and-loop fabric is coming loose, consider buying a new one. It can make a big difference in the end results of and time needed for the correction and polishing processes.
    GB detailer

  5. #5
    Hooked For Life Bill D's Avatar
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    Re: What Supplies Am I Missing?

    Leatherique is only worth going through the process if your leather is really dirty or unconditioned. Leather Master ought to be fine for general cleaning and maintenance
    Treat it like it`s the only one in the world.

  6. #6

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    Re: What Supplies Am I Missing?

    MarkyyDetail- Welcome Back

    I`ll run through your list and offer my takes on some of it...well, more like my Qs about whether you`re really sure you want to use `em and some suggestions about things I like better.

    Quote Originally Posted by MarkyyDetail View Post
    ..[I`m considering ordering]...
    -Speed Master tire bursh- Do you have experience with brushes like that? I hardly ever use mine except for the kind of undercarriage cleaning that most don`t do. I have zero use for it on wheels.

    -long handle wheel and tire brush- Do you *know* that you want the long handle? For the wheels and tires (I`d sure want different types of brushes for those two things!) I find that long handles are *not* what I want, lousy leverage and doing it "standing up instead of crouching down" is an invitation to poor results IMO (of course any mobility issues would factor in).

    -megs #205 & #105- As noted, things have moved on and there are better choices. FWIW, I always hated M205 but liked M105 just fine.

    -optimum car wax and opti-seal, finshkare 425 QD- Why the FK425 if using Optimum? I really like FK425, but I don`t use it over OCW and for the most part I find that a good RinselessWash mixed to QD-strength (I like IUDJ) is *almost* as good for a "leaves stuff behind QD" and is actually better for cleaning things. No issues with IUDJ and OCW being compatible IME, but FK425 isn`t OK over some LSPs (dunno about over the Optimum, never tried it).

    -303- What for? Mine`s just been sitting on the shelf.

    -lexol leather cleaner and conditioner- As noted, you can do a *LOT* better. Their Cleaner isn`t *bad* but it`s nothing great, their conditioner is something I utterly *HATE* and would never use on anything, not even dog leashes (threw mine away and I never do that).

    -stoner trim shine- What for? Not exterior trim I hope

  7. #7
    Ummm.... Ya..... TroyScherer's Avatar
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    Re: What Supplies Am I Missing?

    It a personal preference but I prefer the “EZ Detail Go EZ brush” over the Speed Master brush. The handle and body are all plastic and it is sturdier. But because is plastic it doesn’t bend like the speed master can. Over time I wore off the rubber cap at the end of my speed master and now it is a metal wire end. I also like the Wheel Woolie brushes as well. But it all depends on the wheels you are working on and what you like.
    Many like Opti car wash. Personally I don’t care for it and I prefer ONR or Megs Hyperwash. But there are so many god car soaps out there it’s hard to say what is best.

    Most all clay bars are the same or fine. I would get the mothers clay kit locally sine it has 2 bars, the clay lube and a towel. But I do like the Sonus Ultra-Fine clay and the McKees clay as well.

    I still love the M105/M205 combo. But agree with the others that there are other easier or better options I you don’t do this often.

    I love FK425. But I have moved away from QD’s and now use water-less washes for those quick wipe downs or as a drying aid. I still like Ultima waterless wash

    I agree that I would find something other than Lexol. I use Megs QID or ONR and then Opti leather. (this is for leather and plastics as well)

    Opti seal and car wax are good. I still have and use them. There are some other newer WOWA sealants that are easier to use or look a little better. But once again “find what you like and use it”

    I have PB bug squash. But I find that as long as I am washing my vehicles weekly or even more often I don’t tend to need it mush or at all during certain times of the year.





    If if it is me and I wanted to splurge a little it would be on the washing and drying process since that is what I do most of all. I would get some MF wash pads and some extra/other soaps so I could switch them out and try other stuff. Also drying towels and you detail spray or drying aid of choice is huge. Most swirls happen during drying IMO. So high quality towels and maybe even something like P&S BeadMaker.

    You may also want a wheel and tire cleaner as well. P&S brake buster or some kind of APC.
    Likes MarkyyDetail liked this post

  8. #8

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    Re: What Supplies Am I Missing?

    When it comes to bugs (and bird-bombs too for that matter), I`d go with a LSP that resists etching and readily sheds such stuff during the wash (of course, you can insert my usual fanboy rave about FK1000P here ). I have to use my Bug Juice (I have the old 1Z stuff) on the OCW`ed A8 but not on the vehicles wearing the FK (even if I leave the bugs/etc. on there for ages, as in...months).

    IMO the Sonus SFX clay isn`t as good as it once was. I simply *LOVED* the green version, but my last batch of the gray stuff gets crumbly/etc. even when used with their Glyde Lube (which I really like).

    TroyScherer- Yeah, the Wheel Woolies are good, *all* of their products IMO, glad you mentioned them!

    Their BHB for Wheels is the best I`ve ever used and the Wheel Woolies "wool swabs" are what I use instead of the SpeedMaster/etc. brushes (and I also use `em for other things).
    Likes MarkyyDetail liked this post

  9. #9

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    Re: What Supplies Am I Missing?

    Detailing on a budget:

    MF Towels:
    The Rag Company Pluffles 16"x16" or 16"x23" at qnty: at least three (I like the 16"x23" for windows)
    *Griot`s PFM Edgeless 29"x36" qnty: at least one. Maybe the Luxury Microfiber Edgeless Sucker. I have both of the bordered versions of the PFM and Sucker, I like the PFM because it is a lighter towel and glides across the paint more easily, it also has a nicer/softer border. However, the Sucker does hold more water, which doesn`t matter to me because both are capable of completely drying my car.
    The Rag Company Dry Me a River Waffle Weave Towels 16"x24" qnty: at least four
    The Rag Company Everest 1100 qnty: at least three
    The Rag Company Premium FTW qnty: at least six
    Kirkland Signature Ultra Yellow MF Towels qnty: one 36 pack
    Optimum Big Red Sponge
    The Rag Company Terry MF Applicator sponges, think they come in a five pack
    Autocraft Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitt, qnty: 2

    Chemicals:
    Optimum No Rinse, play with a 32oz bottle before you splurge for the gallon
    Extra Tough Multipurpose Cleaner Degreaser, one gallon at least
    Wolfgang Uber Rinseless Wash (for use as QD), 16oz
    Turtle Wax Seal and Shine, couple bottles (can be combined with Uber Rinseless to make a killer drying aid that rinses well from towels)
    Turtle Wax Ice Compound
    Turtle Wax Ice Quick Interior Detailer, but really you can use the killer drying aid or ONR for as a QID
    Sonax EX 04-06
    Carpro PERL
    Mineral Spirits
    Isopropyl alcohol
    Optimum Polymer Technologies MDR
    ValueGuard ABC system
    Eagle One Black & Plasti-Coat Wheel Cleaner
    Stoners Tarminator
    3M GP Adhesive Cleaner #08984
    Some type of Microfiber detergent, I have had good luck with the combo of All Free & Clear paired with Oxi-Clean
    Distilled Water
    Stoners Trim Shine


    *Meguiar`s Gold Class Shampoo
    *Purple Power Boat & RV
    These two depend on you. I can fully pretreat a vehicle with a mix of ONR and Extra Tough without leaving any residue after the rinse, of course this is with the IK9. I know ONR and Extra Tough can be dispensed using a foam canon. The caveat is that I do not know the dilutions for the foam canon since I didn`t bring my foam canon with me to university. However, at the rate that I have gone through my loose change at the coin-op, I may be bringing it back with me, my next trip home, as well as my PW.

    *If going with the ValueGuard System, I would question whether or not you really need to purchase clay or the Eagle one Plasti Coat Cleaner. If the truck has a good amount of preexisting shine and gloss, I would also question whether or not you really need to purchase multiple types of polishing pads. Maybe purchase a set of Lake Country HDO Black Finishing pads and a bottle of Carpro Essence? If the truck already looks good and isn`t in too bad of shape, I am confident that it can be maintained with six chemicals: Turtle Wax Seal & Shine, Wolfgang Uber Rinseless, OPT ONR, Georgia MelTex Extra Tough, and Carpro PERL; ONR at multiple dilutions from pretreatment to window cleaning, Extra Tough at multiple dilutions from 1:12 for regular tire cleaning to 1:32 for super light dirt. Oddly enough, Extra Tough at 1:32 with 1/2oz ONR makes an impressive pretreatment for washes when the car has been through rain and accumulated dirt.
    *Side note: If the paint is in pretty good condition, I would think about coating it and living with a few swirl marks. A coating will have some level of filling properties. If the truck is going to live a long life as a daily, I would honestly hold off polishing for when it is truly needed to restore shine and gloss, later in its life.

    *Regarding ONR, I am not one of those crazy ONR converts, but I have been using it extensively over the last month and a half, which doesn`t sound like much. But where I am going to university, the elements are rough. It has rained every week, usually in between scheduled washes. We are in semi-desert so the rain is filled with dirt, which leaves quite nice water spots when not cleaned quickly after storm. Otherwise, five minutes after I dry the car, there is a fine layer of dust on the car. The mornings are filled with dew and when combined with the dust, a film of *crust* begins to build on the car. Since my arrival to Lubbock, Texas, August 14, I have already washed the car 14 times. That`s living with it getting dirty immediately after I wash it. In Dallas I could get away with washing my car once a week, and living with the dirt in between washes. ONR and Extra Tough have been life savers. The beginning weeks I would notice a residue after rinsing off a pretreatment of Gold Class or CG Honey Dew Snow Foam, the residue is from the soaps drying so quickly because of the low humidity and hard water that I use for pretreat. ONR and Extra Tough have almost eliminated the residue from pretreatment, leaving the surface pretty clean and only needing touch over with ONR at 256:1 and the Big Red Sponge. In case you`re weary about love marks from the wash process, proper pretreatment and use of ONR does no damage to my medium-soft, 17 yr old Lexus paint, the only damage I have inflicted has come from experimenting with drying aids using my drying towels. The only drying aid I have found slick enough is Uber Rinseless at 1:29 with two oz of TW SNS, not the glossiest combo but leaves the car looking pretty good. My next step will be coating the car at some point; I don`t see a need to change any of the chemicals when maintaining the coating.


    Tools:
    Single Grit Guard
    Single Detail Guards Dirt Lock
    Gamma Seal Lid from Home Depot
    Detail Factory brushes
    Big EZ Detail Brush
    Small Mothers Wheel Brush (for tire dressing)
    Chemical Guys Wheel Brush, short handle (wheel cleaning)
    Mothers Wheel Brush, long handle
    Wheel Woolies set of three brushes plus the big angled brush
    Any set of regular detail brushes, paint brush style
    The Foam Canon that Auto Fanatic will be private labeling, you can find the regular label on Amazon for less than $50
    5 Gallon Carboy for Distilled or Filtered Water (for chemicals) [or multiple single gallon reusable containers, get your filtered water from whatever place is close to you. Buying Distilled water at the grocery store is much more expensive than buying reusable containers and getting filtered water for $0.25/gal.]
    Air Vent Brush thingys, Amazon them, they are basically Blinds brushes
    Qnty 10 Tolco Spray Heads and 32oz Bottles from US. Plastics, or twelve.
    Scott`s 2 Gal Weed Sprayer from HD
    *If you need light clay, the parts store kits are fine. Otherwise Meguiar`s Professional Medium Grade or 3M Perfect It are better options.

    And yes, I did write this instead of studying for the two tests I have next week. Sometimes I think it`s important for me to impart knowledge that I have and others don`t.

    Concerning Opti-Seal and OPT Car Wax, both good products, but when used economically they don`t provide me enough slickness or durability, one reason why there are now towel marks in the areas of my car that I used them as drying aids. Well, I mixed two oz OPT CW with 1:29 ONRWW. Not slick enough. Wolfgang Uber and TW SNS is the way to go. But why does ONR at 1:256/BRS leave no love marks whereas two oz OPT CW with 1:29 ONRWW, leave love marks when drying? I`ll have to think about it. Maybe love marks were left because the towel was dry, even though I liberally sprayed with the OPT CW/ONRWW mix?

    As others say, FK1000P is a pretty good LSP for resisting etching. But for the way that I clean my car due to the dirt that I am now seeing in LBK, the few FK1000P panels have not lasted long. The resistance to chemicals just isn`t there like the Seal and Shine.

  10. #10

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    Re: What Supplies Am I Missing?

    Quote Originally Posted by TroyScherer View Post
    It a personal preference but I prefer the “EZ Detail Go EZ brush” over the Speed Master brush. The handle and body are all plastic and it is sturdier. But because is plastic it doesn’t bend like the speed master can. Over time I wore off the rubber cap at the end of my speed master and now it is a metal wire end. I also like the Wheel Woolie brushes as well. But it all depends on the wheels you are working on and what you like.

    Many like Opti car wash. Personally I don’t care for it and I prefer ONR or Megs Hyperwash. But there are so many god car soaps out there it’s hard to say what is best.

    Most all clay bars are the same or fine. I would get the mothers clay kit locally sine it has 2 bars, the clay lube and a towel. But I do like the Sonus Ultra-Fine clay and the McKees clay as well.

    I still love the M105/M205 combo. But agree with the others that there are other easier or better options I you don’t do this often.

    I love FK425. But I have moved away from QD’s and now use water-less washes for those quick wipe downs or as a drying aid. I still like Ultima waterless wash

    I agree that I would find something other than Lexol. I use Megs QID or ONR and then Opti leather. (this is for leather and plastics as well)

    Opti seal and car wax are good. I still have and use them. There are some other newer WOWA sealants that are easier to use or look a little better. But once again “find what you like and use it”

    I have PB bug squash. But I find that as long as I am washing my vehicles weekly or even more often I don’t tend to need it mush or at all during certain times of the year.





    If if it is me and I wanted to splurge a little it would be on the washing and drying process since that is what I do most of all. I would get some MF wash pads and some extra/other soaps so I could switch them out and try other stuff. Also drying towels and you detail spray or drying aid of choice is huge. Most swirls happen during drying IMO. So high quality towels and maybe even something like P&S BeadMaker.

    You may also want a wheel and tire cleaner as well. P&S brake buster or some kind of APC.
    Assorted vacuums caps from one of the local parts stores can remedy the worn rubber cap.

  11. #11

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    Re: What Supplies Am I Missing?

    Sonax foaming leather cleaner is fantastic for leather. It`s inexpensive and easy to use. I use to do a multiple product 2 step process to clean my leather. Not knocking other products. I have Leatherique in my cabinet, but I don`t wanna spend all day doing something lol. If you`re interested in doing waterless or rinseless, Wolfgang UBER Rinseless is really good stuff.

  12. #12

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    Re: What Supplies Am I Missing?

    Quote Originally Posted by Lonnie View Post
    Do NOT buy the Lexol leather care cleaner or conditioner. They do not work as good leather care products in my experience.
    I would substitute those with McKee`s 37 Total Leather Kit (70/30 Leather Shampoo and UV 50 Leather Guard (conditioner/protectant)) or
    Leather Master`s Strong Leather Cleaner Kit.

    Leatherique`s Rejuvenator Oil and Prestine Clean are another option, BUT it is rather a time-intensive process to use them as directed. No, I do not have any experience using them.

    Buy LOTS of foam pads for compound correcting and polish polishing. The "problem" is that in having too few pads, like 2, you will need to stop the correction/polishing process to clean them. You want to have a clean pad as you correct and/or polish and many newbies make the mistake of over-using a pad: it gets too dirty with clear-coat debris and swirls the clear-coat AND it overheats and destroys the adhesive of the hook-and-loop (Velcro) fabric or the foam itself breaks down and the pad life is greatly reduced or unusable. If you have 6-8 pads of that type for correcting or polishing, you can change them out when they get dirty and usually finish out an entire vehicle, depending on the size of the vehicle and how much correction/polishing it needs, THEN clean them all when you are done. My suggestion are the Lake Country`s Hydro-Tech Cyan (Light Blue) for Correcting (cutting) and the Tangerine (Light Orange) for polishing.
    And check your buffer/polishing machine backing plate. If its older and cracking or the hook-and-loop fabric is coming loose, consider buying a new one. It can make a big difference in the end results of and time needed for the correction and polishing processes.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill D View Post
    Leatherique is only worth going through the process if your leather is really dirty or unconditioned. Leather Master ought to be fine for general cleaning and maintenance
    Will definitely look into Leather masters and order some up.

  13. #13

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    Re: What Supplies Am I Missing?

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    MarkyyDetail- Welcome Back

    I`ll run through your list and offer my takes on some of it...well, more like my Qs about whether you`re really sure you want to use `em and some suggestions about things I like better.



    -Speed Master tire bursh- Do you have experience with brushes like that? I hardly ever use mine except for the kind of undercarriage cleaning that most don`t do. I have zero use for it on wheels.

    -long handle wheel and tire brush- Do you *know* that you want the long handle? For the wheels and tires (I`d sure want different types of brushes for those two things!) I find that long handles are *not* what I want, lousy leverage and doing it "standing up instead of crouching down" is an invitation to poor results IMO (of course any mobility issues would factor in).

    -megs #205 & #105- As noted, things have moved on and there are better choices. FWIW, I always hated M205 but liked M105 just fine.

    -optimum car wax and opti-seal, finshkare 425 QD- Why the FK425 if using Optimum? I really like FK425, but I don`t use it over OCW and for the most part I find that a good RinselessWash mixed to QD-strength (I like IUDJ) is *almost* as good for a "leaves stuff behind QD" and is actually better for cleaning things. No issues with IUDJ and OCW being compatible IME, but FK425 isn`t OK over some LSPs (dunno about over the Optimum, never tried it).

    -303- What for? Mine`s just been sitting on the shelf.

    -lexol leather cleaner and conditioner- As noted, you can do a *LOT* better. Their Cleaner isn`t *bad* but it`s nothing great, their conditioner is something I utterly *HATE* and would never use on anything, not even dog leashes (threw mine away and I never do that).

    -stoner trim shine- What for? Not exterior trim I hope
    The long handle brush I usually use for cleaning up under the fenderwells.

    What exactly is IUDJ im not familiar with what product that acronym stands for. I can totally see why I might not need the FK425 with optimum spray wax.

    I know back a few years ago some mentioned 303 as being a good product if living in a hotter climate, im in Georgia. Just looking for something to protect any vinyl rubber and plastics.

    Definitely going to ditch the lexol for leather masters.

    and as far as the stoner trim shine, honestly not really sure lmao

  14. #14

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    Re: What Supplies Am I Missing?

    Quote Originally Posted by TheMeanGreen View Post
    Detailing on a budget:

    MF Towels:
    The Rag Company Pluffles 16"x16" or 16"x23" at qnty: at least three (I like the 16"x23" for windows)
    *Griot`s PFM Edgeless 29"x36" qnty: at least one. Maybe the Luxury Microfiber Edgeless Sucker. I have both of the bordered versions of the PFM and Sucker, I like the PFM because it is a lighter towel and glides across the paint more easily, it also has a nicer/softer border. However, the Sucker does hold more water, which doesn`t matter to me because both are capable of completely drying my car.
    The Rag Company Dry Me a River Waffle Weave Towels 16"x24" qnty: at least four
    The Rag Company Everest 1100 qnty: at least three
    The Rag Company Premium FTW qnty: at least six
    Kirkland Signature Ultra Yellow MF Towels qnty: one 36 pack
    Optimum Big Red Sponge
    The Rag Company Terry MF Applicator sponges, think they come in a five pack
    Autocraft Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitt, qnty: 2

    Chemicals:
    Optimum No Rinse, play with a 32oz bottle before you splurge for the gallon
    Extra Tough Multipurpose Cleaner Degreaser, one gallon at least
    Wolfgang Uber Rinseless Wash (for use as QD), 16oz
    Turtle Wax Seal and Shine, couple bottles (can be combined with Uber Rinseless to make a killer drying aid that rinses well from towels)
    Turtle Wax Ice Compound
    Turtle Wax Ice Quick Interior Detailer, but really you can use the killer drying aid or ONR for as a QID
    Sonax EX 04-06
    Carpro PERL
    Mineral Spirits
    Isopropyl alcohol
    Optimum Polymer Technologies MDR
    ValueGuard ABC system
    Eagle One Black & Plasti-Coat Wheel Cleaner
    Stoners Tarminator
    3M GP Adhesive Cleaner #08984
    Some type of Microfiber detergent, I have had good luck with the combo of All Free & Clear paired with Oxi-Clean
    Distilled Water
    Stoners Trim Shine


    *Meguiar`s Gold Class Shampoo
    *Purple Power Boat & RV
    These two depend on you. I can fully pretreat a vehicle with a mix of ONR and Extra Tough without leaving any residue after the rinse, of course this is with the IK9. I know ONR and Extra Tough can be dispensed using a foam canon. The caveat is that I do not know the dilutions for the foam canon since I didn`t bring my foam canon with me to university. However, at the rate that I have gone through my loose change at the coin-op, I may be bringing it back with me, my next trip home, as well as my PW.

    *If going with the ValueGuard System, I would question whether or not you really need to purchase clay or the Eagle one Plasti Coat Cleaner. If the truck has a good amount of preexisting shine and gloss, I would also question whether or not you really need to purchase multiple types of polishing pads. Maybe purchase a set of Lake Country HDO Black Finishing pads and a bottle of Carpro Essence? If the truck already looks good and isn`t in too bad of shape, I am confident that it can be maintained with six chemicals: Turtle Wax Seal & Shine, Wolfgang Uber Rinseless, OPT ONR, Georgia MelTex Extra Tough, and Carpro PERL; ONR at multiple dilutions from pretreatment to window cleaning, Extra Tough at multiple dilutions from 1:12 for regular tire cleaning to 1:32 for super light dirt. Oddly enough, Extra Tough at 1:32 with 1/2oz ONR makes an impressive pretreatment for washes when the car has been through rain and accumulated dirt.
    *Side note: If the paint is in pretty good condition, I would think about coating it and living with a few swirl marks. A coating will have some level of filling properties. If the truck is going to live a long life as a daily, I would honestly hold off polishing for when it is truly needed to restore shine and gloss, later in its life.

    *Regarding ONR, I am not one of those crazy ONR converts, but I have been using it extensively over the last month and a half, which doesn`t sound like much. But where I am going to university, the elements are rough. It has rained every week, usually in between scheduled washes. We are in semi-desert so the rain is filled with dirt, which leaves quite nice water spots when not cleaned quickly after storm. Otherwise, five minutes after I dry the car, there is a fine layer of dust on the car. The mornings are filled with dew and when combined with the dust, a film of *crust* begins to build on the car. Since my arrival to Lubbock, Texas, August 14, I have already washed the car 14 times. That`s living with it getting dirty immediately after I wash it. In Dallas I could get away with washing my car once a week, and living with the dirt in between washes. ONR and Extra Tough have been life savers. The beginning weeks I would notice a residue after rinsing off a pretreatment of Gold Class or CG Honey Dew Snow Foam, the residue is from the soaps drying so quickly because of the low humidity and hard water that I use for pretreat. ONR and Extra Tough have almost eliminated the residue from pretreatment, leaving the surface pretty clean and only needing touch over with ONR at 256:1 and the Big Red Sponge. In case you`re weary about love marks from the wash process, proper pretreatment and use of ONR does no damage to my medium-soft, 17 yr old Lexus paint, the only damage I have inflicted has come from experimenting with drying aids using my drying towels. The only drying aid I have found slick enough is Uber Rinseless at 1:29 with two oz of TW SNS, not the glossiest combo but leaves the car looking pretty good. My next step will be coating the car at some point; I don`t see a need to change any of the chemicals when maintaining the coating.


    Tools:
    Single Grit Guard
    Single Detail Guards Dirt Lock
    Gamma Seal Lid from Home Depot
    Detail Factory brushes
    Big EZ Detail Brush
    Small Mothers Wheel Brush (for tire dressing)
    Chemical Guys Wheel Brush, short handle (wheel cleaning)
    Mothers Wheel Brush, long handle
    Wheel Woolies set of three brushes plus the big angled brush
    Any set of regular detail brushes, paint brush style
    The Foam Canon that Auto Fanatic will be private labeling, you can find the regular label on Amazon for less than $50
    5 Gallon Carboy for Distilled or Filtered Water (for chemicals) [or multiple single gallon reusable containers, get your filtered water from whatever place is close to you. Buying Distilled water at the grocery store is much more expensive than buying reusable containers and getting filtered water for $0.25/gal.]
    Air Vent Brush thingys, Amazon them, they are basically Blinds brushes
    Qnty 10 Tolco Spray Heads and 32oz Bottles from US. Plastics, or twelve.
    Scott`s 2 Gal Weed Sprayer from HD
    *If you need light clay, the parts store kits are fine. Otherwise Meguiar`s Professional Medium Grade or 3M Perfect It are better options.

    And yes, I did write this instead of studying for the two tests I have next week. Sometimes I think it`s important for me to impart knowledge that I have and others don`t.

    Concerning Opti-Seal and OPT Car Wax, both good products, but when used economically they don`t provide me enough slickness or durability, one reason why there are now towel marks in the areas of my car that I used them as drying aids. Well, I mixed two oz OPT CW with 1:29 ONRWW. Not slick enough. Wolfgang Uber and TW SNS is the way to go. But why does ONR at 1:256/BRS leave no love marks whereas two oz OPT CW with 1:29 ONRWW, leave love marks when drying? I`ll have to think about it. Maybe love marks were left because the towel was dry, even though I liberally sprayed with the OPT CW/ONRWW mix?

    As others say, FK1000P is a pretty good LSP for resisting etching. But for the way that I clean my car due to the dirt that I am now seeing in LBK, the few FK1000P panels have not lasted long. The resistance to chemicals just isn`t there like the Seal and Shine.

    I truly appreciate you taking time away from studying and writing this up. None of this will go to waste.....Whats your favorite brand of APC?

  15. #15

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    Re: What Supplies Am I Missing?

    Quote Originally Posted by MarkyyDetail View Post
    I truly appreciate you taking time away from studying and writing this up. None of this will go to waste.....Whats your favorite brand of APC?
    Georgia MelTex Extra Tough Multipurpose Cleaner Degreaser.

    Dilutions that I have found work for me:
    Product:Clean Water
    1:1 or Full strength- completely trashed tires, trashed engines, and under carriage.
    1:10- Well Maintained wheels, tires, and wheel wells and engine bays; (weekly washes). Good for environments that do see a lot of dust or rain. Interior carpet pretreatment, adjust as needed. Great for pretty dirty interiors, adjust as needed.
    1:12 or 1:15- Well maintained wheels, tires, wheel wells, and engine bays; (weekly washes) environments that do not see a lot of dirt or rain.
    [The dilutions ranging 1:10 to 1:15 will leave the wheel perfectly clean, if LSP’d, and the tire clean enough to present as clean but still allow a build up of dressing so that the dressing can absorb into the tire (Same with 1:10). LSPing the wheel: CarPro Hydro2 or Megs HCW are very economical choices, not to mention easy to apply.]
    1:20- Great pretreatment for somewhat dirty exterior tasks, works well for drivers compartment cleaning, moderate accumulation of dirt in door jambs.
    1:32- Really great pretreatment when mixed with 1/2oz ONR for well maintained/ protected vehicles. Also works well for maintained door jambs and interior wipe downs.

    The 1oz ET:32oz tap water:1/2oz ONR works well in the IK9, for a well maintained car. Dilution for the foam canon, I would guess to be 4oz ET:1oz ONR: rest distilled or filtered water, may even be able to omit the ONR. For doorjambs, rinse the cleaner as it`s not a great lubricant.

    With Extra tough and its dilutions, I don’t see a need for a dedicated APC. Yes, ET is rather expensive, but compared to OPT Power Clean, it’s much more versatile and is safe on the applied surface. ET’s performance outshines its cost, and I think the time it saves by not having worry about damaging residues is worth the price of admission. Plus Georgia MelTex has free shipping on orders over $40, which is more incentive.

    Disclaimers:
    ET is not the greatest lubricant for exterior paint, it needs supplementing by way of ONR or some other rinseless wash, but rinsing is the best action.
    These are dilutions that work in my world.
    If doing a full rinseless wash on a well maintained vehicle, I would pretreat using the 1:32:0.5, rinse the vehicle, and then reapply to do single bucket ONR wash.

    Note: ONR/Extra Tough has really replaced my use of Chemical Guys Honey Dew Snow Foam and 3D Pink car shampoo. I do keep Meguiar’s Gold Class and Purple Power Boat & RV on hand for “just one case” moments.

 

 
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