When you spray an IronX product on a clean paint with no oxidized iron particals on it. It`s ph neutral. But when you have oxidized iron particals on the paint and the reaction with the ironx is accuring that gets acidic. Before the IronX products there where acid to get the oxidized iron particals to desolve. Oxalic acid was the most used when doing this. Some acid wheel cleaners uses this still. Most of the bleeding wheel cleaners is just not concentrate enough IMO to be an effective iron remover. Sure you will see the bleeding effect. But does it desolve enough of the oxidized iron particals so they releases. Even some of the ironx products don`t do that either. And then of cause it`s the level of oxidized iron particals in that how long and how much the oxidation has been going on. If you where to use an iron remover as frequently as a wheel cleaner on the paint. You would not let to oxidize long and many bleeding iron remover would work good. But doing it once or twice a year you would like some effective ones. The Carpro IronX is known for being very effective and is in the top tier of bleeding iron removers. The one I have seen that makes IronX a run for it`s money is Bilt Hamber Korrosol. That would be very interesting to see how the newer iron remover products is standing up to them. I for an example have used a domestic brand of iron remover. And even if I got a great bleeding effect the first application. I sprayed it on a second time and got it to bleed again. And that says that the oxidized part of the iron partical has not been desolved thoroughly. Even if you get it to stop bleeding. It`s not a profe that the remaining iron partical has been released from the paint. That`s why a claying afterwards is a good thing to do to be certain to get it out of the clearcoat. <br>The oxalic acid that was used in the past took a long time to desolve the oxidized iron particals. And think that something like the acid in the Meguiars Wheel Brightener D140 is desolving the oxidized iron particals faster. But if you have the time and stay away from the clear plastic as headlights. The oxalic acid will be doing the work eventually. That`s the downside with most acidic chemicals that it haze clear plastic and etch the glass. And even haze the clearcoat some will do. So that`s why the bleeding iron remover has been a safer choice to use.<br><br>For heavy contaminants of iron particals I would use IronX. If I where to test another one I would be doing a test spot after the first application and see how it worked and I do that with IronX too lol. One thing that makes them more effective is aggitations with them. That makes me interested in the chemical resistant clay bars that Gyeon and Britemax has. To do the IronX products and the claying at the same time seems also to be time effective. And this is on paints that has not seen any iron remover for a long time. One thing that I do is also to do a tar remover before I apply the iron remover. This is so what ever oil based dirt around the iron particals is getting off first. So most of the iron particals get to be rinsed off after the oxidized part of the iron partical has been desolved. It`s getting more common to wash before rinsing off the IronX products. The only problem with that is a higher risk that the iron particals trapped in the wash mitt marring the paint. And that it could be embedded in the wash mitt even after a wash of it. So I would use a mitt that I could toss afterwards if doing that.
If you want to have an iron remover that just works I would go with Carpro IronX. Then of cause it`s others that works too. But on heavy contaminants of iron particals I would not take the chance with another product. If you used IronX on your car before and looking for more product I would test another product. But I either way do a test spot on some places I have seen it bleed more.
/Tony
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