Excellent!
Excellent!
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesRaskyR1 liked this post
The most important specs as I have understand it is the CRI. It`s suposed to be cri 95. Saw that one light that was linked to in the thread had cri 97. So don`t know if it`s a difference to the better with a higher cri value. Scangrip has their lights at CRI 95.
One light that can reveal swirls good are the yellow/orange kind on gas stations and parking lots. Especially white and silver and those other lighter shades. Wonders if something like that light can be used as a second inspection on the paint. The sun is still best but don`t available all of the time.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesStokdgs liked this post
great posts, guys. thanks for the input.
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swetm- I simulate the "parking lot lights at night" by using a bare incandescent bulb in an otherwise dark room, sometimes switching to the SunGun even though it`s "color matching"/etc. is of zero importance to me.
I do toy with the idea of upgrading to LEDs some times, but honestly I can spot *everything* on my vehicles (from the silver ones to the dark blue Audi) just fine. When Mike Phillips teased me about being "unrealistically critical" I knew my inspection regimen was dialed-in
I find natural sunlight good for *some* things, but certain flaws are invisible to me until I do the Dark Field/Point Source types of inspection.
Don`t forget about this thread - DIY LED Work Light (much better than halogen!). Lots of good information about building an inexpensive set of LED stand lights. Looks like the bulbs (5000K PAR38) can be had for less than $15 each now, so this can be built for under $50, and provides excellent light for all paint colors.
And as the others have said, the darker the `room` the better the light will work to show any defects.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 Dislikesmc2hill liked this post
I would disagree about the sun being the best. myself, along with several other well know details have seen plenty of defects under inspection lights that can`t be seen under the sun.
CRI is Color Rendering Index. Scangrip was originally used in body shops for color matching paint, which is where CRI matters. In terms of inspecting paint for defects I feel CRI is less important. I`ve compared the 3M Sungun with a CRI of 97 to the Fenix PD35 and it didn`t do as well at showing DA haze as the Fenix with a CRI of 92.
I prefer to have white walls and ceilings so that I can see all the other things better when not doing paint correction...
I just use Scangrips, CATS, and a great pair of 500w halogens, on stands, (except for the CATS) and still manage to get it all clear and glossy..
Perhaps If I had room to spare, and had a separate room for correction only, I might think about trying out darker wall paint..
Dan F
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesRaskyR1 liked this post
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I’ve found I really haven’t had to compromise on any of the other tasks we do in the shop.
Maybe was a generalsation from me. With what most use their wall mounted lights or a cheaper flash light with well under the 90 CRI. As a home detailer. With different inspection light you have a better way to spot different defects.
Wondering if there is a sweet spot with the CRI value to catch a larger amount of different defects?
Think I have read somewhere that it`s recommended to have a CRI value above 90. Or what specs of a light would you be looking at to spot paint defects with?
I have also thought about getting a light with the orange color they have in the parking lots.
Just got my Scangrip Sunmatch light home. Will be intresting to see how it compares to the Sonax Pen Inspection light I have. The silver metallic car I have and the white and light grey metallic cars I maintain is hard to see with the lights I have gotten so far. The Sonax Pen light has been working the best so far. Think it`s the same as the Rupes one. But wonders if it`s the same light bulp as the Scangrip Pen light.
Use the lower brightness on the lighter colors, that works well for me.
Post-Adventures in Ophthalmological Surgery I find that I need a *LOT* more light to do pretty much everything. Whole different ballgame from where I was five years ago, let alone when I designed/built the shop.
Oh man, I`m envious...my combo of cathedral ceiling and "gee that looks nice" windows adds up to a lot of sunlight getting in during daylight hours. Any practical fix would be more than I want to get into (for something I only care about every however many years), but if I were doing it over I`d sure that topic more thought..Originally Posted by RaskyR1
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