Help with Pads

[kestrel452]

Hi all,

If anyone would be so kind as to chime in, it would be greatly appreciated.

I just bought my first "real" polisher, the Griot`s Boss G15, a couple months ago. I`ve started out with working on family members` older vehicles, just trying to get the paint its shine again by taking out light/moderate defects and decontaminating it. So far it has worked decently, but there is one hitch...I`m burning through two pads per vehicle to the point they just need to be thrown away. Is this normal?

The pads I`m using are the 5.5" BOSS orange correcting pads. The velcro backing seems to start pulling off pretty quickly. The amount of dirt and grime the pads are picking up from the car even though it`s been washed is also surprising, but I guess that`s normal for a car that hasn`t been polished in 5-10 years. The pads are pretty black and torn apart by the end.

Are there better manufactured pads out there? The maker of choice seems to be Lake Country. The polishes I`ve been using are HD Speed and Griot`s Finishing Sealant, which I believe are lighter polishes but still seem to work okay with the orange pads at speed 5 or 6. I have no idea if Lake Country pads would last significantly longer, however, what would be their equivalent to the BOSS orange (correcting) and yellow (perfecting) pads?

Thank you

[Fishroes]

Sounds like you are not swapping the dirty pad for a clean one often enough. If the paint is really contaminated you will need 5-10 pads. It’s hard to clean with a dirty pad. Are you claying before you polish. If not you definitely need to do that or maybe a rare case you got some defective pads

[LGHT]

How do you like the machine so far? I`m pretty much in the same boat, and considering the Boss 15, but want to get my hands on one before I buy it. I also plan on working on my old truck first which hasn`t been detailed ummm ever before moving over to one of the new cars. I was told to start off with a "heavy cut" pad and plan on going through 4-5 of those and then I would have to use a standard bad to get rid of the "maring"??

Also on a side note how do you clean a pad if you don`t have an air blower to blow it out?

[Accumulator]

kestrel452- Mike lambert has recently opined that running that machine at the higher speeds can be a bad idea. Perhaps that`s contributing to the pads wearing out so fast.

If the pad is getting obviously contaminated with anything other than cut-of clear, IMO that means it should`ve been thoroughly decontaminated before the polishing.

Oh, and I *assume* you`re using plenty of pads per vehicle and not trying to do the whole thing with just two or three.

[Accumulator]

How do you like the machine so far? I`m pretty much in the same boat, and considering the Boss 15, but want to get my hands on one before I buy it. I also plan on working on my old truck first which hasn`t been detailed ummm ever before moving over to one of the new cars. I was told to start off with a "heavy cut" pad and plan on going through 4-5 of those and then I would have to use a standard bad to get rid of the "maring"??

If you use an aggressive step, it will usually (always, IME) need to be followed by a milder one to remove the micromarring left by the aggressive pad/product. That first, aggressive, step basically replaces the "big marring" that you see in a "before" with much lighter marring. Then you do a Final Polish with a mild product/pad to refine the finish by removing that lighter marring.

Also on a side note how do you clean a pad if you don`t have an air blower to blow it out?

Wipe it with a towel that`s damp with a "does *NOT* leave much of anything behind"-QD (I use M34).

Decontaminate that truck before you use the polisher on it

But my honest answer to that Q is: go to Harbor Freight and buy a $40 air compressor, everybody oughta have one anyhow.

[LGHT]

If you use an aggressive step, it will usually (always, IME) need to be followed by a milder one to remove the micromarring left by the aggressive pad/product. That first, aggressive, step basically replaces the "big marring" that you see in a "before" with much lighter marring. Then you do a Final Polish with a mild product/pad to refine the finish by removing that lighter marring.



Wipe it with a towel that`s damp with a "does *NOT* leave much of anything behind"-QD (I use M34).

Decontaminate that truck before you use the polisher on it

But my honest answer to that Q is: go to Harbor Freight and buy a $40 air compressor, everybody oughta have one anyhow.

Thanks for the tip. That`s what I was expecting get and aggressive cut pad and be prepared to go over the entire truck a 2nd time with a fine pad. I guess an air compressor is yet another must have for the list ..

[Accumulator]

.. I guess an air compressor is yet another must have for the list ..

I`m betting that the first time you need to top off a tire or something like that you`ll be glad you have it around. Great for blowing water out of nooks and crannies too.

[JustJesus]

How do you like the machine so far? I`m pretty much in the same boat, and considering the Boss 15, but want to get my hands on one before I buy it...

Also on a side note how do you clean a pad if you don`t have an air blower to blow it out?

I used it over the weekend. Put in maybe 8 hours on it. Personally, I like it. I think in the end, I`m still going to prefer my Flex 3401, but that`s just personal preference. If you want "to get [your] hands on one before [you] buy it" then see about meeting up with me so you can try it out. I`m located in South Gate area, and work in Anaheim, near Disney. Close enough to Irvine, so you can try before making the investment. PM me if you want my cell number.

I don`t run an air compressor, and have used both the Mike Phillips (where I learned it from) Cleaning on the Fly (with white cotton towel), as well as the nylon brush pad cleaners. I used the Griot`s version on the last job.

If you use an aggressive step, it will usually (always, IME) need to be followed by a milder one to remove the micromarring left by the aggressive pad/product. That first, aggressive, step basically replaces the "big marring" that you see in a "before" with much lighter marring.

Thanks for the tip. That`s what I was expecting get and aggressive cut pad and be prepared to go over the entire truck a 2nd time with a fine pad.

Usually, but not always (IME). hehe. This last job I did, I used D300 with the Megs MF Cut Disc, and it did a wonderful job removing defects AND finished LSP ready (IMO, of course). On a different part of the car, I used Griot`s Fast Correcting Cream with the Griot`s MF cut pad and this time I *did* need to follow up with a second step. It really does depend on the paint your working on, along with products, etc. Here, YMMV (your mileage may vary) applies

But my honest answer to that Q is: go to Harbor Freight and buy a $40 air compressor, everybody oughta have one anyhow.

Good idea. I would get one too, but man oh man. More stuff to carry on those mobile jobs I do I`m trying to cut back on what I take with me.

I guess an air compressor is yet another must have for the list ..

If you can, have the space, like tools, etc.....YES!


edit: To the OP... I used the G15, speed 4.5 mostly, with 7-8 Griot`s Yellow Perfecting pads. Swapping to fresh pads per body panel. No issues. Haven`t had issues with pads losing their backing material while working them with a polisher. Any brand, really.

[kestrel452]

kestrel452- Mike lambert has recently opined that running that machine at the higher speeds can be a bad idea. Perhaps that`s contributing to the pads wearing out so fast.

If the pad is getting obviously contaminated with anything other than cut-of clear, IMO that means it should`ve been thoroughly decontaminated before the polishing.

Oh, and I *assume* you`re using plenty of pads per vehicle and not trying to do the whole thing with just two or three.

Your assumption would be....incorrect lol. I`ve been doing cars on two pads each. I had thought that was the norm, not five or more. They`ve been saturated with dirt by the end despite going through a full hand wash. I`ve applied Klasse AIO to my own vehicle with the yellow pads and didn`t get the same kind of pad breakdown.

[Accumulator]

kestrel452- Heh heh, I didn`t want to sound *too*much like a [jerk] but I had my suspicions

Yeah...get that sorted out and it`ll go a whole lot better (esp. if you dial back the speed as per Mike lambert`s advice). Decontaminate stuff better before you start polishing and *that* will help make things go easier too.

Some products/processes are just harder on pads than others; KAIO is basically noabrasive so it`s usually easy on the pads.

[Stokdgs]

Your assumption would be....incorrect lol. I`ve been doing cars on two pads each. I had thought that was the norm, not five or more. They`ve been saturated with dirt by the end despite going through a full hand wash. I`ve applied Klasse AIO to my own vehicle with the yellow pads and didn`t get the same kind of pad breakdown.

Kestrel452 ----

2 pads per vehicle is never going to work...

I always have a Minimum of 6 Foam pads per correction stage.. And I clean them with a white cotton towel after every pass on the panel is completed... So they get cleaned a lot..
So, they last a lot longer Before, It toss them into the bucket of Snappy Clean Pad Cleaner, and put on a fresh, clean pad.. All they way around the vehicle..

If the vehicle needs a second round with a Polishing Pad, then repeat the above, 6 pads, clean them, frequently, when they no longer work, put a new one on the machine..

I will also Claybar, Claytowel, the paintwork after a really good wash, Before I start this Correction Process above...
This step will also help eliminate a lot of the embedded gunk in the paintwork that makes it feel so rough when you rub your clean, dry, hand over it after washing and drying the vehicle..

You want as much gunk removed off the paint before you begin the correction process.. It will make the correction process work so much better and faster...

You need lots of towels, hopefully microfiber, to wipe down the panels as you do your correction work.. Expect to use a lot of towels here as well.. You just cannot keep using old, saturated with dead paint, etc., stuff, towels over and over... You are going to mess up your work if you do it that way...

So, to recap, need a minimum of 6 each pads of different types, correcting, polishing, and perhaps some finishing pads... If microfiber pads, you need more than 6... They get dirty really fast, and even with a lot of cleaning with air, etc., they have to be changed out more frequently than foam...

You need cleaners for foam pads ,microfiber pads and microfiber towels.... This way, they can get really clean and be able to be used longer before they wear out and have to be thrown away...

You need lots of towels to wipe off the stuff the pads remove off the paint work, so you can see if you need to keep working that section of the panel...

You need a few bottles of quick detailer, and pad conditioner for foam pads, if using foam pads...

Thanks for doing all that hard work on those vehicles !!! Just need to have the rest of the equation, and you will knock this out !!!
Good Luck !
Dan F

[Accumulator]

.. the Mike Phillips (where I learned it from) Cleaning on the Fly (with white cotton towel)..

Hey, I`d missed that earlier. Heh heh, I use white cotton towels too, though Kevin B.`s preference for MF does come to mind. I just find the cotton cleans more effectively.





Usually, but not always (IME). hehe. This last job I did, I used D300 with the Megs MF Cut Disc, and it did a wonderful job removing defects AND finished LSP ready (IMO, of course). On a different part of the car, I used Griot`s Fast Correcting Cream with the Griot`s MF cut pad and this time I *did* need to follow up with a second step. It really does depend on the paint your working on, along with products, etc. Here, YMMV (your mileage may vary) applies




Good idea. I would get one too, but man oh man. More stuff to carry on those mobile jobs I do I`m trying to cut back on what I take with me.




If you can, have the space, like tools, etc.....YES!


edit: To the OP... I used the G15, speed 4.5 mostly, with 7-8 Griot`s Yellow Perfecting pads. Swapping to fresh pads per body panel. No issues. Haven`t had issues with pads losing their backing material while working them with a polisher. Any brand, really.[/QUOTE]

[JustJesus]

hey, i`d missed that earlier. Heh heh, i use white cotton towels too, though kevin b.`s preference for mf does come to mind. I just find the cotton cleans more effectively.

No worries. I`m sure I`ve missed many myself. Huh. Interesting on KB`s preference. I`ve tried it with MF (the time I forgot my cotton) and have to agree with you.

[Mike lambert]

If you are destroying a pad that fast , you gotta be doing something wrong. I don’t mean to offend you but I have some almost 2 years old and all I do is corrections. My guess like everyone else is no decontamination before polishing, build up of crud leads to heat which destroys pads. Run it at 4-5 don’t put excessive pressure on the machine and clean the pad after every section. If you can’t blow it out, multiple pads.

[rlmccarty2000]

More pads, less speed, slower arm movements, less compound/polish. Break the vehicle up into panels and use one pad per panel (ex. hood-panel). I clean my pad after each section pass with a nylon brush (don’t have an air compressor). Heat is the enemy of pads.