Mold release and tire blooming is the same thing I think. That`s why I suggested a tire and rubber cleaner. Which is often very effective to desolve that brown gunk off the tires. Strange that you got it off on the metall painted panels and not the plastic ones. Laquer thinner is not going to damage the painted plastic if it`s not drying on the paint. So a mf towel with soaked laquer thinner lets it dwell for longer without drying. And a couple of minutes before you start to gently without any pressure wipe back and forth and side to side. It can be that you are not letting it to dwell enough to desolve. So you just wipe or polishing over the spot. It should be some kind of chemical that desolves the spots you have. If you are very unlucky it has stained the clearcoat. I would also test with something like meguiars super degreaser and the wheel brightener and the ironx as you mentioned. You could try to polish with a DA polisher and a polishing pad and a polish. Cause you would be rather aggressive when polishing by hand to let the abrasive working.
Hyper dressing won’t do that. That is most likely from the all season you were using. I’ve had luck with Griot’s fast cut on a microfiber pad.if you’re positive that that wasn’t there for awhile, then you ran thru something.
Try any gasoline on a rag yet? Lacquer thinner is typically acetone but if your is not for some reason try acetone on a towel and see how it works ?
Those are my cheap easy suggestions to start with
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Those stains are not from Hyperdressing. Think about it. Slinging happens with movement, so how would a thin, water-based dressing that is almost fully absorbed into the rubber with very little residue left on top, leave large blobs on the paint while the car is moving? It wouldn`t. Even if large amounts of dressing were hiding in the tread edges by your sidewall, they wouldn`t sling and sit in large drops on the panels when the car is moving. When HD slings, it leaves thin, long (and almost black) smears on the paint created by air moving around the car.
You likely drove through something thick and sticky that isn`t affected by air, like tar or low viscosity oil. I was also thinking perhaps someone emptied out a container of some liquid near your parking spot, but that wouldn`t affect both sides of the car.
To rule out tar, try WD40. It works wonders on that. IronX is only for iron deposits; I struggle to think how iron deposits of that size could show up on a moving car.
For tires` ages, I am surprised no one has mentioned checking the date stamp on the sidewalls as required by law. Each tire is stamped with a 4-digit date code on the side, with the first two numbers designating the week and the second two, the year of manufacture. e.g. 1817 would mean the 18th week of 2017, or sometime in May 2017. Each tire will be different unless they are all from the same batch, so look at each. The code is close to the DOT registration stamp that`s also on the sidewall (starts with `DOT`). That fact that your tire shop had to special-order these has little bearing on their age. Tires sometimes sit in the warehouse for years, even for a high turnover franchise.
Sorry to see this happen. Keep us posted on what you find out.
Are u removing the previous product before trying the next? Perhaps building up may be contributing.
On plastic or trim with unusual looking areas I have had success with a simple soft eraser then wipe clean with rubbing alcohol before applying and type of restoration product.
After restoring your vehicle u may want to consider having a certified Detailer apply a ceramic coating which will help prevent issues like you are having.
Good Luck
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesStokdgs liked this post
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks