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  1. #16
    dansautodetailing.com Stokdgs's Avatar
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    Re: Which chemical decontaminations should I use?

    Quote Originally Posted by bennylava View Post
    Also wanted to ask if any of you guys have ever tried a product called Brown Royal.

    https://www.amazon.com/Flash-Brown-R.../dp/B00WR99152
    Benny Lava --
    No, do not know anything about Brown Royal Non Acid Cleaner... Sorry...

    But I do know a lot about Meguiars Wheel Brightener, and have successfully cleaned hundreds of brake dusted black wheels and never had an issue with it..
    I like to pressure wash the wheels first, to help remove as much as possible that way..
    Then, spray the entire wheel, especially the inner wheel, all around the brake caliper, the outside of the wheel, and let it dwell for about a minute, then pressure wash off almost everything, and rinse everything really well...

    Sometimes some wheels will need another spray and brush them a little more, especially behind the wheels where its hard to get the pressure washer to hit it directly...

    All of them have always come out beautifully clean and ready to apply something to keep that dust from sticking to to them again so quickly...

    It IS an acid cleaner, you need to be careful, do Not get it on your face, eyes, etc... Use common sense... Do Not use it on bare aluminum wheels...

    Mind how much you mix to water, never use it full strength...keep it off your skin... Follow the recommendations on the bottle, believe its 4:1, so that means in the standard Meguiars 35 oz plastic bottle with sprayer, you would put 7 oz of the cleaner in first, and then fill the bottle with 28 oz of water...

    Here is the link to the store here at Autopia ---- https://www.autopia-carcare.com/megu...l#.WmlnL655X3g
    Dan F

  2. #17

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    Re: Which chemical decontaminations should I use?

    Even the meguiars wheel brightener cleaner is effective to desolve oxidized iron. That is since it`s a acid based wheel cleaner and certain acids is doing the desolveing of oxidized iron to iron even in the ph neutral bleeding iron remover. So in theory meguiars wheel brightener is a great way to do both iron remover and cleaning on paint too. But it`s design to be as effective as possible on rims. Since it`s acid based it can stain bare aluminum rims. And if used on the car the clearcoat can handle it without a problem I think. The part it`s getting tricky is other parts of the car such as glass and rubber seals and bare aluminum parts on the car. That`s why I is carefull to use any wheel cleaner on the car as a degreaser.

    There is foam soap with iron remover capability out there that is good to remove different kind of dirt also. Carpro ironx foam and tac system has one to. Sure it`s expensive but it`s not used as to a maintance product but a decon wash. Also is iron remover in general used on decon washes a couple of times a year. The degreasers can be used more often to break down road film and other contaminants. The iron removers as ironx has some capabilitys to desolve other kind of dirts also that you don`t get with a car schampo. But for a decon wash different kind of chemicals gets different kind of dirt.

    Sure you can go with a iron remover and a APC and see what it does. Don`t remember if you were going to clay. If you are going to clay that will pick up iron contaminants and tar and tree sap too. But at the expence of more possibility to clay marring. So if you are going to polish after it`s maybe such of a big deal for some. And if you are going to use a cleaner wax/AIO they are going to get some contaminants also as they are design to clean and has more solvents in them than a compound or polish. The downside is that it`s going to be useing more pads when polishing with the AIO.

    So when it`s comes down to how we all do things it`s up to us how we want to do them. Some like to cut corners and some like to get as clean as possible. In the end we want as glossy car as possible it`s just different ways to get there. And we use different methods to do that and believe in how to get there.

  3. #18

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    Re: Which chemical decontaminations should I use?

    Quote Originally Posted by Poorboy View Post
    APC and Iron Remover will do the job easily ... The APC dilution will depend on the contamination.
    Both of these work great for me! I personally prefer a dedicated solvent tar remover, but the truth is here in the northwest there`s not enough tar to justify it. Clay takes of care the little bits that do stick.

    If wheels are apocalyptic bad grab some spray and rinse but I`ve never needed it myself.
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  4. #19

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    Re: Which chemical decontaminations should I use?

    I`ve had little luck with any iron remover I`ve tried - just not as effective as I`d hoped they would be. For "bad" wheels, meguairs wheel brightener has all but eliminated all other wheel cleaners in my arsenal. I bought the Valugard ABC system based on some recommendations here, and I`ll be trying it out this spring.
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  5. #20

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    Re: Which chemical decontaminations should I use?

    kdgs touched on something that could be critical on some vehicles- gotta keep acidic/highly alkaline stuff off of bare aluminum. Makes me think of the aluminum trim on our Audis. "But it`s not bare"...maybe not when it was brand new (big "maybe" IME) but once it gets a tiny bit compromised...and that might not be readily visible to the naked eye, it`s sooo fragile and once it`s [messed] up it`s never the same. I`m nervous using "B" on it, and that stuff is awfully gentle.

    Quote Originally Posted by SuperBuick View Post
    I bought the Valugard ABC system based on some recommendations here, and I`ll be trying it out this spring.
    Repeating...I predict it`ll be awfully mild compared to what you`re used to, not that I consider that a bad thing. I *do* wish it were a bit more potent, but then it`d be merely Accumulator-proof, rather than foolproof.
    Thanks IXLRS thanked for this post

  6. #21
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    Re: Which chemical decontaminations should I use?

    I can see where dirt, exhaust, industrial fallout, bird crap, sap and tar come from. But everyone keeps mentioning iron. Where is iron coming from? In my mind, I`m imagining the worst thing (and most common thing) happening to a clear coat, is the car going down the highway at 70mph. Its getting blasted with all manner of dirt particles from the other cars, and just whatever is in the air at the time. I can`t really see where iron is coming from.

    As for Brown Royal, I love the stuff. Just eats brake dust. The work that you have to do with it, thus far seems quite minimal. Generally it will eat most of it, and a light agitation with a brush may be necessary on wheels that has caked on brake dust. After that light agitation, that`s it. They`re clean. I don`t know if they`re autopian clean, but you certainly can`t see anything still on them when you`re just standing back and looking at them.

    Lastly, what do you guys put on wheels that delays the brake dust from sticking? I find that possibility very intriguing. I`m imagining a spray that you just spray on there, and let it dry and don`t have to do anything else.

  7. #22

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    Re: Which chemical decontaminations should I use?

    I will no longer use any acid based or highly alkaline products on wheels. Too much risk of damage to brake parts. And don’t even think of it around the carbon ceramic ones! And yes they do get dusty.

  8. #23
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    Re: Which chemical decontaminations should I use?

    I’ve used the finish kare decon kit a couple of times. Not sure if they still make it or not.

  9. #24

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    Re: Which chemical decontaminations should I use?

    Most imbedded iron particals comes from brake pads and the brake rotors. They have such of a high temperature so it melts a very little in the clearcoat. Or since the iron particals is such a jagged edges it`s clinging on easier. Them what makes them almost impossible to remove with ordinary washing. Is that they oxidized very fast and this makes them bigger and hang on to the paint harder. That`s why a iron remover is necessary to desolve oxidized iron to iron only. And since IMO I think that those jagged edges is the first that oxidized on a iron partical and those gets desolved by a iron remover. It`s gets easier to rinse them of. If you get overspray from a metallgrinder and try to remove them right away you have problem to do that and need to clay it away instead. Those jagged edges of the iron overspray has not been able to oxidized and wont desolve with a iron remover. Iron remover either them are ph neutral or acid they have a acidic chemical that desolves oxidized iron aka rust corrosion. Ph neutral iron remover is a carrier for the reactive acid chemical that does the work to desolve oxidized iron.

    I would look up if the wheel cleaner you like is ph neutral or acid or alkaline based. And if it can be used on glass and other material you have on your car. Overspray is easy to get and if it would etch glass or bare aluminum and it does. Then it`s not fun to repair that damage and it might not be possible to do it either. So a new part is necessary to replace the etched part. If you are certain of it not to etch parts on your car go ahead and use it. If not it`s a cheap insurance to use a dedicated iron remover that is made to get used on the car and read the manufactures recommendation how to use it. Work in smaller sections if it can dry before you are able to rinse it of. That`s a safer way to use chemicals of and kind as they are sensitive to drying. Other from that if not any restrictions to certain materials they are safe to use.
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  10. #25

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    Re: Which chemical decontaminations should I use?

    Quote Originally Posted by SWETM View Post
    Most imbedded iron particals comes from brake pads and the brake rotors. They have such of a high temperature so it melts a very little in the clearcoat. Or since the iron particals is such a jagged edges it`s clinging on easier. Them what makes them almost impossible to remove with ordinary washing. Is that they oxidized very fast and this makes them bigger and hang on to the paint harder. That`s why a iron remover is necessary to desolve oxidized iron to iron only. And since IMO I think that those jagged edges is the first that oxidized on a iron partical and those gets desolved by a iron remover. It`s gets easier to rinse them of. If you get overspray from a metallgrinder and try to remove them right away you have problem to do that and need to clay it away instead. Those jagged edges of the iron overspray has not been able to oxidized and wont desolve with a iron remover. Iron remover either them are ph neutral or acid they have a acidic chemical that desolves oxidized iron aka rust corrosion. Ph neutral iron remover is a carrier for the reactive acid chemical that does the work to desolve oxidized iron.

    I would look up if the wheel cleaner you like is ph neutral or acid or alkaline based. And if it can be used on glass and other material you have on your car. Overspray is easy to get and if it would etch glass or bare aluminum and it does. Then it`s not fun to repair that damage and it might not be possible to do it either. So a new part is necessary to replace the etched part. If you are certain of it not to etch parts on your car go ahead and use it. If not it`s a cheap insurance to use a dedicated iron remover that is made to get used on the car and read the manufactures recommendation how to use it. Work in smaller sections if it can dry before you are able to rinse it of. That`s a safer way to use chemicals of and kind as they are sensitive to drying. Other from that if not any restrictions to certain materials they are safe to use.
    Is it safe to spray your favorite iron remover on PPF?

    Do iron deposits even cling to PPF?

    thxs!

  11. #26

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    Re: Which chemical decontaminations should I use?

    Quote Originally Posted by IXLRS View Post
    Is it safe to spray your favorite iron remover on PPF?

    Do iron deposits even cling to PPF?

    thxs!
    I think that it`s clings to ppf as well. Have not real world experience with thou. One iron remover that claims to be 100% acid free and works on all materials is McKees 37 extreme iron remover. I would send a question to Nick at McKees to be on the safe side that it works on ppf and clearbras too. Or send to the company that has distribution of your favorite iron remover.

    Ooh and if you live and drive by a railroad track you get alot of iron particals from trains brakes as it`s most metall to metall. That`s why if a brand new car gets transport by train you have alot of iron particals on them even if it`s a new car.

    Skickat från min SM-T585 via Tapatalk
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  12. #27

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    Re: Which chemical decontaminations should I use?

    Carpro claims it`s save to use ironx on ppf and clearbras. On carpro uk site they have much q/a on their products and maybe on the us site also. I like ironx and Bilt Hamber Korrosol as they are very fast to desolve oxidized iron and other contaminants. Korrosol I`m not certain if it`s save to use on ppf but can look into it.

    For maintance say every 2 months or so depending on the environment you live in as how much iron particals and other fallout you have. I would look into carpro ironx foam or tac system iron foam. Use as a prewash foam with the foamcannon or and as a car soap. It`s a little more diluted and would be used straight if you want to get the strength as ironx has.

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  13. #28

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    Re: Which chemical decontaminations should I use?

    Quote Originally Posted by bennylava View Post
    ...what do you guys put on wheels that delays the brake dust from sticking? I find that possibility very intriguing. I`m imagining a spray that you just spray on there, and let it dry and don`t have to do anything else.
    I use FK1000P and give them a wipe with ~QD-strength IUDJ at each wash (it leaves just enough behind to make it worth doing). This lasts as long as KSG x 4 used to, which is a lot longer than any number of Collinite layers. But IME most any LSP is a lot better than nothing; I used Souveran (of all things!) on the Jag`s wheels and the only downside was it needed redone frequently.

    And no, the "wheels get hot! The wax will just melt off!" never happened as best I could tell.

    With that kind of treatment, I wash the brake dust off easily with just a strong shampoo mix, even on "German cars with awful brake dust" (scare-quotes intentional as I`ve never found *any* of those to be as bad as people say). Absolutely easy as can be.

  14. #29

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    Re: Which chemical decontaminations should I use?

    Quote Originally Posted by SWETM View Post
    Most imbedded iron particals comes from brake pads and the brake rotors. They have such of a high temperature so it melts a very little in the clearcoat. Or since the iron particals is such a jagged edges it`s clinging on easier. Them what makes them almost impossible to remove with ordinary washing..
    But, but...it just never happens with my cars and I`m a lot harder on the brakes than most people think they are. AutoX/track days...washes right off, easy-peasy. OK, I`ll shut up now before I sound too argumentative

    Quote Originally Posted by IXLRS
    Do iron deposits even cling to PPF?
    IF you get them (and I wouldn`t go looking for problems you don`t know you have ) then yeah the deposits will get onto/into most any surface they contact.

    Quote Originally Posted by jrock645
    I’ve used the finish kare decon kit a couple of times. Not sure if they still make it or not.
    As best I can tell it`s no longer on the market. Which is probably just as well as that (really nasty) stuff can do damage under some conditions. No, FK1119 never caused any problems for me, perfectly Accumulator-proof on the applications where I used it. But it`s a long way from foolproof and somebody, somewhere, almost certainly caused permanent damage with it, or more likely with their acidic step (Ketch talked me out of even trying it and of all people he oughta know).

  15. #30

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    Re: Which chemical decontaminations should I use?

    Most cases with a well maintained car the bigger oxidized iron particals from brakes is few and if washed after a trackday loosens effective. Do you have a barrier with a good lsp even less. So as many of other things it`s many variables. But if not maintained that well and the iron particals the bigger ones gets time to oxidized they cling rather hard and if only claying is not getting them off but shaved off and parts still in the clearcoat. On lighter colored cars you see it faster. And even with alot of iron in the water you are washing with can get some pretty cool bleeding effects. In Sweden some private water wells is heavy with minerals so it`s not unusual to see.

 

 
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