Necessary to clay bar if I`m going to use megs 105?

[JustJesus]

I might be in the minority here, but I can figure out processes like claying better by *thinking* than by watching somebody else do it (though I can imagine somebody with a different learning style learning from watching somebody else run a polisher, especially a rotary).

Analogy- learning trigger control by watching somebody else shoot...I had to *feel*, first-hand, the diff between "trigger PRESS" (good) vs. "trigger PULL" (bad). Watching someone else`s finger move back and forth doesn`t teach me much of anything (well, other than where/how to position that finger on the trigger, but I don`t need to see that either).

hehe...yeah, I learn by various means. Detailing, using a polisher specifically, I learned by watching YouTube videos! Junkman`s videos were about the best (for me, and at that time) with regards to arm speed and pressure on the machine. Putting machine to paint with trial and error gave me the experience necessary to start. And with more practice, I got better.

Using your analogy with the trigger pull, I must agree with you! Something like that, there was no way I would "know" the difference between "trigger PRESS and trigger PULL" - that one I had to experience for myself at the range. After numerous attempts.

Using a clay bar, that too was better learned by doing it myself. Changing my technique as I got more hands-on experience.

EDIT: Heh heh, figures...I no sooner posted the above than I ran across an article discussing "Mirror Neurons". Apparently, MRIs show that watching somebody doing something causes the same neural behavior as (physically) doing it yourself. Another of those "note to self" moments...

I wouldn`t have guessed!

[Accumulator]

I wouldn`t have guessed!

Gotta keep studying...as soon as you`re certain about something there`s new info to consider

[bennylava]

So I`m still learning to detail properly, and now I`d like to ask what comes after the Megs 105. Had to put that car on the back burner for awhile while I worked on 2 other vehicles that will make a lot more money than that one lol. But now that they are out of the way, its time to get in there and use the 105. But after the 105, what polish should I use? Trying to put the whole picture together in my mind. So far it goes something like this:

1. A good wash. But which soap is good for a dirty car? Already got the good wash towels from here.

2. Chemical decontamination.

3. Clay bar.

4. Megs 105.

5. Polish. But which one? Its just a pontiac, so standard GM clearcoat I guess.

6. Wax. I know there is a million waxes, but I`d like to get a good one that lasts (i dunno) 6 months? And is fairly easy to get off. Always nice when you don`t have to work too hard.

7. Done. Sell car.

[TMQ]

So I`m still learning to detail properly, and now I`d like to ask what comes after the Megs 105. Had to put that car on the back burner for awhile while I worked on 2 other vehicles that will make a lot more money than that one lol. But now that they are out of the way, its time to get in there and use the 105. But after the 105, what polish should I use? Trying to put the whole picture together in my mind. So far it goes something like this:

1. A good wash. But which soap is good for a dirty car? Already got the good wash towels from here.

2. Chemical decontamination.

3. Clay bar.

4. Megs 105.

5. Polish. But which one? Its just a pontiac, so standard GM clearcoat I guess.

6. Wax. I know there is a million waxes, but I`d like to get a good one that lasts (i dunno) 6 months? And is fairly easy to get off. Always nice when you don`t have to work too hard.

7. Done. Sell car.

Don`t want to work too hard and plan to sell??

Then use a spray on wax. Spray on wipe off. Easy, fast (20 min or less) and it works really well too.

Tom

[TMQ]

Even better yet. Use an AIO!

Compound, Polish and wax all in one step!

Tom

[bennylava]

I`m using it as a test vehicle to get it right. Need the practice.

[Accumulator]

..after the 105, what polish should I use?

Since I utterly despise the Trade Secret Oils in M205 and find it gives insufficient gloss, I follow M105 (or the even better M101) with HD Polish. Extremely effective and user-friendly, absolutely Accumulato-proof.

1. A good wash. But which soap is good for a dirty car? Already got the good wash towels from here.


2. Chemical decontamination. .[/quote]

If doing a chemical decontamination I`d expect that stuff to do all the washing. Since you`re planning to M105 it anyhow I wouldn`t worry about whether the decon chemicals are as "good" (scare-quotes intentional as there are different aspects to consider) as a regular shampoo. FWIW, for regular shampoos I do better by avoiding the cheapie stuff like meguiar`s Gold Class and buying something genuinely good with regard to lubricity and encapsulation (e.g., 3D Pink Car Soap).

....

4. Megs 105.

5. Polish. But which one? Its just a pontiac, so standard GM clearcoat I guess.

The M105/HD Polish is very good on typical GM clear, works great on my Tahoe...actually, it works great on everything for me.

6. Wax. I know there is a million waxes, but I`d like to get a good one that lasts (i dunno) 6 months? And is fairly easy to get off. Always nice when you don`t have to work too hard

.
FK1000P or, for something incredibly user-friendly, Collinite 845 Insulator Wax. Eh, much as I love the FK I guess you oughta go with the 845. It`s just *SO* easy and it lasts a long time.

7. Done. Sell car.

It`ll look great if you do the above.

[bennylava]

Thanks Accumulator! Will do. Couple of last follow up questions. So:

1. Orange pad for the megs 105 (or do I have 101? can`t remember lol)

2. Blue pad for the HD polish

3. Black (or very fine/soft) pad for the wax.

Look about right?

Now to address a point that TMQ brought up. Not for this car, as for me its just a practice car. But for future cars, this process is pretty lengthy. Eventually I do plan to hire a detail boy and train him up in the right ways of detailing. Just as eventually, I will need a mechanic to work on the cars. But for the exterior detailing aspect, it seems like doing all of this may become rather costly. Both in time, and money spent on detailing supplies. I`m wondering if I should actually go this far on all the cars I get in. I`ll mainly be dealing in cars/trucks that are 5-10 years old. Its hard to note out cars that are newer than that.

You`ll also notice that most dealerships just won`t go to the length of a full professional detail, unless its some really classy, really expensive high end car. But your average smaller car dealer just washes the car, and maybe addresses the problem areas with the paint, if he can. So I`m thinking that there must be some steps that I should be skipping in this process. And I`d like to get your thoughts on my plan so far. What I`d like to do, is wash with quality wash, (say Adams for example) and use the good wash towels. Dry, and then probably skip the clar barring unless it was just awful and was going to need buffing like the car I have now. Next, just use something like HD speed and be done with it. Obviously the wheels and trim would get their own attention if necessary. But for the paint it would just be wash, dry, and HD Speed.

I`d like to go full detail on every one, but costs and just the simple fact that it probably won`t matter, kind of prohibit that. Most people just want to buy a shiny, good looking car and then they run it through the automated car wash every once in awhile. Few people want to take care of their paint the way we do. So in nearly all cases, it would be a wasted attempt to try and give them something that was just great, but did need them to wax the car again every 6 months. I`ve learned enough in this business to know that its just not going to happen. That coat of wax will last them as long as its going to last, and that is the end of them taking care of the car`s exterior. Other than getting the dirt off of it from time to time.

[Accumulator]

Thanks Accumulator! Will do. Couple of last follow up questions. So:

1. Orange pad for the megs 105 (or do I have 101? can`t remember lol)

2. Blue pad for the HD polish

3. Black (or very fine/soft) pad for the wax.

Look about right?

Yeah, looks good! I generally prefer LSPing by hand, and I DO NOT like the LC black pad, but that`s just me and you have the right idea. Note you`ll need a LOT more pads than you`d ever imagine since they quickly load with cut-off clear and used-up polish.

Now to address a point that TMQ brought up. Not for this car, as for me its just a practice car. But for future cars...

Reselling at the dealership is a whole different ballgame; I used to have a small used-car dealership and getting stuff in the shape to satisfy *ME* would`ve been downright foolish. Other people don`t notice/care about this stuff the way Autopians do.

I`d consider using a cheap/bulk decontamination system like ValuGard`s ABC, then some kind of AIO, and concentrate on just having the vehicles *CLEAN*. Doing the extra bit in the interior/engine compartment/etc. will make them look "well maintained" to the average buyer and will go a lot farther (IMO) than getting the paint all perfect (and thinning the clear enough to do that).

[bennylava]

Note you`ll need a LOT more pads than you`d ever imagine since they quickly load with cut-off clear and used-up polish.

That is something I know nothing about. So on a mid sized car that is getting the full treatment, how many orange pads do you go through? And how many polish pads? Also I don`t know what LSP means lol

[Fishroes]

Last step product (wax or sealant). The amount of pads you use will be determined by how dirty the paint is. On a mid-sized car my guess would be 3-5 pads for polishing. Don’t polish with a gunked up pad.

[Accumulator]

The amount of pads you use will be determined by how dirty the paint is. On a mid-sized car my guess would be 3-5 pads for polishing. Don’t polish with a gunked up pad.

I`d use far more than that, but I might be a bit extreme about it. MF pads clean off quick/easy with compressed air, but foam is a huge PIA to clean on the fly so I almost always prefer just grabbing a fresh one. And if doing significant correction I can easily notice a big drop in performance (caused by that stuff that builds up on them) after just one panel, often just a portion of a big one. I was utterly amazed how much better everything went once I got a gazillion pads and started swapping them out (very) frequently.

Especially with M105, which I generally use with the Kevin Brown Method (KBM), which starts with a thoroughly primed pad. M105 dries out *FAST* and reactivating it with water/etc. is the kind of thing that, well....if you oughta be doing it you don`t need any advice on the subject from me; if you`re not 100% confident about doing it then just don`t.

Heh heh, it`s easy for me to spend your money, but I`d buy as many cutting pads as you can afford.

The HD Polish is different; you use a *LOT* less product and since it`s much more gentle there`s far less cut-off clear, so you won`t need as many. But don`t get just 2-3 of them either. (And don`t switch to your Finishing Polish too soon.)

[bennylava]

So now I need to talk about pad prices. After a pad is "gunked up" I`m guessing its trash. Where is a good place to buy decent pads where you`ll get a bulk pack of pads? Say 10 or more pads in a pack. Pads seem to be more expensive than I`d like them to be. You guys must go through a ton of pads.

[TMQ]

Thanks Accumulator! Will do. Couple of last follow up questions. So:

1. Orange pad for the megs 105 (or do I have 101? can`t remember lol)

2. Blue pad for the HD polish

3. Black (or very fine/soft) pad for the wax.

Look about right?

Now to address a point that TMQ brought up. Not for this car, as for me its just a practice car. But for future cars, this process is pretty lengthy. Eventually I do plan to hire a detail boy and train him up in the right ways of detailing. Just as eventually, I will need a mechanic to work on the cars. But for the exterior detailing aspect, it seems like doing all of this may become rather costly. Both in time, and money spent on detailing supplies. I`m wondering if I should actually go this far on all the cars I get in. I`ll mainly be dealing in cars/trucks that are 5-10 years old. Its hard to note out cars that are newer than that.

You`ll also notice that most dealerships just won`t go to the length of a full professional detail, unless its some really classy, really expensive high end car. But your average smaller car dealer just washes the car, and maybe addresses the problem areas with the paint, if he can. So I`m thinking that there must be some steps that I should be skipping in this process. And I`d like to get your thoughts on my plan so far. What I`d like to do, is wash with quality wash, (say Adams for example) and use the good wash towels. Dry, and then probably skip the clar barring unless it was just awful and was going to need buffing like the car I have now. Next, just use something like HD speed and be done with it. Obviously the wheels and trim would get their own attention if necessary. But for the paint it would just be wash, dry, and HD Speed.

I`d like to go full detail on every one, but costs and just the simple fact that it probably won`t matter, kind of prohibit that. Most people just want to buy a shiny, good looking car and then they run it through the automated car wash every once in awhile. Few people want to take care of their paint the way we do. So in nearly all cases, it would be a wasted attempt to try and give them something that was just great, but did need them to wax the car again every 6 months. I`ve learned enough in this business to know that its just not going to happen. That coat of wax will last them as long as its going to last, and that is the end of them taking care of the car`s exterior. Other than getting the dirt off of it from time to time.

Production detailing is what you need to do to manage cost, time and improve profits. AIO is the way to go...Article below by Joe hits it on the head.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...fficiency.html

And as for pads---you never will have enough! I try to have at least 9 pads or more on hand of each in cutting, polish and finish pads. That way I just switch out and toss them in bucket to soak and keep going.

Tom

[TMQ]

Video...

Point made...

watch

Hope this helps....!

Tom