Looks like layering Poly Wax may rival sealants and coatings.
Layering Poly Wax
Looks like layering Poly Wax may rival sealants and coatings.
Layering Poly Wax
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So I just recently `inherited` an unused tin of FK1000P and it too is yellow and hard??? This is `normal`? Can it be used like this?
This doesn`t `say` FK1000P anywhere on it, but rather #BWM 101 ???
Btw, these threads scare me now
It seems to me you could make nearly the same claim when layering ANY product.
I`m thinking back to when I used Klasse - KAIO/KSG with 3 or more layers of KSG. Now I use Duragloss - a layer of 105/601 and two layers of 111/601 topped with Aquawax* after washes (*in good weather, not winter). Additional layers (to a point) provides additional durability. Jerry at DG tells me no more than 3 layers or you start removing polish (sealant).
And then there`s topping a sealant with a pure wax (like collinite or FK1000P) ?
I find it interesting that there seems to be a consensus that Dawn is some harsh detergent. Although it`s a pretty good degreaser, it`s pretty mild - consider all the birds that get cleaned up after an oil spill or all the `little girls` that wash dishes with it every night with there bare hands.
<just saying>
I`d *really* like to see a durability comparison test between that and FK1000P.
No, I don`t consider Dawn to be very effective for stripping LSPs but as noted 40 is a lot of washes with anything and I suppose Dawn is somewhat harsher on LSPs than carwash shampoos made to be gentle on them. You can wash some LSPs 40 times with Griot`s Car Wash without stripping.
Huh..their Car Wash? I only ask as they make two shampoos now.
Eh, you`re the second person who`s claimed it didn`t impress them...and I`m at a loss to explain our differing experiences with the stuff.
But I do note that I don`t think about suds and my dilution ratio is who-knows-what since I`m mixing up a concentrate and running it through the foamgun. But I`ll also note that I use my griot`s/3D mixture (concentrate mixed for foamgun, ~3.5oz. of each shampoo + ~121oz. water = 1 gallon) for not only washing the body proper but also wheels and the undercarriage. Cleans those areas just great even when the vehicle is utterly filthy.
Guess it`s another of those YMMV things...
And it`s been shown that it doesn`t strip LSPs, it just leaves a layer of sufactants on the surface that stops beading. So after a Dawn wash beading will be gone, but if you give it a quick IPA wipe down the beading will re-appear--the IPA removes the sufactants. Here`s a thread with some good information: LSP stripping - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum
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I`m not looking to knock `infinite use detail juice (haven`t used it), however, I think the same can be said for m/any rinseless/waterless wash product. I haven`t tried it yet with DG`s rinseless product, but ONR at 2-4 oz/quart of water works well as a clay lube. These products all contain the slickery agents to allow the rinseless which in slightly greater concentration with water easily allows the lubricity needed for claying. I will say I haven`t used it much for interior cleaning (except for jams) or as a finish tire dressing because I think there are other products better suited for these.
pwaug- The way IPA can "restore" waxed surfaces sorta makes ya wonder about the "strip wax and anything else with IPA" that some folks advocate, huh?
I`m almost like some knee-jerk defender of IUDJ, huh?!? But yep, here I go again...I`ve only used QEW (remember that one?!?), ONR v2.0 and IUDJ, but there was a night/day difference between the IUDJ and the others. It might even eventually replace all my QDs.
Like you, I only use it to clean stuff (and as a drying aid), not for any of the "and it`ll do this too!" applications. I don`t even use rinseless washes for claying.
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