Only Used A Little

[Accumulator]

ORANGERT- Yeah, the KSG does change up a *little bit* as it cures, but yeah#2 it just never has that really slick feel (which I think you *will* obtain from FK1000P).

If you do switch from the KSG to the FK, I`ll be very interested to hear your opinions about the two. But it`s sure protected now with the KSG on it!

[valleyguy1]

Old guy in his 60s here too. I was an old time Klasse twins user. I recently came back to the forum to catch up on the newest stuff available, and there seems to be a lot out there.

I was not happy with the time and effort required to do multiple coats required for the SG, so I looked for alternatives. Poked around the forum some and after some deliberation I got the FK1000p, heavily influenced by Accumuator, and others. Couldn`t be happier, and much easier than the SG. I did use the Klasse AIO to prep the car, though.

If you read the lengthy instructions of using SG, you`ll see the suggestion to use a detailer to assist with application and removal. I have used two different detailers and they both worked fine (not Wolfgang):

Proper Application of Klasse Sealant Glaze

Klasse Sealant Glaze is very finicky about proper application. The reason is simply that the product is as strong as iron. If you apply it heavily, like you would apply a paste wax, it will be very difficult to wipe off.
So, I repeat, Klasse Sealant Glaze must be applied as a very thin coating or it will be difficult to remove.
The proper film application thickness for Klasse Sealant Glaze is "whisper thin". There should be very little Klasse Sealant Glaze film to remove when it is properly applied.
For Klasse Sealant Glaze I only recommend the Sonus Der Wunder Applicator. This applicator evenly distributes just the right amount of Klasse Sealant Glaze.
Before starting, moisten the Sonus Der Wunder Applicator with a small amount of Wolfgang Instant Detail Spritz. One or two sprays is plenty. The Sonus Acrylic Spritz will assist with thin application of Sealant Glaze.
Apply Klasse Sealant Glaze to your entire car. Do not wipe off until it is dry. I recommend applying no more than a 1/2-inch size dab of Klasse Sealant Glaze to your applicator at a time. Work it in well. Remember, rub the Klasse Sealant Glaze in until only a whisper of film remains.
Allow the Klasse Sealant Glaze film to dry for about 30 minutes. In most cases, once you are finished applying Sealant Glaze, you can begin buffing off where you started your application. Allowing the Sealant Glaze to dry longer will not make it easier or more difficult to buff off.
For best results, buff off Klasse Sealant Glaze with a Sonus Der Wunder Buffing Towel. Klasse Sealant Glaze responds well to the short nap fabric side for removal. Flip to the super soft, plush side for final buffing.

If you do apply your Klasse Sealant Glaze to heavily, use a light spray of Wolfgang Instant Detail Spritz to assist with removal.

[Accumulator]

valleyguy1- Glad my FK1000P recommendations didn`t turn out to be a bum steer

Note that in those "application tips" there are a lot of "buy this stuff too!"-type recommendations

I just find KSG *easy*. I`ve even experimented with goofy-thick applications and they always buffed off easily. Eh, just my particular tolerance level I guess.

[valleyguy1]

Note that in those "application tips" there are a lot of "buy this stuff too!"-type recommendations

I just find KSG *easy*. I`ve even experimented with goofy-thick applications and they always buffed off easily. Eh, just my particular tolerance level I guess.

Yep, a lot of "buy this" going on, but in the original instructions I got with the Klasse, it recommended using a detailer (no brand name) to put on and ease the take of of SG. So I have always done that. I think we already had this discussion Accumulator, but it is worth noting for those that did not read that thread. First time I used the SG, it was a bit of a bear to remove, so I started the spritzing of the applicator pad with detailer to keep it moist instead of water. Also made removal easier. I don`t know, maybe it reduced the longevity of the SG, hard to tell. Of course, YMMV.

And, thanks for the FK1000p suggestion, great stuff.

[Accumulator]

valleyguy1- While I was rehashing the whole "QD and KSG" issue I forgot to tease you about how being in your 60s does *NOT* qualify as "old" in my household

[valleyguy1]

Eh, wait a minute while I go get my hearing aid, soon as I get my walker set up. What were we talking about.....

[4u2nvinmtl]

I just found this thread and figured I`d offer my 2 cents worth about Klasse SG vs FK1000P (and a little more).

Looks: KSG is like glass on the paint, the best gloss and great reflections all though it doesn`t give the glow of a wax. I also find KSG doesn`t bead and sheet as well as FK1000P. FK1000P, on the other hand, looks like an extra layer of clear coat and has the warm glow of a wax and IMHO it`s kinda the best of both worlds. Also, the beading and sheeting is phenomenal with FK1000-P!

Ease of use: KSG and FK1000P are about part IMHO the only reason I gave FK1000P an edge is because you don`t need to layer it to get the effect you`re looking for. I`ve applied both stupid thick and KSG just buffs off fairly easily 12-24hours after letting it sit. KSG is very hard to remove while it`s still curing 1-6 hours after application (only if you put it really thick). FK1000P came off with ease even when applied thickly, but I did miss some high spots that turned white and went un-noticed until my next weekly wash. I found these high spots looked like white scratches and were slightly harder to remove than old KSG high spots as the sealant/wax is fully cured (kinda implies better durability).

Cost: both products are fairly priced and available at most detailing stores (FK1000P was slightly harder to find in Canada than KSG, but that might just be a loyalest thing).

Feel: Both products are very slick at first (slight edge to KSG) but over time they both fall off and feel less slick as the weeks/months go on.

Maintenance/Self-Cleaning: KSG and FK1000P both have low maintenance once applied as desired and both have self-cleaning ability to some degree, but FK1000P definitely has an edge over KSG as the weeks/months go on.

In all honesty, I`ve used Klasse for almost 3 years on my Jeep SRT8 and was satisfied expect for the winter durability on my lower rocker panels and trunk hatch. I also fell for the "hype" of other products and started my self down a path of other LSP`s. I had lots of doubts about the unassuming FK1000-P but Accumulator was nice enough to answer all my questions and I figured it`s worth a shot.

Since applying the FK1000-P I notice my car stays cleaner longer, has the look I was going for, and gets more compliments at the track and at car meets. Last "Mopar Monday" I had an old timer (no offence) check out my Jeep in detail of 30 mins if not more and then walk over to me and ask "how did you do that?". I asked "what?" and he said "make a silver car so shiny (reflective)". I went on to explain that I had spent about 100 hours compounding the orange peel out/off using denim pads and used FK1000-P as my LSP. He had a full restored 1966 Plymouth Belvedere HP2 HEMI. I easily spent 30mins admiring it in detail while we chatted on.

Here`s a picture of his 1966 Plymouth Belvedere: