About to start paint correction - need some help

[Nav45]

I was trying to emulate Junkman`s technique on his Youtube videos. I used his priming technique and tried to use similar range of speed. The only difference was the technique, different polishes and downward pressure - just a few minor differences

Sorry to bring this again but how does one prime a foam pad with HD Polish? Do I spread it out using my fingers? Do I do it the way Junkman does it in the video - put product on pad and then quickly spread it out? Can the same priming technique be used on the Meg`s Ultimate Compound if I need to use that?

[bswombaugh]

HD Polish does not require the "traditional type" priming of spreading the product out to cover the pad. 4-6 pea sized drops should be enough product on the pad. You said that you were getting dusting from the HD Polish. I have had no problems with it dusting with me. This is telling me one of two things- or both; you are applying too much product or you are working it too long.

The UC can be primed in the traditional way and then use a few drops as you work each section.

[Nav45]

Ok, I will apply 4 pea sized drops to prime the pad and then 3 pea sized drops from then on. I will be receiving a pad cleaning brush so I will be using that after doing a section. Do you think one pad will be sufficient for the hood if I clean it with the brush?

I will try the HD Polish first because I`m hoping that only one polish will be enough. This time, I will work on the technique.

Thanks bswombaugh.

[bswombaugh]

Yes, one pad should be sufficient for the hood.

[Accumulator]

Yes, one pad should be sufficient for the hood.

Maybe. If you`re lucky.

Eh, sorry to be Mr. Pessimist, I just always end up using more pads than I expected, or at least being happier when I reach for fresh ones more often than I think I need to.

[Nav45]

I polished the hood today and I have to say that about 85% or so of the the swirls and scratches appear to be removed. There are some there but I think that is OK for now. There are some slight spots - maybe water spots? - that can be visible only at certain angles in the bright sun. But there is quite a bit of improvement.

I put a black marker on the backing plate as has been recommended by some and I think it helped quite a bit. I put extra pressure on the machine. In fact, I used a weight scale to judge my pressure and it seemed to help. In some cases, I was putting too much pressure and the orbital (?) stopped spinning. With the marker on the BP, I could adjust my pressure and back off. I used a combination of white, orange and green pads because I was kind of low on pads. This is not the best way but next time I hope to have more pads on hand.

So after polishing, I put some wax on it! LOL, I was pretty excited about this.

On one side of the hood I put Collinite 845 and the other FK1000P. It`s too early to describe them but the FK1000P appears to be shinier while the 845 seems to have a deeper look to it. Buffing off the waxes wasn`t that bad. Instead of dragging the towel, I rotated my hand and then kind of worked at it. There was some drag but wasn`t too bad. I do have to say that I got some FK1000P on the windshield jetstream and it`s pretty much dried on there. LOL, I used too much product! Sorry Accumulator! haha

I`ll see which I like better and use that on the car.

Question: How does one clean the small yellow foam wax applicator pads? Or does one need to clean them at all?

Thank you guys so much for all your help. I really appreciate that!

[bswombaugh]

Which did you end up using, the HD Polish or the Ultimate Compound ? I am glad that you found some success. Just hang in there. Your technique and process should continue to improve over time as you get more experience with your DA. You don`t always have to necessarily have 100% correction especially if you are chasing deep defects that would remove too much clear coat. Another option is to apply a glaze such as Poor Boys Black Hole which will hide some of the remaining swirls. If you do decide to go this route, make sure to lock in the Glaze by topping it with a good wax or sealant.

[Nav45]

Hi bswombaugh, I used HD Polish only this time. I figured if I improved my technique, the results should be better. I think I`m going to live with the results for the time being. I hope to do a better job on the rest of the car and then later on down the road, I figure I can touch up a spot here or there. I do appreciate the product suggestion. It seems like a well liked product. Thank you for the encouragement!

[Nav45]

I`m continuing to polish the car one section at a time. It`s pollen season and I`m doing this outside so the car doesn`t remain clean for too long.

I`m generally happy with the way the car is looking. I`m going to be using a white or orange pad with plenty of pressure for the correction part. After that, I`ll be using a black for the final touch. Do I need to apply 15+ lbs. of pressure on the black pad too?

Also, is there anything you guys would recommend for producing that glass like finish? Maybe I`m scrutinizing the car more but when I did the paint correction on the trunk today, I noticed more than normal orange peel up close. Or maybe it`s just me.

Thanks for any responses.

[bswombaugh]

If you decide that you need to use the black pad you can lighten up on your pressure a little. With the black pad you would just be trying to refine the finish and not actually remove defects. Just use light pressure -a little added pressure besides the weight of the machine.

Orange Peel Removal can be tricky and dangerous to remove to if you are not experienced at it. Normally on a daily driver most people leave it alone so as not to compromise too much of the clear coat while removing the orange peel. Some people do however at least remove part of it by either wetsanding the paint or using something like the Car Pro Denim Pads. You really have to be careful with this procedure and I wouldn`t even start to consider it without a Paint Thickness Gage to monitor how much clear was being removed.

[Accumulator]

Nav45- I strongly encourage you to *NOT* even think about reducing/removing the orangepeel. My S8 has terrible orangepeel; I`m pretty good at this stuff; that car isn`t parked outside or otherwise used like a normal vehicle...and I still *NEVER* give the topic of orangepeel any thought. I`ll never reduce/remove it in this lifetime unless it`s on some repainted vehicle where I know for a fact that there`s enough extra clear for it to be safe. And even then I doubt I`d do it.

For final polishing with a black pad, I tend to reduce pressure a *LOT*. Like bswombaugh, by that time I have all the correction done and I`m merely burnishing. FWIW, I hardly ever bother doing that; most of the time the final correction-level polishing step leaves things perfectly good enough for the vehicle in question. In the last decade I`ve maybe burnished two vehicles- my S8 and a pal`s showcar. And that showcar`s burnished perfection lasted maybe one showing, so while it was good for me ego it was basically a waste of time and clearcoat.

Wax applicator pads can usually be cleaned with an All Purpose Cleaner, or wit Dawn Power Dissolver, or a MF-detergent. IME it`s not critical to get every last bit of either 845 or FK1000P out of the pad. Note that if you can squeeze product out of the pad when you clean it, that`s a sign that you used too much

[Nav45]

bswombaugh, I was using a lot of pressure on all the pads - LOL, I was trying to compensate for the lack of pressure during my previous polishing session where I saw little improvement. Thanks for your advice on the orange peel removal. I will definitely use lighter pressure on the black pads.

Accumulator, I will keep my orange peel then! I understand where your coming from - no need to polish more than needed. I am going to apply that to my car care methods too along with a relatively (and hopefully) safe washing technique. I definitely used too much wax because wax kept on coming out while I was rinsing it, haha. I`m under the belief that "More wax is better" Please set me straight. Thanks.

I`m getting slightly concerned about over polishing though because I don`t want to remove too much more clearcoat. The trunk area that I polished did not come out as clear and glossy as I would have liked (or maybe I`m just being over-critical). I believe many of the light swirls and scratches were removed, though the clarity is slightly less than I want. I`m thinking of using an orange pad and re-do the section. I`m thinking of applying firm pressure during the initial passes but applying less during the final passes. Good idea?

Also, I`m thinking of simply using an orange pad over the rest of the car and completing the process tomorrow. I just want a little bit of extra gloss and clarity. I would appreciate any tips.

[Accumulator]

Nav45- WHICH orange pad are you thinking about for the trunk? Griot`s is mild or at least they used to be (changed `em recently and I haven`t tried the new version), while other orange pads are more harsh.

More is *NOT* better with LSP. Too much can even interfere with how it flashes off/"dries"/etc. and leads to issues like streaking/smearing on some surfaces (plus, residual product can cause "white stains"). Harder to get a uniform application IMO, and it can sometimes compromise the final appearance. There`s just no upside to using more than you need to. Think of the LSP bonding at the molecular level; it`s not like applying paint

After I finish buffing off the LSP, my MF appears unused, no "white powder" on it to speak of.

OK, you do need to use enough for a uniform application, but if you work methodically/carefully that`s still not much. A typical tin of wax lasts me many *many* years. A tin of FK1000P oughta last a non-Pro over a decade easily.

[Nav45]

Nav45- WHICH orange pad are you thinking about for the trunk? Griot`s is mild or at least they used to be (changed `em recently and I haven`t tried the new version), while other orange pads are more harsh.

More is *NOT* better with LSP. Too much can even interfere with how it flashes off/"dries"/etc. and leads to issues like streaking/smearing on some surfaces (plus, residual product can cause "white stains"). Harder to get a uniform application IMO, and it can sometimes compromise the final appearance. There`s just no upside to using more than you need to. Think of the LSP bonding at the molecular level; it`s not like applying paint

After I finish buffing off the LSP, my MF appears unused, no "white powder" on it to speak of.

OK, you do need to use enough for a uniform application, but if you work methodically/carefully that`s still not much. A typical tin of wax lasts me many *many* years. A tin of FK1000P oughta last a non-Pro over a decade easily.

I`ve been using the Buff N Shine pads, mainly the orange ones - they seem to be very nice. Appreciate the tips. You are quite right: thin definitely helps removing the product and probably is just better as well since you use less product.

Btw, I used a wheel cleaner for the first time and there are some stuck on black spots on the wheels that just won`t come off. A lot of the brake dust and dirt came off but even after agitation with a brush, these large specks seem to be stuck on. They are very hard.

Thank you.

[Nav45]

I believe I`m about 90% done/happy with the car so I will not do any more paint work for a little while. It took me plenty of passes using orange pads to remove the majority of swirls/scratches. I think having a lot of pads on hand helps a lot. There is quite a bit of improvement.


Along the way, I have discovered I like researching and potentially getting some new products, lol. This might be a hobby even . I have a lot more to learn though.


I want to thank everyone for all their help, both here and in private messages. I`ve been asking quite a few questions and I`m very grateful to have such helpful people to assist me. I will be updating this thread along the way.


Thank you!