Removing compound/polish around screws

[Striker]

I have some light compound left around some rivets under the hood of my Trans Am that I would like to remove. I was going to go over them with a tooth pick but will this cause damage to the paint underneath? Being very particular here.

[Accumulator]

Striker- You have to be *very* careful if you use a toothpick, and there`s always a chance of marring no matter what.


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If you "flag" the tip of the toothpick with a razor blade you can make it somewhat "brush-like".` Then, soak it with QD (I use Meguiar`s M34) and also soak the area where the compound residue is to help soften it up.` ASAP switch to a plush MF instead of the toothpick.


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OR just use some kind of solvent-based approach, preferably with a QD/Rinseless Wash for the "solvent".` Spray, let it dwell to soften up the residu, wipe with a MF.


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What kind of rivets in what kind of situation?` With screws (as opposed to rivets), what about just loosening them enough to access the area?

[Ron Ketcham]

Steamer or a careful use of a pressure washer. Like, don`t hold it right on the screw or such. A steamer works really great and is very safe.

[Accumulator]

Ah, for some reason I never seem to think of using my steamers for this sort of thing.

[Guru17]

Ah, Accumulator strikes again with his flared toothpic - nice idea it is.


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Alternatively, you can just use a small painting brush.

[GonzoBernelli]

Top of the Line.com sells a pre-paint prep called AKRYA you mix 4 to 1 with water and dried compound `just wipes off with no pressure onto a microfiber cloth. `Works great for polish on glass, paint, rubber, plastic. textured surfaces of any kind, crevases, between body panels. `Especially good at cleaning up sling booboos (ask me how I know?)

[Striker]

I have a high-quality, very soft paint prush that I was going to dip into some mineral spirits- would this do the trick?

[Accumulator]

Striker- If it`s soft enough...big "if"? Your call...


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GonzoBernelli- That product is great, I`ve been using it (under various names) since the `80s.` And the current green version smells better than it did back when it was orangey-pink!` I don`t dilute it as much as they recommend though, and I rinse it as opposed to just W-O-W-O.

[Striker]

The products I have on hand at the moment are slim- and I`d hate to go out buying new stuff for a two second job for a few millimeters of compound. I`ve got some ONR and some old QD laying around. Would dawn dissolve this?

[Ron Ketcham]

Perhaps, if you keep it wet and allow it time to soak, like 5 to 10 minutes. If you have an old 1 inch paint brush, trim the bristles down to about a half an inch. That "stiffens" them, use it, after the soaking (keeping wet) to agitate the areas. Rinse well.

[Accumulator]

Man, if I touched any of my autopaint with a cut-down brush (even a BH I`d mar the [crap] out of it, like "naked-eye-obvious".` Then I`d be right back compounding, and facing the same problem all over again!

[Striker]

Off topic....I got a couple light, light stone chips. Would you recommend I touch up with actual correct paint or use the black I got here. Someone once recommended model paint to me for super light, small touch ups?

[Accumulator]

Striker- I`d absolutely get something that supposedly matches the proper paint code.` There are a zillion shades of black.` And no, don`t use model paint, get proper touchup automotive stuff. Model paint isn`t made to weather UV exposure and other such stuff.



Just FWIW, I`m leaning more and more towards just living with chips rather than touching them up, but I guess that`s just more of my Autopian Heresy

[Paul Sparks]

Q-tip makes pointed cotton swabs and DI also carries some pointed type q-tips. I spray vinegar if I don`t want to fire up the steamer.

[Dan]

ONR and a wool mitt work well for this.