I need HELP Glass issue

[aidan530]

Hi everyone. This is my first post here, of many to come. I slowly started getting into detailing over the past year and a half. I started with a PC.



Now to my issue. I bought my car with mirror tinted windows and never liked it. So I got my windows re tinted with a reasonable black tint. When I did this the water marks that were on ALL of my windows really showed up bad against the black tint. So I did some research and I came across Ceriglass. I tried it by hand and no change. I tried it on my PC with an orange pad. It worked great, so I thought. I left it for the night and the next day took the car out in the sun and I had done well except for the corners and edges. Next I, when doing my research I read that I was able to use 0000 steel wool. I had several assorted types of steel wool 0000 being one of them. I grabbed a piece and somewhere in my mind I thought it would be a good idea to put the Ceriglass on the steel wool and go at it. It seemed to be working very well. Then I pulled it out into the sun and that is when I saw...I scratched the living hell out of all my windows. I re traced my steps and come to find I must have grabbed 000 steel wool instead.

I know this is a long story.



*Cliff`s notes*

I have swirls in all my glass. No deep scratches at all. How can I remove these? And get in the corners? My PC pad was too big to get in the corners. By hand would be preferable as I don`t have a pad small enough to get in the corners.

Thanks for your help.

Jaret

[Legacy]

CeriGlass has a kit with two hand applicators. Do you have 3-4" pads for your pc?

Hi everyone. This is my first post here, of many to come. I slowly started getting into detailing over the past year and a half. I started with a PC.



Now to my issue. I bought my car with mirror tinted windows and never liked it. So I got my windows re tinted with a reasonable black tint. When I did this the water marks that were on ALL of my windows really showed up bad against the black tint. So I did some research and I came across Ceriglass. I tried it by hand and no change. I tried it on my PC with an orange pad. It worked great, so I thought. I left it for the night and the next day took the car out in the sun and I had done well except for the corners and edges. Next I, when doing my research I read that I was able to use 0000 steel wool. I had several assorted types of steel wool 0000 being one of them. I grabbed a piece and somewhere in my mind I thought it would be a good idea to put the Ceriglass on the steel wool and go at it. It seemed to be working very well. Then I pulled it out into the sun and that is when I saw...I scratched the living hell out of all my windows. I re traced my steps and come to find I must have grabbed 000 steel wool instead.

I know this is a long story.



*Cliff`s notes*

I have swirls in all my glass. No deep scratches at all. How can I remove these? And get in the corners? My PC pad was too big to get in the corners. By hand would be preferable as I don`t have a pad small enough to get in the corners.

Thanks for your help.

Jaret

[aidan530]

So the Ceriglass is ok to get rid of the swirls with the correct pad? No I only have 5.5" pads. I will look into the hand applicators. I don`t mind putting some elbow grease into it, I messed it up, might as well pay for it.

Thanks for the quick reply.

CeriGlass has a kit with two hand applicators. Do you have 3-4" pads for your pc?

[Ron Ketcham]

You never stated if you used any "lubricant" when you applied the 0000 steel wool.

That is what made the marring, if you would have "at least" used glass cleaner, to lubricate, the marring would have been much less or perhaps none at all.

Not aware of the product "Ceriglass", but would gather from the name of the product, it contains at least a percentage of cerium oxide, which is what is used to polish glass.

My suggestion is to use your Porter Cable with a hardest pad you have and the Ceriglass

product.

The key is this "keep it wet" while working the product.

Have a spray bottle of water handy and keep the product and work area "wet".

When it appears that you have obtained good results follow by cleaning and moving on to a softer pad and do the same as when you did the first step.

Yeah, there will be some clean up to do, as it will "sling" about, but a good washing will take care of that.

After you have worked the product, wipe clean using a 50/50 mix of IPA and water to remove any residue and check you work. (repeat as required)

The actual best sort of pad to do this sort of work is not available for a PC to my knowledge, I always use a "felt" buffing pad and a rotary buffer to work the cerium oxide paste-based product from C.R.Lawruance (sp) to remove as much as possible of glass marring.

You have to "let the abrasives" work, which is why you keep the area wet/lubricated in order to obtain results.

A word of caution here, if too deep, most can not be removed, only reduced.

Grumpy

[Accumulator]

aidan530- Welcom to Autopia!



Sorry to hear about the glass. I wouldn`t try it by hand, let the machine do the work. And I`d do everything you can to keep it off the paint...we`re talking about very abrasive stuff here.



This sad situation is why some of us are adamantly :nono about using steel wool on (today`s) auto glass. I don`t even like using steel razor blades any more.

[Legacy]

Excellent advice.

You never stated if you used any "lubricant" when you applied the 0000 steel wool.

That is what made the marring, if you would have "at least" used glass cleaner, to lubricate, the marring would have been much less or perhaps none at all.

Not aware of the product "Ceriglass", but would gather from the name of the product, it contains at least a percentage of cerium oxide, which is what is used to polish glass.

My suggestion is to use your Porter Cable with a hardest pad you have and the Ceriglass

product.

The key is this "keep it wet" while working the product.

Have a spray bottle of water handy and keep the product and work area "wet".

When it appears that you have obtained good results follow by cleaning and moving on to a softer pad and do the same as when you did the first step.

Yeah, there will be some clean up to do, as it will "sling" about, but a good washing will take care of that.

After you have worked the product, wipe clean using a 50/50 mix of IPA and water to remove any residue and check you work. (repeat as required)

The actual best sort of pad to do this sort of work is not available for a PC to my knowledge, I always use a "felt" buffing pad and a rotary buffer to work the cerium oxide paste-based product from C.R.Lawruance (sp) to remove as much as possible of glass marring.

You have to "let the abrasives" work, which is why you keep the area wet/lubricated in order to obtain results.

A word of caution here, if too deep, most can not be removed, only reduced.

Grumpy

[aidan530]

Thanks everyone for the help. I will try this and see what happens. I will report back hopefully with good news.