Sanity check of my first purchase

[apere006]

I just graduated from college and I have just purchased my first car. My number one concern is protecting my car. It was relatively cheap but I can`t afford to not protect my investment. I also want it to look nice but I don`t need showroom quality perfection. My goal is to avoid polishing as much as possible and I just don`t feel comfortable reducing the clearcoat. I am also trying to keep things as simple as possible, so that I will actually keep up with maintaining this car and in order to afford all the supplies. I am also in the process of moving, so assume I have nothing yet. I have been researching for a while but a lot of the advice conflicts and I need to pull the trigger on this first purchase soon. I am going to describe my plans, my first purchase, and a rough idea of my second purchase. Please critique anything I am doing that is unnecessary or inefficient.



Normal car wash process:

1. Add 1 oz of ONR to 2 gallons of water
   
2. Spread it using a grout sponge (Is this the best option? Is a MF towel, Shmitt, or Optimum Opti-Mitt better/safer?)
   
3. Dry the panel with two passes using two MF towels replacing the towels as they get dirty. (What the best kind of MF?)
   
4. Clean the wheels using a different grout sponge and set of MF towels. (Should I also buy a brush?)
   
5. Clean windows and wipe down interior (Should I add something for protection of paint or interior?)
   

LSP process once water stops beading correct (I am unsure about this process):

1. Wash with ONR (Can I do this?)
   
2. Clay with ONR (Can I do this in one step?)
   
3. Apply a glaze (Do I need to use a paint cleaner?)
   
4. Apply a spray on sealant
   
5. Clean windows
   
6. Thoroughly clean and protect interior (I am looking for a minimum set of products that will do this)
   

Microfiber towel management (Is this really necessary?):

1. Wash MF in a batch with a cleaner with no softener. (Do I need one for MF?)
   
2. Add vinegar while drying
   
3. Keep in large zip lock bags by group. ( I am thinking groups for wash, wheels, QD, and a bag for dirty)
   

This is what I am considering buying to be able to do normal washes:

• Optimum no rinse wash & shine 128oz $42
  
• Microfiber: Already purchased 8 orange Vroom MF. What should I use these for and what others should I buy?
  
• A few Proline grout sponge from lowe`s
  
• 4 gallon bucket ~$10
  
• Possible additions: MF detergent, Window cleaner, QD
  

Second purchase for LSP and interior cleaning:

• Leather, vinyl, and carpet cleaner/protectors
  
• Clay
  
• Vacuum
  
• Sealant
  
• Paint cleaner
  
• Microfiber pad for sealant
  

Sorry this ended up being so long but thanks for any advice.

[Accumulator]

... I am going to describe my plans, my first purchase, and a rough idea of my second purchase. Please critique anything I am doing that is unnecessary or inefficient.



Normal car wash process:

1. Add 1 oz of ONR to 2 gallons of water
   
2. Spread it using a grout sponge (Is this the best option? Is a MF towel, Shmitt, or Optimum Opti-Mitt better/safer?)
   
3. Dry the panel with two passes using two MF towels replacing the towels as they get dirty. (What the best kind of MF?)
   
4. Clean the wheels using a different grout sponge and set of MF towels. (Should I also buy a brush?)
   
5. Clean windows and wipe down interior (Should I add something for protection of paint or interior?)
   

If you`re gonna use ONR for the washes, then that`s the general idea. You should check out the various threads where happy ONR users (which would *not*, BTW, include me) describe the techniques that work for them. That`d be better than my trying to guide you.



But on the topic of ONR and brushes, wheels/tires are one of the few situations where I can see using ONR with a brush. Usually, you do *not* use brushes with ONR because ONR works by getting dirt/etc. to transfer to the wash medium, where it pretty much sticks on. BUT, the primary benefit to brushes is the way they work with a "dislodge and flush" technique (basically the exact opposite idea).

LSP process once water stops beading correct (I am unsure about this process):

1. Wash with ONR (Can I do this?)
   
2. Clay with ONR (Can I do this in one step?)
   
3. Apply a glaze (Do I need to use a paint cleaner?)
   
4. Apply a spray on sealant
   
5. Clean windows
   
6. Thoroughly clean and protect interior (I am looking for a minimum set of products that will do this)
   

I`d reLSP when the beading changes, instead of waiting until it goes away.



Yeah, you can ONR/clay + ONR as one step. Plenty of people do it that way.



The primary use of a glaze is to hide marring that you`re not gonna polish away (secondary benefit it improved appearance). I`d skip that and use a paint cleaner instead; most of those provide glaze-like effects anyhow. Some all-in-one ("AIO") product like Klasse AIO or Zaino AIO would be good.



Rather than a spray-on sealant, I`d use some long-lasting product such as a wax from Collinite or Finish Kare`s FK1000P (a paste sealant).



Interiors don`t *really* need much in the way of protection. Just keep things clean with some all purpose cleaner ("APC").

Microfiber towel management (Is this really necessary?):

1. Wash MF in a batch with a cleaner with no softener. (Do I need one for MF?)
   
2. Add vinegar while drying
   
3. Keep in large zip lock bags by group. ( I am thinking groups for wash, wheels, QD, and a bag for dirty)
   

Whether you need some special MF process will depend on various factors; you won`t know until you try your process of choice and see if it works well *for you* (gee, that will apply to all this stuff!).



I`d look into containers (Rubber Maid Ruff Totes (sp?) perhaps) instead of the bags. I`d just throw the dirty ones in a hamper/etc. until you wash `em.

This is what I am considering buying to be able to do normal washes:

• Optimum no rinse wash & shine 128oz $42
  
• Microfiber: Already purchased 8 orange Vroom MF. What should I use these for and what others should I buy?
  
• A few Proline grout sponge from lowe`s
  
• 4 gallon bucket ~$10
  
• Possible additions: MF detergent, Window cleaner, QD
  

I`m not familiar with the Vroom MFs, sorry. Check threads abot ONR and see what happy ONR users are employing.

Second purchase for LSP and interior cleaning:

• Leather, vinyl, and carpet cleaner/protectors
  
• Clay
  
• Vacuum
  
• Sealant
  
• Paint cleaner
  
• Microfiber pad for sealant
  

Get some foam "wax applicator" pads for use with the AIO/paint cleaner and your LSP. I`m not a big fan of MF applicators but it`s a personal preference.



Again, just get some good Interior Cleaner for now. But consider something from Leather Masters or Leather Doctor for your leather (that`s a whole BIG long topic in itself, but really the #1 thing is to merely keep it clean).



To save money, I`d just use/buy an old regular household vacuum rather than buying something special/pricey.



Look into a long-lasting LSP, but be aware that Collinite doesn`t always react well to ONR washes. You really should get something more durable than a spray sealant though, and note that many sealants don`t really last much, if any, longer than some waxes.

Sorry this ended up being so long but thanks for any advice.

Heh heh, no worries on that account (says this long-winded guy)!

[pwaug]

You will get as many different opinions as there are people on this forum. That being said:



I`ve never felt comfortable using a grout sponge with ONR (many do though)--I just don`t see how it can effectively keep grit off the paint as you wipe--much prefer a long knap microfiber cloth or mitt so the dirt can get imbedded deeply in the fibers. Waffle weave (no pressure, just drag over the paint) or long knap MF to dry--they shouldn`t get dirty as you must be careful to only dry the cleaned area. You should have a grit guard in your bucket, but you can make one for a few bucks by purchasing broken egg crate design lighting grills from Lowes or HD and cutting them to fit the bottom of your bucket.



After you wash and clay you don`t really need a glaze, just a good AIO (all in one) with cleaners and a sealant in the product. I used Zaino products for years and switched to Duragloss products because I found them to be just as effective, less expensive and you can buy them locally at NAPA and Car Quest (if not on the shelf ask them to order for you and they`ll be there next day). Or you can order direct Duragloss and only pay $4.95 for shipping.



105 is an AIO with mild cleaners and great sealant protection (similar to ZAIO) or if you need more cleaning you can use 501 (from the Marine section of products) which has stronger cleaning capability and the same sealant. Apply 105 or 501 with a foam pad. Monthly (or whenever you want) you can give it a coat of AquaWax (spray on) to prolong the protection and shine or mix an OZ in with your ONR.



Vroom MF towels aren`t bad but any of these are of high quality and resonably priced Microfiber Towels & Cloths - MicrofiberTech.com longer knap for buffing, shorter knap for removing product and in the dirtier areas like door jams etc. Just wash with laundry detergent and some DAWN and they seem to come out OK. Some will put vinegar in the rinse water and then rense again. No fabric softeners and don`t mix with cotton towels.



As mentioned by Accumulator storage bins work out much better than Ziplocks.



Hope this helps!!

[Dan]

Call me too pragmatic, but I`d love to see how much time you want to dedicate per week on the car and how much time you can spare once a month or so. That would probably help with some better recommendations.



The reality is, you will probably get the most bang for the buck doing regular weekly or biweekly washes and dry with Megs Ultimate Quick Wax. Thenusing something like NXT (cleans, fills and seals) once every 30 or 45 days. Every 90 days clay it. You can do more than that but your results won`t necessarily be much better.

[Grimm]

Along with washes, claying will be the key. When I first found this site and learned about claying, I couldn`t believe the different it made when I used it for the first time. And don`t be afraid to polish. If you have the resources to buy a polisher, even a light polish will make a world of difference if the paint is older or neglected. It won`t remove all the scratches or swirls, but it will bring back the shine.

[apere006]

It`s a new car so the paint is in good condition. I probably will polish the car but I want to delay it as much as possible.

[apere006]

Call me too pragmatic, but I`d love to see how much time you want to dedicate per week on the car and how much time you can spare once a month or so. That would probably help with some better recommendations.



The reality is, you will probably get the most bang for the buck doing regular weekly or biweekly washes and dry with Megs Ultimate Quick Wax. Thenusing something like NXT (cleans, fills and seals) once every 30 or 45 days. Every 90 days clay it. You can do more than that but your results won`t necessarily be much better.

I am not sure yet sure how much time I can devote to my car. My idea was that the once a week wash with ONR would take about an hour. Then doing the LSP and the clay about every 3-6 months for about 3-5 hours. My idea seems a bit easier, but I might be misreading something. I think the key difference is adding the Megs Ultimate Quick Wax every time I wash which I considered. I was expecting to use something like NXT less often but I can also do it every 30-45 days.

[apere006]

You will get as many different opinions as there are people on this forum. That being said:



I`ve never felt comfortable using a grout sponge with ONR (many do though)--I just don`t see how it can effectively keep grit off the paint as you wipe--much prefer a long knap microfiber cloth or mitt so the dirt can get imbedded deeply in the fibers. Waffle weave (no pressure, just drag over the paint) or long knap MF to dry--they shouldn`t get dirty as you must be careful to only dry the cleaned area. You should have a grit guard in your bucket, but you can make one for a few bucks by purchasing broken egg crate design lighting grills from Lowes or HD and cutting them to fit the bottom of your bucket.



After you wash and clay you don`t really need a glaze, just a good AIO (all in one) with cleaners and a sealant in the product. I used Zaino products for years and switched to Duragloss products because I found them to be just as effective, less expensive and you can buy them locally at NAPA and Car Quest (if not on the shelf ask them to order for you and they`ll be there next day). Or you can order direct Duragloss and only pay $4.95 for shipping.



105 is an AIO with mild cleaners and great sealant protection (similar to ZAIO) or if you need more cleaning you can use 501 (from the Marine section of products) which has stronger cleaning capability and the same sealant. Apply 105 or 501 with a foam pad. Monthly (or whenever you want) you can give it a coat of AquaWax (spray on) to prolong the protection and shine or mix an OZ in with your ONR.



Vroom MF towels aren`t bad but any of these are of high quality and resonably priced Microfiber Towels & Cloths - MicrofiberTech.com longer knap for buffing, shorter knap for removing product and in the dirtier areas like door jams etc. Just wash with laundry detergent and some DAWN and they seem to come out OK. Some will put vinegar in the rinse water and then rense again. No fabric softeners and don`t mix with cotton towels.



As mentioned by Accumulator storage bins work out much better than Ziplocks.



Hope this helps!!

Thanks for all the useful information. I was planning on buying MF towels from microfibertech but I haven`t yet because they have so many options. I am not sure which I should get. Which towels there have short and long knap? Do you recommend any particular products there?

[apere006]

If you`re gonna use ONR for the washes, then that`s the general idea. You should check out the various threads where happy ONR users (which would *not*, BTW, include me) describe the techniques that work for them. That`d be better than my trying to guide you.



But on the topic of ONR and brushes, wheels/tires are one of the few situations where I can see using ONR with a brush. Usually, you do *not* use brushes with ONR because ONR works by getting dirt/etc. to transfer to the wash medium, where it pretty much sticks on. BUT, the primary benefit to brushes is the way they work with a "dislodge and flush" technique (basically the exact opposite idea).







I`d reLSP when the beading changes, instead of waiting until it goes away.



Yeah, you can ONR/clay + ONR as one step. Plenty of people do it that way.



The primary use of a glaze is to hide marring that you`re not gonna polish away (secondary benefit it improved appearance). I`d skip that and use a paint cleaner instead; most of those provide glaze-like effects anyhow. Some all-in-one ("AIO") product like Klasse AIO or Zaino AIO would be good.



Rather than a spray-on sealant, I`d use some long-lasting product such as a wax from Collinite or Finish Kare`s FK1000P (a paste sealant).



Interiors don`t *really* need much in the way of protection. Just keep things clean with some all purpose cleaner ("APC").







Whether you need some special MF process will depend on various factors; you won`t know until you try your process of choice and see if it works well *for you* (gee, that will apply to all this stuff!).



I`d look into containers (Rubber Maid Ruff Totes (sp?) perhaps) instead of the bags. I`d just throw the dirty ones in a hamper/etc. until you wash `em.







I`m not familiar with the Vroom MFs, sorry. Check threads abot ONR and see what happy ONR users are employing.







Get some foam "wax applicator" pads for use with the AIO/paint cleaner and your LSP. I`m not a big fan of MF applicators but it`s a personal preference.



Again, just get some good Interior Cleaner for now. But consider something from Leather Masters or Leather Doctor for your leather (that`s a whole BIG long topic in itself, but really the #1 thing is to merely keep it clean).



To save money, I`d just use/buy an old regular household vacuum rather than buying something special/pricey.



Look into a long-lasting LSP, but be aware that Collinite doesn`t always react well to ONR washes. You really should get something more durable than a spray sealant though, and note that many sealants don`t really last much, if any, longer than some waxes.







Heh heh, no worries on that account (says this long-winded guy)!

This is loaded with great information that I am still processing, but I have one question. I am considering the containers but they seem more expensive, less space efficient, and it will keep out less dust. Is there a reason why it is prefer over very large zip lock bags?

[Dan]

I am not sure yet sure how much time I can devote to my car. My idea was that the once a week wash with ONR would take about an hour. Then doing the LSP and the clay about every 3-6 months for about 3-5 hours. My idea seems a bit easier, but I might be misreading something. I think the key difference is adding the Megs Ultimate Quick Wax every time I wash which I considered. I was expecting to use something like NXT less often but I can also do it every 30-45 days.

NXT can last longer, but the 30-45 day window is ideal for maximum results. By no means is it the end all product but it is a good middle of the road product, and not many clean, fill and look as good. There are other choices, but its readily available.