How soon after painting?

**dipstick_54** · 05-01-2010, 11:17 AM

I`m sure it`s been asked a hundred times, but I don`t see a clear answer.....

How long after painting must I wait to wax or polish the finish on a new car that is just being built (i.e. hasn`t sat on a lot for any period)? I am taking delivery of the new GM vehicle next week. Thanks in advance. :think2

**Accumulator** · 05-01-2010, 11:28 AM

dipstick 54- Welcome to Autopia!

Factory paintjobs will be cured/ready-to-wax by the time you take delivery.

**dipstick_54** · 05-01-2010, 11:56 AM

Outstanding! Thank you very much for the quick reply. I do appreciate it!

**shaunls1** · 05-01-2010, 01:33 PM

like said above the factory paint is "baked" when the cars are painted so there reay to go.

even aftermarket paint like if you had your car redone at a body shop should be baked but it depends on the shop and how good they are some wont have the equipment.

if its not baked after paint i have heard to wait at least 30 days and up to 60 days before puting a sealant on or any kind of wax.

at least that what a gm dealer/body shop told a friend who got there tahoe droped off of a lift lol the truck fell on its side and they had to strip it and cut the whole roof off and it should of been totaled instead they fixed it.

**Kean** · 05-01-2010, 02:08 PM

Originally Posted by shaunls1

like said above the factory paint is "baked" when the cars are painted so there reay to go.

even aftermarket paint like if you had your car redone at a body shop should be baked but it depends on the shop and how good they are some wont have the equipment.

if its not baked after paint i have heard to wait at least 30 days and up to 60 days before puting a sealant on or any kind of wax.

at least that what a gm dealer/body shop told a friend who got there tahoe droped off of a lift lol the truck fell on its side and they had to strip it and cut the whole roof off and it should of been totaled instead they fixed it.

....I think it really boils down to the fact that you simply can`t replicate the factory process in a "shop". At the plant, they paint the shell of the car and the cars can be fully assembled in 24 hours. I`ll wager the temperatures alone during the curing process would be much higher than a fully assembled vehicle could withstand (i.e. damaging wiring, plastics, trim, etc.). "Cure" times will vary but are typically necessary for aftermarket paint jobs. ....most factory jobs are ready to go as soon as you bring it home.

**Accumulator** · 05-01-2010, 02:57 PM

Yeah, and they use different paint technology too.

**dipstick_54** · 05-01-2010, 05:41 PM

Ok, then here is a follow-up question....

Is there some regimen or process that you would generally consider appropriate to use on a new vehicle? I guess what I`m really asking is what most of you would automatically do to protec or seal a new finish? If anything?? Thanks.

**Rtom** · 05-01-2010, 09:26 PM

Maintenance washes followed by a wax or a sealant.

**imported_Bence** · 05-02-2010, 07:11 AM

Correct dealer prep is extremely rare, so finishing polishing is almost always mandatory. Sometimes vehicles even need heavy compounding because of ham fisted, clueless prep guys.

Send a picture of your vehicle under a strong halogen light source, which will reveal the true condition of the paint, and we can assess it better. Make sure there are no glazes or anything with protective properties on the paint.

Unfortunately new paint is not equal with perfect paint in most cases.

**DM101** · 05-02-2010, 07:54 AM

I would not let the dealer detail or wash the car. I have seen auwful mistakes made by the dealer. JMHO

**Accumulator** · 05-02-2010, 10:51 AM

Originally Posted by dipstick_54

Is there some regimen or process that you would generally consider appropriate to use on a new vehicle? I guess what I`m really asking is what most of you would automatically do to protec or seal a new finish? If anything?? Thanks.

I bet my approach is gonna sound extreme, but here goes anyhow:

I take new vehicles "in the plastic" and unwrap them myself. Then I use a decontamination system ("ABC" by http://www.autoint.com , which the dealers are often supposed to use anyway but seldom do). Then I usually give it a *very* light polishing, concentrating on areas where the factory leaves a less-than-swell finish (especially out of the way areas). Then I give it a few layers of a good sealant.

I`ll usually pull the wheels off and give them a good prepping followed by a few coats of sealant. I do the wheelwells while the wheels are off.

I go over the undercarriage and spray any electrical grounds/connectors with Amsoil`s Heavy Duty Metal Protector (link: https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amh.aspx).

If it`s a vehicle that I suspect might be prone to rusting, I`ll DIY a rustproofing job with stuff from AutoInt and/or Rust Paint - Rust Proofing Products - Rust Protection - Corrosion Control - Eastwood (I use the Black Heavy Duty Anti-rust).

I don`t do anything much for the interior, no treating of the leather or anything like that.

I realize that the preceding probably sounds like nutty overkill, but I sometimes keep my vehicles a long, long time and I want to do what I can to prepare them for that long term of use. I just do it, get it out of the way, and then just drive them without having to worry about such stuff.

And of course, the biggie is to learn how to wash/dry the vehicle without marring the paint (so it looks OK and also so you don`t have to polish away the clearcoat to keep it looking OK). Easier said than done.

**dipstick_54** · 05-02-2010, 01:11 PM

looks like, at a minimum....a proper wash and then a sealant. Any certain sealant more appropriate? Really new at this, so if you could name a couple of products I would appreciate it.

I ordered some jetseal and 5050...I hope that will work. :waxing:

Accumulator...I may just do a couple of the things you are suggesting too. I don`t consider protecting a new $30,000 purchase nutty at all. Thanks for the info guys

**Rtom** · 05-02-2010, 02:43 PM

All sealants are appropriate, but there are higher and lower quality products out there. I have never tried jetseal, but if you like it, use it.

The aspect to focus on is getting a proper wash routine down first, then you can just top the paint with whatever you want.

Just more proof that Accumulator is the embodiment of car care

Sounds like overkill, but in reality, it`s not. I think if we all used your method, we`d all be a little better off.

We expect the dealers to do everything and I guess that just makes us a little lazy.

**Accumulator** · 05-02-2010, 02:47 PM

Originally Posted by dipstick_54

Accumulator...I may just do a couple of the things you are suggesting too. I don`t consider protecting a new $30,000 purchase nutty at all. Thanks for the info guys

Note that the decon. system is basically just doing a series of three slightly different washes and was designed for new car prep. Some people just use clay instead but I get better results with the decon. stuff and there`s no risk of marring the paint (which shouldn`t happen with clay either, but you know how [stuff] happens..).

I haven`t used the products you went with, but enough people here speak highly of them that I`m confident you`ll be happy.

Check out the paint and see if it`s marred up before you take delivery. It`s no exaggeration to say that a single dealership wash can do an incredible amount of damage.

**dipstick_54** · 05-02-2010, 04:37 PM

OK...I see the products you are talking about now....the neutralizers and detail wash.

My problem is...I have NO qualms about confronting the dealer if something is wrong, but I am a bit short on technical knowledge when it comes to the paint issues. I would be afraid to point out a problem and then have them send it to the Acme body shop and have it come back worse yet. Maybe I need to find an expert to go with me when I take delivery....and the idea of using clay on that new paint job makes me weak-knee`d. I can imagine phucking it all up and then having to face the wife!!!