Jewelling ? Burnishing ? Give me a lesson.

[DM101]

Jewelling I need a lesson on how to. Use a very fine polish until it disappears?? Then apply your Lsp? PO85RD or 3M SE ultra fina ?? Do you use a glaze after jewelling ??? Bunishing the same thing ????

[wascallyrabbit]

jewelling/ burnishing same thing different names. menz micro polish or something along those lines (i use optimum finish polish) and a finishing pad (i use edge white or red).



Using a pad with the no mechanical ability (though harder paints can "tolerate" slight mechanical action such as a white LC pad on a Corvette for example) and an ultra fine polish and massaging the paint will moderate to lower RPMS (although you will want to use a little pressure at the beginning of the pass to help fracture the abrasives since the pad isn`t providing abrasion) and backing the RPM to match the fracture rate of the abrasive of to ensure it is smoothly polishing it self out is my definition of jewelling. Experience and a keen eye to match the best finish to each paint is also necessary for best results, though you cannot start learning what works for you until you start trying. (taken from a post by TH0001 in this thread http://www.autopia.org/forum/machine...ing-paint.html)

[Accumulator]

MDRX8- Short version: you do the most gentle polishing possible while still effecting *some* minimal degree of abrasion. Different products are worked differently (and different paints respond differently) so it`s hard to generalize with regard to "until it disappears?"/not and so on.



Whether to apply a glaze or not will be a personal preference, but in most cases I wouldn`t think it necessary.



FWIW, if I were gonna burnish/jewel with a Menzerna product, I`d use FPII/PO87 (I think that`s the name of the pro version). That`s their least aggressive product and oughta suffice for this.



I don`t do this until I`ve already got things "perfect" so I don`t want any more abrasion than I need. I gather some people do this step while there are still some minor defects, so they`d say to use something with more cut.

[imported_tim]

Can you jewel with Mirror Glaze #7 ? Say maybe with a Cyclo ?



The bottle says that it`s pure polish, would it be similar enough

to a very fine polish to do the job ?

[Accumulator]

Can you jewel with Mirror Glaze #7 ?



The bottle says that it`s pure polish, would it be similar enough

to a very fine polish to do the job ?

Short answer: No.



Not unless the application medium has some cut to it, and I wouldn`t want to do it that way. The #7 in-and-of itself is functionally nonabrasive even on soft single stage lacquer.



*WAY* back in the day we used #7 with cotton terry to effect this sort of thing on lacquer ("hand-rubbed lacquer"), sometimes adding a bit of cornstarch to give a tiny bit of cut. The *cotton* did the cutting and the #7 provided lubrication/etc. Mike Phillips and I have reminisced about this before, but I don`t know if he`s ever posted anything detailed about it.



These days there are infinitely better ways to do it. Pick a product with a tiny bit of cut and use a zero-cut application medium.

[DM101]

How about using PO85RD or 3M SE ultra fina ???

[Accumulator]

How about using PO85RD or 3M SE ultra fina ???

Those oughta work fine, at least on paints that aren`t unusually soft. I use 1Z High Gloss to burnish the A8 and AFAIK it isn`t all that different from those (cut-wise).

[SamIam]

Those oughta work fine, at least on paints that aren`t unusually soft. I use 1Z High Gloss to burnish the A8 and AFAIK it isn`t all that different from those (cut-wise).

How do you work the 1Z HG to burnish?



Need to do the CLK this weekend and I still have a bunch of HG.

[MichaelM]

How do you work the 1Z HG to burnish?

Burnishing/jeweling is not some secret method of polishing. It is simply polishing with a finishing polish and finishing/no cut pad, the least aggressive method of polishing.

[KnuckleBuckett]

Is it best achieved with very low, low, medium, or high speeds?

[MichaelM]

Speed/RPM alone does not matter. Moving quickly across the paint with high RPM can have the same effect as moving slowly across the paint with low RPM. You simply need to work the product the way it needs to be worked to either allow it to break down or to work it long enough to get the desired result, depending on the type of polish you`re using.

[SuperBee364]

This is my favorite subject, and by far what I spend most of my time doing. I apologize if what I`m saying has already been covered... I didn`t read the whole thread.



This is all just how I do it; there`s plenty of other ways that are just as good if not better.



First, you need to determine what is a suitable jeweling polish. IMO and IME with the following polishes, they could all fall in to the finishing or jeweling polish category, depending on how hard your paint is:



3m Ultrafina

PO106FF(A)

PO85RD

Final Polish II

1Z Hoch Glanz

Optimum Polish

M205



A basic jeweling (IMO, at least) will use two finishing polishes. A coarse finishing polish and a fine finishing polish.



In the above list, the coarse polishes would be (not in any particular order) M205, Optimum Polish, Hoch Glanz, 106FF(A), and if your paint is kinda soft, PO85RD could be considered coarse (that`s gonna set off a few peeps, but on soft paint, PO85RD -which is ceramiclear rated- can actually do some pretty good correction and not finish down very well. Similar to Hoch Glanz).



After the coarse polish is used, I then follow up with *at least* one application (and usually several) of a fine jeweling polish. PO85RD (on hard paint) and Final Polish II (on soft paint) are what I consider to be fine jeweling polishes.



I use them all according to the directions, except.... with PO106FF(A) and PO85RD, I don`t stop buffing when the polish goes clear. Keep going. You want to shoot for vegetable oil glossy looking polish residue before you stop. IMO, guys stop buffing these products way too early.



Obviously, jeweling like this can chew up a lot of time. I don`t do it all at once on my cars, and very rarely does a customer car get a four or five step correction/jeweling. On my cars, I break it down in to panels. When it`s time to put a new layer of LSP on, I`ll pick one panel, thoroughly IPA it, do one application of a coarse finishing polish (if needed, which isn`t often), then do *at least* two applications of the fine polishes. On my car, which has pretty hard paint, I do one application of PO85RD, then one application of FPII (more if I have time). Then I IPA it, check it thoroughly for grams and defects, then glaze/lsp. On my wife`s Sequoia, the only change to the process is that after the coarse finishing polish, I do two applications of FPII, as that particular paint doesn`t really play well with PO85RD.



Sometime when you get a chance, pick one panel of your car. IPA it, correct it, then spend a bunch of time doing nothing but application after application of a fine finishing polish. You will be shocked at how much more gloss you can get out of *multiple* applications of your favorite finishing polish instead of one or two.



When using PO85RD try this.... buff the polish until it`s vegetable oil clear. Now remove the residue. Is the paint as glossy with the residue gone as it was with the residue on it? No? keep doing applications of PO85RD until the paint looks as glossy with the residue off as it does with it on. We`re talking *glossy*. Like the kind of look you`d get if you just poured vegetable oil all over the car.



If you`re having trouble with the polish not giving you enough working time to get to the oily look, keep doing additional applications. Eventually, you`ll get enough working time to where you can get to the oily look. Why it works this way, I dunno, but I do know that if you keep doing more applications, you will eventually be able to get to the vegetable oil looking residue.



Some other things....



Use the polish according to directions, with the exception of the Menz polishes.



Use light pressure when you start the first application, then after a couple of passes, go to just the weight of the buffer. For subsequent applications, just use the weight of the buffer through out the whole application.



For best results, always use a no bite pad.



Even though you are using a no bite pad and a finishing polish, pay attention. Do a large enough area that you aren`t heat soaking one small area of paint. Heat buildup = bad. This is *especially* important if you`re working on painted plastic.



Don`t forget to post pictures of your jeweling work here on Autopia. Some of us are depending upon them to feed their detailing addiction right now.

[Envious Eric]

I dont know SUP, I always have to follow 205 up with FPII, so I would personally take 205 off your list. There is always a dramatic increase in depth after FPII!

[SuperBee364]

Yup, that`s why M205 is listed as a coarse finishing polish, and I always follow up a coarse finishing polish with a fine finishing polish.

[Accumulator]

Oh, and I`d add 1Z Pro MP to the list of burnishing/jeweling polishes. Yeah, it leaves stuff behind but it`s still a good almost-zero-cut polish, milder than their High Gloss (or at least milder than the initial bite of the High Gloss; I *suspect* it`s milder overall but I can`t say for certain). Outperformed Menzerna FP (that`s FPI, whichever product that is these days) in a side-by-side on the S8 and is still my choice for the last pre-UPP step on that car.

How do you work the 1Z HG to burnish?

I used Sonus blue finishing pads on the Cyclo, relatively little product, and worked it with *no* pressure until the product basically disappeared. I did the whole A8 with *one* set of 4" pads and thats` a clue as to how little product I was using.



That *no pressure* matters, at least until the HG starts breaking down.



Don`t use too much or you can get polishing oils issues and IMO it`s not worth going through that when you`re just adding a final finishing touch.