its been discussed, but i`m still confused over longest lasting wheel sealant!

**Dowe** · 10-17-2009, 10:34 AM

title says it all... i know there`s several that can be used, but i`m trying to find out which lasts the longest. i own a bmw, and the brake dust is... well... its a bmw. currently, i`m using opti-seal, which i thought would work well for the wheels (read somewhere that it tolerates high-temp), but i`m only getting about 3 months out of it.

so which product is the longest lasting wheel sealant: fk100p? os? poorboys ws? something else?

thanks for your help!!!

-d

**Kaiten** · 10-17-2009, 10:41 AM

3 months out any wheel sealant seems pretty good to me. I`d recommend reapplying it every 2 months, especially with opti-seal, it`ll take like 15 minutes.

I`ve used Klasse AIO, Wheel Wax, 4* UPP, and I usually only get about a month or 2 on my BMW

**Dowe** · 10-17-2009, 11:33 AM

you`re right -- it may be closer to 2 months than 3. i know it won`t take long if if i put os around the outside of the wheel, but the dust accumulates worst around the wheel in a depression just on the backside of the spokes. so that means i need to take the wheels off to do a really good job, which is a lot longer than 10 min (for me, anyway).

**gmblack3** · 10-17-2009, 11:35 AM

Whatever sealant will last the longest on your paint, will also last a long time on your clearcoated wheels.

**Dowe** · 10-17-2009, 11:43 AM

Originally Posted by gmblack3a

Whatever sealant will last the longest on your paint, will also last a long time on your clearcoated wheels.

i didn`t know it would work that way -- i`d always assumed that the formula would be different. reason i say is the clear seems to show slight scratches much more than the wheels, which would suggest a different type of clearcoat on the wheels. maybe i`m just ignorant...

**Cleaning Fool** · 10-17-2009, 01:46 PM

Agree with gmblack3a. 1000p, Z2Pro, Collinite, etc will all work well. I`ve got chrome wheels that are 11 years old, outside 24/7 and I`ve only ever used whatever sealant I had nearby. They still look new.

**Accumulator** · 10-17-2009, 02:38 PM

Originally Posted by gmblack3a

Whatever sealant will last the longest on your paint, will also last a long time on your clearcoated wheels.

That`s the way it works out for me.

IMO the potential issue isn`t a difference in the clear, but rather in the nature of the application- wheels get more/different soiling than the rest of the vehicle, and are often cleaned in a more aggressive manner.

And the backsides get more/worse soiling than the faces, plus they`re harder to clean effectively.

I do best with Klasse SG, heavily layered. If you can`t get at least four layers on there, then I wouldn`t choose it over, say, FK1000P.

And yeah, layering is a hassle; how often do most people pull the wheels off and layer sealant on them for a few days before putting them back on the vehicle?

I do OK with FK1000P, but I don`t layer it as heavily as I do the Klasse. It`s my choice when I don`t have many days to spend on this.

UPP works OK on the S8, but I have to redo it all the time or it loses slickness after a few washes (not that *that* might mean much to anybody else...). Ditto for BF, but I do think they continue to protect long after that slickness drop-off. Nice for my garage-queen, but not something I`d choose for a driver.

Collinite doesn`t seem to last quite as long on wheels as on paint, but that`s probably because I`m more aggressive about cleaning wheels than I am with the rest of the vehicle. I`ve used it primarily on winter wheels, and by the end of the season it`s in dire need of redoing. IMO it`s almost as good as FK1000P if you`re only doing one application, but eh...for that my vote goes to the FK1000P.

**jaynick808** · 10-17-2009, 04:25 PM

i think longest lasting on paint doesnt neccessarily mean it will last longest on wheels. to me heat is the number one issue, second is the type of contaminates that come into contact with wheels are a little different. especially high carbon/kevlar brakes and more mud and tar than the rest of the car. collinite doesnt last for crap on wheels, compared to paint anyway. and paint sealants work only OK..i actually prefer wowa sealants cause they seem to be oilier(doesnt repel dust but it seems to wipe off easier) and last just as long while being easier to apply monthly. wheel sealants work well too and are made for high heat especially swissvax. plus they have cleaners in them, unfortunately i think layering wheel sealants arent as effective as layering regular sealants cause of the cleaners in them. hmmm maybe a wheel sealant followed by some paint sealant??

i agree stock bmw brake pads are the devil.:doh along with their nice looking oem alloys with tons of crevices and inner lips to house the nasty dust.

**steelwind101** · 10-17-2009, 04:29 PM

Its got to be Extra Gloss Protection. Apply with some "Finger Pocket" applicators and your away. Its very easy to wipe off a thin layer of residue and b/c its thin like water its easy to get in to the small gaps.

It resists heat, tar and performance brake dust really well. It also looks awesome on silver!

Maintain with a quality QD like Megs UQD to repel road grime to make washing even easier :xyxthumbs.

Geoff

**Dowe** · 10-17-2009, 04:33 PM

really great comments here... learning a lot of perspectives. thanks guys! anyone else?

**JeffM** · 10-17-2009, 06:15 PM

Z2P for me, wash with a mit, rinse, hit with Z8, bling bling and ez.

I could go on perpetually like this.

**imported_Bence** · 10-17-2009, 07:38 PM

I think that a coating easily outperforms any conventional LSP in this regard too.

**Accumulator** · 10-18-2009, 10:25 AM

I always wonder how big an issue heat really is for most wheels :think:

Yeah, if you track the car or otherwise drive really hard that`s one thing, but IMO the wheels of most street-driven vehicles never get all *that* hot.

I used to drive a ways to get to my previous shop, and I never had to wait around for the wheels to cool off; they were warm, but not so hot that I was afraid to just wash `em (and I never had any problems). I sometimes *did* wait for the rotors to cool off, but that`s a different matter.

Watch cars getting their wheels sprayed off at a car wash; the water/soap/whatever doesn`t vaporize when it hits the "hot" wheels, though it often will if it hits a (truly) hot brake rotor.