Pad Prep?

[PoisonTheWell]

I`ve seen hours and tons of videos and tutorials on polishing, but barely anyone mentions or covers pad preps. What are your favorite methods? Spray with a pad lubricant once? Cross hatch and massage polish into the pad? Skip it all together and just put the dots of polish on the pad and have at it?

[re-tired]

Opinions vary widely- if anyone ever watched that rupes rep do a demo on pad prep & break-in ,I bet you dollars to doughnuts there isnt one person on this forum that would break in a pad like rupes recommends.

MP likes to load the pad up with product for the most part and on the other end of the spectrum Todd C. like to put 3 tiny drops on his.

Me it all depends on the pad and the polish- but for the most part I tend to be in the camp of less than more- excess polish makes a mess and takes longer to cut where as less seems better for most pad/polish combos I use

[Desertnate]

I used to smear product all over the pad to "prime" them, but have simply gone to putting four dots of polish on the bad and getting to work. I`ve not noticed any difference in performance, pad life, polishing results etc.

[Coatings=crack]

Depends on product for me. But mostly 4-6?pea size drops then spread over pad on first section to prime and then just 3-4 dots per section. I don’t spread it on after first section just go to work


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[Older]

With liquids, I`ve used the old Pinnacle pad prep. Just a spritz. Works fine. Then prime the pad with 4-6 drops.

With FK1000p, I`ve gone to rinsing them in hot water, then blowing them out with compressed air before applying that magic FK.

[Stokdgs]

I have always used something on the pad to keep it and the product - moist - enough to allow the product to work itself down to practically nothing..

And, I love that I never have to deal with "dusting".. Hate it.. It doesnt have to happen... Makes for a lot of extra clean up...
Why would I ever want to dry up my product too soon?? It has not even finished doing its work...

I never use too much product, because eventually, the pad will become so saturated with product, the embedded crap in the top layer, and some of the top layer, and I want to get as much use from each pad as possible.

I also take the time to wipe down the pad between sections, with a clean, white, small, cotton towel, so I can not only get more mileage from the pad, and to be able to see what is coming off that section and what color, if any, it is..

Having a nice roll around cart with you always helps make this all so much easier.. I like the black plastic ones, they are light, less expensive, and I dont have to worry too much if it accidently touches the paintwork like with a metal one.. And, the plastic ones break down with everything fitting inside the cart shelf itself, so it is easy to take places if you are mobile, etc..

Been doing this since I was taught how around 10 years of age, and it has never failed me or caused issues...
Yes, some paintwork is more sensitive to heat from friction, (and your process has a everything to do with how much heat you are generating), so I have seen my "keep it just moist enough" process allow me to deal with sometimes even finicky paintwork..

Way back -then-, there was no such thing as "pad conditioner, etc.," so we had to be - innovative- and figure out by trial and error, what worked best to get the paintwork clear, flat, and extremely glossy, with no swirls, etc.. Longer worktimes worked great..

Today, I only use something like Chemical Guys Pad Conditioner, sprayed on the pad, rubbed in all around, then a little product, whatever it will be, and it works great.. You should be observant enough to want to watch, feel, and listen to your machine, all at the same time, to help you determine how this series of passes is working, and what you need to adjust or change as you go on through the correction, polish, etc., stages..

Why am I so detailed about all of this you ask??? Because I only use Rotary Power, and of course it is going to create more friction = heat, and I have to manage it so I can get great results, quickly, and then keep going..

The CCGuys product I use ?? Who knows what it is or really is... I dont know, it might even just be another of their millions of bottles of existing products in this bottle..

I dont really care, it works for my needs, does not load up my pads or cause issues with the work, does not stain pads, or is difficult to remove ever, with Snappy Clean (from Lake Country) powder cleaner.. It has also never caused issues with the wipedown needed before applying a Coating..
Dan F

[Accumulator]

Depends on the product; what`s right for the KBM with M-[whatever] isn`t right for many other products.

I`ve never used a "pad prep" product.

With FK1000p, I`ve gone to rinsing them in hot water, then blowing them out with compressed air before applying that magic FK.

Why? I just apply the FK1000P to the pad and go. If I were to prime it more than that I`d use FK425, but I`ve never seen any need.

I *do* definitely do that with KAIO though!

[Older]

Depends on the product; what`s right for the KBM with M-[whatever] isn`t right for many other products.

I`ve never used a "pad prep" product.



Why? I just apply the FK1000P to the pad and go. If I were to prime it more than that I`d use FK425, but I`ve never seen any need.

I *do* definitely do that with KAIO though!

It`s a habit I developed from using Collinite 476s and 915. I believe it`s in the directions,(damp applicator) on the tin. I`m too lazy to look. Maybe tomorrow. If I remember to.

[PoisonTheWell]

Like Stokdgs, I ended up settling on the chemical guys pad prep sprayed once before polishing. Seems to work pretty well. I haven’t had dusting issues with the Sonax compounds and polishes. Although, chemical guys’ own compounds and polishes dusted a stupid amount and barely worked.

[wannafbody]

Only issue with using a QD type spray to prime a pad is the potential for water specs all over the place.

[Stokdgs]

Only issue with using a QD type spray to prime a pad is the potential for water specs all over the place.

I just spray the pad, away from the car, when I reach over to the detailing cart to get the pad conditioner bottle.. I never get it on the vehicle, and if I did, I would see it and wipe if off.
Dan F

[Lonnie]

By the way, those of you who use Griot`s Garage BOSS Creams, that big, rounded pull-up top dispenser on their bottles makes a wonderful spreader after dispensing a few drops around on a pad and evenly dispersing the compound /polish/sealant rather than using your finger or a butter knife or putty knife. Some things should be so obvious, but it was not to me.

[Accumulator]

It`s a habit I developed from using Collinite 476s and 915. I believe it`s in the directions,(damp applicator) on the tin. I`m too lazy to look. Maybe tomorrow. If I remember to.

Ah, OK...yeah, I did it with 476S too. Just didn`t think of it as being applicable to the FK, but I guess it`s OK or you would`ve noticed Thanks for explaining!

[Older]

Ah, OK...yeah, I did it with 476S too. Just didn`t think of it as being applicable to the FK, but I guess it`s OK or you would`ve noticed Thanks for explaining!

I took a look and it`s on the tin.

I`ve never had an issue with FK. It`s probably not necessary, it`s just that starting with a dry pad gives me the creeps. And I`m a creature of habit. I`m happy that I remembered where that idea came from.

[Accumulator]

Older- Well, it might contribute to (whatever you get out of..) a kinda "pseudo-spitshine", like when I mist water/QD/whatever on there before/while applying the LSP. As long as there`s no downside, hey..whatever works for ya