spit shine?

**zack.s** · 04-19-2009, 10:55 PM

has any one esle ever tried the spitshining technique? its where you lay down a few coats of synthetic wax, then a coat of carnauba, let that cure, then once over the car with quick detailer(which is supposed to act as a barrier between carnauba coats) lay down another coat of carnauba and its supposed to give your paint a deeper gloss than normal waxing...i tried it but my top coat was just the carnauba quik wax, i think it worked pretty good but i`m curious if its actually working or my eyes are playing tricks on me?

**Dsoto87** · 04-19-2009, 11:09 PM

I don`t think that`s spit shining.

Spit shining has to do with spraying cold water on the wax to harden it and help cure it faster so the next layer is actually a layer and not just forming a thicker coat

**zack.s** · 04-19-2009, 11:23 PM

i found those intsructions on another detailing forum so i wasn`t quite sure, i knew it was supposed to make layers, just wasn`t sure if it actually was or not, although it did actually appear glossier and kinda hid the swirls for a while

**imported_Detailing Technology** · 04-20-2009, 05:09 AM

Thas not spit shining.

Buff with a cold water spray after applying an LSP, repeat....

Best bet, allow the LSP to cure properly before applying a second or third coat/layer.

I notice a tremendoud difference in Zaino and Optimum products after curing, not just drying.

Too much material on the paint surface never looks good. Be careful with how many applications you put on the car in one sitting.

**SuperBee364** · 04-20-2009, 08:50 AM

Spit shining is typically done with waxes. First time I`ve heard of it being done with a sealant, but hey, as long as it works.

My spit shining: Allow wax to cure (after you have removed the residue) for as long as you can. In hot weather, a couple hours is fine. Ideally, twelve hours in a garage is best. Fill up a 32 oz. spray bpttle with distilled water and refrigerate. Use a coarse spray pattern, and squirt a small section of your car, then use the water as you would a QD. Use moderate pressure on the wipedown. This will "pop"" the shine, giving you more of a sealant-like shine.

**Accumulator** · 04-20-2009, 10:42 AM

I can think of a number of slightly (or significantly!) different versions of "spit-shining".. not that I`m inclined to expound on `em at the moment, as it`d be quite a long post...

SuperBee364- Why a *COARSE* spray pattern?

**SuperBee364** · 04-20-2009, 11:02 AM

IME, if you use a fine spray pattern, the small water droplets get to room (or car surface) temperature too fast, and it seems like the colder the water is, the better the effect.

**Accumulator** · 04-20-2009, 11:38 AM

Ah, OK. My sprayers usually don`t put out all that fine a a mist anyhow..

**craigdt** · 04-20-2009, 01:52 PM

Interesting thread going on here.

Supe, in your experience, are there adverse effects on the durability side of things if one does not wait a while for the wax to cure?

**SuperBee364** · 04-20-2009, 03:57 PM

Unfortunately, yes.

I`ve removed Vintage by doing a spit shine before it was cured. It does take a bit of pressure to do a spit shine, and if the wax isn`t totally cured, it`s not too hard to take it all off.

**Bostonsfavson** · 04-20-2009, 04:34 PM

Hmm, interesting stuff. I`ve heard of spit shining, but never tried it. A few questions:

-Would this work for any LSP? For example, I use PS.

-Is there ever any streaking after doing this, or if done properly, will there not be a problem?

**eyezack87** · 04-20-2009, 05:19 PM

Hmm, I tend to do this with any Nuba that I use. Though, I go against Supe and use a fine mist sprayer. I tend to do 4 spritz per panel and it chills it very well. My process is as follows:

-allow nuba to "set"

-remove with good MF towel

-wait about 1 hour or so

-spritz refrigerated OID or distilled water on and then "spit shine"

Works well for me so far