Help the noob: wrong product, wrong pad, or wrong technique ?

[Lefty]

Been a long-time lurker, but finally found a reason to post ! Unfortunately, for the wrong reasons...



Mrs Lefty got a brand new black Lexus ES350 for her birthday. Thanks to the "detailing" guys at the dealership, it was delivered with plenty of micro-maring from their washing. Of course, most appears on the front hood in perfect view for all to see. I figured that this was the perfect opportunity to lock in my obsessive-compulsive nature and get those mars out of the clear coat. Unfortunately, I haven`t had any success and am looking for some pointers from you, fellow Autopians.



Here`s what I`ve got and done:

First effort was a wash, clay (in which I added a couple new scratches when I didn`t turn the clay after getting some grit in it. ARGH !), Megs #7, and Megs #26. All done by hand, No improvement.

Second effort, a week later, was a wash, then Megs #9 followed by NXT. This time I whipped out the UDM, using it at 4k RPM and a white CCS pad for the polish, working it slowly in areas about 2x2. I worked it until it was a very light haze, then rubbed it off immediately. Improvement was slight, but the deeper mars (and my scratches) are still very visible.

At this point, I`m a bit frustrated. I know the mars and my scratches are not deep enough to go through the clear, but I`m also wanting to take this slow and not get too aggressive. I`ve got some Megs #2, but have heard that is a bit aggressive, so am apprehensive about using it.



So before I go do something drastic like use the #2, am I missing something ? Am I using the right product ? How about the pads; should I jump up to an orange pad with the #9 ? Also, I haven`t talked much about technique, but is it possible that I`m using the wrong speed or waiting too long\not long enough to get the proper results ?



I`ve got some time coming up in a couple weeks and plan to take my next shot at finally getting this right. Your help in this endeavor is certainly appreciated !

[Setec Astronomy]

Unlikely you will get anything out by hand. Even with the UDM, #9 doesn`t have much cut. They have reformulated #2 so many times I`m not really sure what it`s like now. What you really want in the Meg`s line is something like #80 or #83, and you might want to start with an orange pad if they are bad swirls. Perhaps #83 on orange followed by #80 on white. But there are a dozens of brands and ways to attack this, you`re sure to get some more opinions.

[Cleaning Fool]

Don`t feel bad, sometimes when you try to polish out things, the pad/polish combo just isn`t strong enough. Thats nothing abnormal. Me, since you are in AZ, I would prolly order a 12 oz sample of Megs 105 from Auto Detailing Solutions.They are in AZ I think. Then try 105 with the white pad, go up if necessary.

[Setec Astronomy]

Me, I would prolly order a 12 oz sample of Megs 105 from Auto Detailing Solutions.

I skipped over the 105/205 since I have no experience with them. Would you really recommend the 105 (with a cut of 12) for a newb? Is it really that forgiving/break down that fast? I guess the 205 has a cut of 4 (same as #80) so that certainly sounds like it might be a good recommendation in any case.

[Cleaning Fool]

Sure, why not. 105 will act as a medium cut polish with a white pad and shouldn`t leave any haze at all. He`s using a UDM, so he shouldn`t have any issues, other than yes it breaks down fast. Plus they have the new 105 for DA Polishers.

[BigAl3]

Been a long-time lurker, but finally found a reason to post ! Unfortunately, for the wrong reasons...



Mrs Lefty got a brand new black Lexus ES350 for her birthday. Thanks to the "detailing" guys at the dealership, it was delivered with plenty of micro-maring from their washing. Of course, most appears on the front hood in perfect view for all to see. I figured that this was the perfect opportunity to lock in my obsessive-compulsive nature and get those mars out of the clear coat. Unfortunately, I haven`t had any success and am looking for some pointers from you, fellow Autopians.



Here`s what I`ve got and done:

First effort was a wash, clay (in which I added a couple new scratches when I didn`t turn the clay after getting some grit in it. ARGH !), Megs #7, and Megs #26. All done by hand, No improvement.

Second effort, a week later, was a wash, then Megs #9 followed by NXT. This time I whipped out the UDM, using it at 4k RPM and a white CCS pad for the polish, working it slowly in areas about 2x2. I worked it until it was a very light haze, then rubbed it off immediately. Improvement was slight, but the deeper mars (and my scratches) are still very visible.

At this point, I`m a bit frustrated. I know the mars and my scratches are not deep enough to go through the clear, but I`m also wanting to take this slow and not get too aggressive. I`ve got some Megs #2, but have heard that is a bit aggressive, so am apprehensive about using it.



So before I go do something drastic like use the #2, am I missing something ? Am I using the right product ? How about the pads; should I jump up to an orange pad with the #9 ? Also, I haven`t talked much about technique, but is it possible that I`m using the wrong speed or waiting too long\not long enough to get the proper results ?



I`ve got some time coming up in a couple weeks and plan to take my next shot at finally getting this right. Your help in this endeavor is certainly appreciated !

megs has come out with the ultimate compound and swirlx (both are for use by hand or D/A), and some have reported that there local walmart is already selling them...





Safely restore color and clarity to abused and neglected finishes with Meguiar`s® Ultimate Compound. Our revolutionary formula cuts as fast as harsh abrasive compounds but without scratching… even on clear coat finishes. This dramatically reduces the time and effort required to remove defects and makes traditional rubbing and polishing compounds obsolete! This is the fast, easy way to remove oxidation, scratches and swirl marks. The secret is Meguiar`s exclusive micro-abrasive technology developed from our state-of-the-art professional body shop and detailer products. Whether working by hand or with our DA polisher, this is truly the ultimate compound! MSRP:$9.99





Car Guys are constantly asking how to best remove swirl marks/spider webs/holograms to restore crystal clear reflections and have a flawless, show-car shine. SwirlX Swirl Remover effortlessly removes swirl marks while improving color and clarity. SwirlX can be applied by hand or with our DA Polisher, and is a non-abrasive formula that gently smoothes away micro-fine swirl marks so you can have a flawless finish on all paints. MSRP:$8.99





BTW.... :welcome !

[Thomas Dekany]

To the OP: UDM and speed 4 = applying wax. Use speed 6 and as Cleaning fool suggests try something more powerful. AND don`t worry about the clear. You will not thin it with the udm.

[Lefty]

Don`t feel bad, sometimes when you try to polish out things, the pad/polish combo just isn`t strong enough. Thats nothing abnormal. Me, since you are in AZ, I would prolly order a 12 oz sample of Megs 105 from Auto Detailing Solutions.They are in AZ I think. Then try 105 with the white pad, go up if necessary.

Good stuff ! I`ll do a search for Auto Detailing in the area to see what they have.



The #2 I picked up supposedly has a cut of 5, which puts it just above #80 (supposedly a cut of 4) in the Megs line.



So based upon feedback so far, it appears that I may have the UDM at the wrong speed and may benefit from going to an orange pad. Would there be any benefit using the orange pad with Megs #9 or should I jump to the #80 or #2 if I go to an orange ?



I appreciate everyone`s replies !

[Setec Astronomy]

Is it a late-model UDM? If so, it`s just a rebadged PC, and you really need speed 6 for correction. If #2 is labeled as a cut of 5, I`d just go with that, with an orange pad if you have it, follow it with #2 with a white pad, and then #9 with a white or finishing pad. #9 is really a finishing polish, so to answer your question it`s not really a good match for an orange pad.

[Lefty]

Is it a late-model UDM? If so, it`s just a rebadged PC, and you really need speed 6 for correction. If #2 is labeled as a cut of 5, I`d just go with that, with an orange pad if you have it, follow it with #2 with a white pad, and then #9 with a white or finishing pad. #9 is really a finishing polish, so to answer your question it`s not really a good match for an orange pad.

Awesome ! I`ll follow your direction and see how things turn out. I`m pretty sure I`ve got one of the "original" UDMs (bought it last Spring before it got too hot). Regardless, I`m willing to bet that I had it running too slow.



I really appreciate everyone`s advice; I`ve got a renewed confidence that I can get these mars\scratches off the car !

[Setec Astronomy]

Hey, I`m just trying to keep you from spending more money. If you`ve go the original UDM it`s got a bit more power, so you`ve got a pretty good shot at fixing your problems with just what you have (if you have an orange pad). I have more polishes (not to mention machines) than I`ll ever be able to use from getting frustrated and just buying something else that was the flavor of the month.

[SuperBee364]

I skipped over the 105/205 since I have no experience with them. Would you really recommend the 105 (with a cut of 12) for a newb? Is it really that forgiving/break down that fast? I guess the 205 has a cut of 4 (same as #80) so that certainly sounds like it might be a good recommendation in any case.

Yeah, believe it or not, 105 *is* pretty noob-safe when used with a DA. I`d say it corrects/finishes down similar to SIP with an orange LC foam on a rotary. Well, the cut, at least; IME, 105 doesn`t finish down as nicely with a DA as it does with a rotary.



I`d be willing to bet Accumulator`s `97 M3 that the "Meguiar`s Ultimate Compound" is not much more than M105 rebranded for consumer use.

[imported_weekendwarrior]

I skipped over the 105/205 since I have no experience with them. Would you really recommend the 105 (with a cut of 12) for a newb? Is it really that forgiving/break down that fast? I guess the 205 has a cut of 4 (same as #80) so that certainly sounds like it might be a good recommendation in any case.

It is pretty user friendly (especially with a PC or UDM), but it doesn`t break down...it`s a non diminishing product.

[Accumulator]

Yeah, believe it or not, 105 *is* pretty noob-safe when used with a DA. .



I`d be willing to bet Accumulator`s `97 M3 that the "Meguiar`s Ultimate Compound" is not much more than M105 rebranded for consumer use.

Yeah, I`d *GENERALLY* think that M105 is OK for a newbie but I`d be careful on soft paint and, well...such stuff really depends on the user (the actions of others never cease to amaze me ).



And note that a whole lotta people found M105 to have a much trickier learning curve than I woulda thought. That consumer-line Ultimate Compound, which probably *is* a user-friendly/toned down version of M105, might be a better choice.



Somebody ought go scope out MOL and get the info on that stuff.



Heh heh, regarding your proposed wager- who gets the M3, the winner or the loser? :lol Now if I would just finish its never-ending detail that might be another matter

.. If #2 is labeled as a cut of 5, I`d just go with that, with an orange pad if you have it, follow it with #2 with a white pad, and then #9 with a white or finishing pad. #9 is really a finishing polish, so to answer your question it`s not really a good match for an orange pad.

Beware the "cut rating" on Meguiar`s labels



IF (and that`s one mighty big "if" IMO) the new #2, which I`ve yet to try (I did use the two previous versions) is only a little more aggressive than #80, well, I`d be *VERY* surprised, if only because #80 is *so* mild on most paints.



But anyhow... no matter what, I`d reach for #80 instead of #9 for the follow-up (unless doing this stuff by rotary). The #9 is just too mild IMO. And yeah, leave the orange pads for initial correction with aggressive products.

[Lefty]

Resurrecting this old thread to update everyone on the progress. Yes, nearly 1 year later...



Last spring I followed Setec`s advice and used Megs #2 on an orange pad, followed by some #9 on a white, topping it off with some NXT. While it was the best results I had achieved yet, I still wasn`t happy. The deeper scratches from the initial dealer "detailing" and those I added were still easily visible. I also did a great job adding holograms, but I ran out of time to keep trying to fix the paint as the summer temps were starting to make it too hot to work outside.



I think the time off helped, tho. I read up on everyone`s comments regarding Megs 105\205 and decided to give the 105 a shot. Over Turkey-day weekend, I put it to the test on some CCS orange pads and the results were remarkable ! All of the dealer-induced scrates were gone and even those I added were significantly diminished. I followed up with some Megs #9 on a white pad (had it on hand from before), and finished with NXT again. This time I have no holograms and only some very minor micromarring left. I feel confident that I`m on to something, so plan to replace the 9 with 205 for my Spring detail to see if I can finally get rid of those suckers.



One note: It took me WAY too long to correct the paint with 105 on the UDM at 3.5. Were talking something like 20-30 minutes a panel working in 3x3 areas (yes, it took me ~6 hours to do the entire correction). I`ll chalk that one up to noob-error, but there`s got to be a faster way to doing correction with 105. Am I running the UDM too slow ? Am I spending too long on each area ?



Thanks to everyone that helped me out a year ago. That and the additional research has helped get Mrs. Lefty`s car looking better than at delivery !