Cleaning door jambs/shuts

[connorb850]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions, I will spend some time on this soon. I`ll probably try Klasse AIO/SG on the painted areas once they are clean.

[Accumulator]

I`ll probably try Klasse AIO/SG on the painted areas once they are clean.

That`s what I used on the MPV (including the areas under discussion). I`d get a few layers of KSG on there while you`re doing it so it won`t need redone soon, and I`d still do a little polishing before the AIO. So many vehicles aren`t even cleared in these areas, and even when they are the paint always has a lot of texture that could stand some smoothing out. Just don`t go overboard, as the paint in question is also usually quite thin.

[KnuckleBuckett]

Lithium grease. Overlubricated hinges swing closed too easily. Nightmare territory.

[connorb850]

Accumulator - So it`s okay to lightly polish the matte/textured areas? The paint on the door jambs seems smooth and glossy like the exterior of the car, but this is not the case with the trunk jambs and paint in the engine compartment. These areas have a fairly rough textured look and feel.

[RDAutosport]

DO



NOT



use WD-40 for this.



It is hygroscopic and despite popular belief, will invite rust.



Further, spraying it on paint should be avoided.



I used to do technical work at the laboratory that created/tests it.



Used to be called the Ethyl corporation. It has since changed hands.

Seriously, hygroscopic? I thought WD40 was hydrophobic and that the "WD" stood for water displacement which certainly doesn`t jive with hygroscopic as you state. I use it to protect various landscaping tools I use (shears, scissors, hedge trimmers) and it does a great job displacing water and preventing rust (and potentially leaving a little bit of lubricant behind).



I agree that lubricating hinges isn`t the best use for WD40 as it isn`t a particularly good lubricant and it attracts dirt. But I always thought WD40 was hydrophobic.



Also, your comment about Ethyl Corporation, I don`t know of any relationship between WD40 and Ethyl Corporation which is a fuel additive company. WD40 started as Rocket Chemical Company and was renamed to its current name in 1969 and went public in 1973 and is currently listed on the NASDAQ.



Regards,



Rich

[KnuckleBuckett]

The WD does not really stand for anything.



It draws moisture.



The Ethyl Corporation was started by a family that developed WD and all testing and tweaking was done there.



This was what I was told when I worked with them.



FYI Ethyl was a testing firm for oils, and additives.

[ALAN81]

I don`t know about all the history of WD40 but I have been useing it for about 15 years and never had a problem go figure

[buja]

I don`t know about all the history of WD40 but I have been useing it for about 15 years and never had a problem go figure

as in the car door hinges ? really ?

[Mark77]

I also thought WD-40 was good at preventing rust, not attracting it. But I have heard it`s not good to use on rubber components, such as hoses.

How about silicone sprays? They seem to lubricate, but without being messy and attract dirt like oil based products do?

[Accumulator]

Re WD-40. I read that the "WD" stood for "water displacing" too :think: No, that wasn`t on Wiki :grinno: but rather, IIRC, on product literature back in the day when it first hit the market.



I`m no fan of WD-40, don`t use it on anything automotive, haven`t used it on *anything at all* in years. But I did treat an old rust-prone, bare-steel machinist`s ruler (four-foot long thing) with the stuff and then left it lying on a concrete floor for over a decade (yeah, yeah, very negligent of me ). Said floor got wet/etc. and was about the worst place imaginable for that ruler to be...but zero rust resulted, the WD-40 protected it just fine. Yeah, I know, that`s hardly a controlled test, but still....

Accumulator - So it`s okay to lightly polish the matte/textured areas? The paint on the door jambs seems smooth and glossy like the exterior of the car, but this is not the case with the trunk jambs and paint in the engine compartment. These areas have a fairly rough textured look and feel.

Just don`t overdo it. I used the PC/4" on some areas like that on the MPV and cut through to primer on some high points/edges in *one* pass Doing it by hand worked OK though. That MPV is one awfully cheap vehicle, so you might have more paint than that.



Don`t try to eliminate that texture, just take the "edge" off of it, reducing the texture just enough that buffing the AIO off isn`t as big a PIA oughta be sufficient (when it`s got that "edgy texture" the AIO can be a little more of a PIA than usual as it wants to remain in the low areas of the texture).

[citizen arcane]

I use WD 40 as a penetrant and silicone sprays as a lubricant. On cars however, I use lithium and light oil using a needle-style applicator as suggested by Accumulator.



WD 40 is dandy at displacing moisture though and I remember the days of keeping a can in the trunk (along w/a spare rotor and a set of points) to spray into the distributor cap when necessary.

[Eliot Ness]

Re WD-40. I read that the "WD" stood for "water displacing" too :think: ...........

From the FAQ on the official WD-40 site:



"What does WD-40® stand for?



WD-40 literally stands for Water Displacement, 40th attempt. That`s the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who developed WD-40 back in 1953. The chemist, Norm Larsen, was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion-a task which is done by displacing water. Norm`s persistence paid off when he perfected the formula on his 40th try. Please see Our History for more information."



WD-40 Frequently Asked Questions



And for more history (more than I wanted to know):



WD-40 Company and Product History