Flooding to help w/ removal of `nubas?

[citizen arcane]

I`ve just recently introduced myself to carnuba waxes and have had at times some probs removing the CMW that I use. I always apply and remove in the shade but w/ the hot and humid summer days that I`ve been applying I sometimes have probs completely removing it. It`s put on via PC and 4" pads ever so thinly (less than an oz. per car) and allowed to haze, there are times when I still see buffer trails from application. I notice a rewash will remove these traces and all seems well.



So......I come across an article that recommends flooding the surface w/ water and use a cloth or wash mitt to agitate the wax for removal. It also said this is a popular method of removal practiced by many car detailers and prevents dust. Any credence to this? Along this same line any tips/tricks on removal is appreciated.



Edit: I remember my dad using Simonize paste wax and flowing water from the hose to `set it up`. Lord, I wish he were still around to discuss cars with:sadpace:

[RedClipse]

i use dish soap to remove my old waxes

[Legacy]

I dont think plain water will remove the wax, but dawn will.

[BillM]

Hi,

I`d switch to a bigger pad (real soft too) and only apply at a low speed (2 or 3 at most) if I were to use a PC for wax application. Wax does not need to be worked like a polish. That should help it come off better. But that is just my opinion. Hope that helps.

[Accumulator]

citizen arcane- I suspect the previous repliers have perhaps missed the point...right?



Noting that a) I`ve been working in climate controlled shops since forever, and b) I`ve never used (or even seen) CMW, I dunno how helpful I can be, but perhaps some of the following might be helpful...



A larger pad might result in a less aggressive wax application. Perhaps the CMW would be happier that way. The #16 I use *does* like to be "worked" but many other waxes simply need to be "applied" if you get the difference. FWIW, I *always* apply waxes at speed 4-4.5.



I`d try using even *less* wax. Yeah, I know...but I really do use a *LOT* less than I think you`re using. But sometimes using less wax results in a more aggressive applicaton and that can lead to the type of problem you`re having.



To the point of your *real* Q- I`ve never tried flooding the unbuffed wax and then agitating it :think: My gut feeling is that it wouldn`t be a good idea. For one thing, if it did a solvent actionon the wax you could end up with wax residue everywhere (nooks and crannies, trim edges, *everywhere*). It sounds like a weird, half-@$$ed version of spit shining, but that`s just *IMO* and I don`t mean to slam anybody (and hey, I`ve never tried it). Sounds like a lot to be doing to the whole vehicle though, and I sure wouldn`t want sections to start drying before I got to them.



The cold water spray *after* buffing, to set the wax, *does* work though.



So I think what I`d do is buff it off normally first. This`ll presumably leave you with the residue issues but it`ll also get most of the excess wax off. *Then* spray with cold water and rebuff.

[citizen arcane]

Right.......next time I`ll use a larger pad and less product and see if that`ll help my residue probs, thanks for the tips!

[Mobilejay]

When I apply CMW I put it on the panel and put the applicator down and wipe off the panel I just did. I don`t let it sit on there for a while, I don`t know if this isn`t allowing the wax to cure properly but it gets too hot here to let it sit. The only problem I had once was I let it sit too long which here in Houston could be 5 sec with this heat and it left some dark streaks you could barely see. I used some QD and it came off.