How to clean and restore an oily and slippery leather steering wheel?

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Originally Posted by judyb

`Conditioners` do not protect leather. For protection you need a good water based fluorochemical product that will act like a `scothgard` and will inhibit body oils from being soaked into the leather. You also need to be sure that the product actually works as a protector. Many manufacturers are now changing the name of their `conditioners` to `protectors` without changing the product so they do not work.



`Conditioners` generally contain oils and/or waxes which on finished leather cannot penetrate the coating that is on leather and therefore sit on the surface and only serve to attract more dirt and oils which in time will break down the finish and pigment. If `conditioners` are put on leather that has cracked and the oils penetrate the leather then this upsets the balance of the fat liquors already in the leather and will also destabilise the adhesion of the pigment and finsh coating and so make the leather coating crack even more. Once a surplace of oils or dirt have penetrated the leather itself then this is what deteriorates the leather fibres and breaks the actual leather down.

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I am curious as to what you think about a product such as 303 on coated leather.

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Originally Posted by judyb

`Conditioners` generally contain oils and/or waxes which on finished leather cannot penetrate the coating that is on leather and therefore sit on the surface and only serve to attract more dirt and oils which in time will break down the finish and pigment.

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While this statement makes intuitive sense, it runs contrary to my experience with the sealed leather seats in my Ford Escape Hybrid and Leatherique Rejuvinator Oil. When I apply Leatherique, it does not run off, puddle and/or evaporate and the seats are noticeably softer after use of the product. The product is going somewhere (i.e. absorbed) and it is definitely doing something to the leather.

May I suggest one of these:



http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j6...galgoldswc.jpg :cool:

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Originally Posted by GatorJ

While this statement makes intuitive sense, it runs contrary to my experience with the sealed leather seats in my Ford Escape Hybrid and Leatherique Rejuvinator Oil. When I apply Leatherique, it does not run off, puddle and/or evaporate and the seats are noticeably softer after use of the product. The product is going somewhere (i.e. absorbed) and it is definitely doing something to the leather.

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I read a lot about how the leather feels `softer` after Leatherique. Is it possible you may be feeling the residue left by the oils in the Leatherique. I can not see how coated leather is going to feel softer, because there is a barrier between you and the actual leather. Note: I have used Leatherique before. I think it is way too time consuming and would rather apply a product with UV protection, such as 303.

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Originally Posted by judyb

`Conditioners` do not protect leather. For protection you need a good water based fluorochemical product that will act like a `scothgard` and will inhibit body oils from being soaked into the leather. You also need to be sure that the product actually works as a protector. Many manufacturers are now changing the name of their `conditioners` to `protectors` without changing the product so they do not work.



`Conditioners` generally contain oils and/or waxes which on finished leather cannot penetrate the coating that is on leather and therefore sit on the surface and only serve to attract more dirt and oils which in time will break down the finish and pigment. If `conditioners` are put on leather that has cracked and the oils penetrate the leather then this upsets the balance of the fat liquors already in the leather and will also destabilise the adhesion of the pigment and finsh coating and so make the leather coating crack even more. Once a surplace of oils or dirt have penetrated the leather itself then this is what deteriorates the leather fibres and breaks the actual leather down.

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Thank you for this and your participation on Autopia.

There have been many discussions on proper leather car on these forums and so far I have never read anything as definitive as what you are saying. Everything makes sense and I can believe that you know what you are talking about. I`ll be watching this thread to see what cleaners and protectants you recommend.

:wavey

Great leather info. I`m subscribed... :xyxthumbs

Here`s judyb`s website:

LTT Leather Care - Leather Repair Cleaning Products - Training Courses Articles - Protection and Care Plans



Very interesting stuff. I also read through some of her past posts and she`s given some great advise. Alot goes against the grain (pun intended) from what most of us have been trained to believe with leather cleaning and protecting.

The 303 Protectant is a UV protector and is recommended for vinyls etc. Whilst this may have some benefit there is no evidence that it has been specifically tested for leather. A good leather protector will also contain UV protection but will also have been thoroughly tested for use on leather. As there are specific leather products for protection purposes I would not recommend something that has not been tested.



I have not tested the protection properties of this product myself but will try and get hold of some and see what the results are.



The products we use have been tested on leather over a very long period of time and are developed to keep up with the changing market. We try and supply the best that are avaialable from all over the world so are always open to new sugestions and products but they do have to stand up before being added to our range.



Much of the `old fashioned` knowledge or training on leather comes from when leather was tanned in a very different way and unfortunatley the myths have stuck and become rather hard to change.



Please just ask away and I will try and answer your questions.

How to clean a leather steeling wheel ?

Here are what I did and it works very well to my car.



1.Dip a tooth brush into a liquid dish wash detergent (2 teaspoons) diluted with hot water (1/4 cup) in a paper cup, and then uses it to gently brush the steering wheel and immediately wipe off with a paper towel to remove the detergent and water. Work only a quarter of steeling wheel at one time before continues to clean the next quarter of the steeling wheel.

2.Use a cloth wet with water to wipe the whole steeling wheel to remove any possible detergent left over, and immediately wipe off with a paper towel to remove any possible water left.

3.Uses a portable home electric fan to blow dry the leather steeling wheel for 10 to 20 minutes.

(Avoid leather cleaners, conditioners and protectants that will remove the special finishes and coatings on the leather steeling wheel. Avoid leather material to contact with water for longer than the necessary! )



Aug. 22, 2009

Why would you avoid leather cleaners and protectants? These will be far less likely to remove any finishes or coatings.



Dish washer detergents on the other hand contain a lot of salts these days which will definitely break down the finish on leather and so should be avoided.



Water is good for leather (this is what `conditions` it as it keeps it hydrated) and is an important factor in its care and maintenance. Excessive water (oversoaking) can cause damage to the fibres but on an everday basis cleaning and protecting with water based products is what leather needs.



Steering wheels should be protected from new (as with all leather) and then cleaned on a regular basis to avoid the oils from your hands damaging the finish on the leather (body oils are very aggressive) most people leave it until it is too late and then they are very difficult to fix.

Once they are deteriorated they would need degreasing and refinishing but this is generally a very difficult process without taking the wheel out so it is far better to look after them from the start (as with all leather). It is far more economical to use good quality dedicated leather products (ones tested within the leather industry) as these will always prolong the life of your leather and less corrective work will be necessary which is when it gets expensive.

I have a 03 mustang with a leather wrapped steering wheel. never had a good, deep cleaning till about 3 days ago. I bought leatherique for my seats and decided to give the steering wheel a small dose of it. turned out great. i bought the car slightly used and the steering wheel is now better looking and feeling then when i bought it. it has tan dye and a brown dye. when i used the scrub brush that came with my leatherique kit, it took some dye off, so if you go this approach i would just use a MF. After i saw some dye transfer i started using a MF only to remove with great results.













baracoda:ca

Interesting information in this thread. Subscribed. :)

These pictures show how I do it!







#1] Apply a pH 7.7 prep cleaner, agitate with a horsehair brush and let dwell 10 to 30 minutes to allow the cleaner to penetrate, lubricate and suspense the greasy soiled leather.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/474.jpg







#2] Clean-off sticky residue with a pH 3.8 cleaner and rinse-off remaining residue with a pH 3.0 rinse until towel is clean and the leather feels squeaky clean.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/481.jpg







#3] Predictable foreign contamination-free result every-time!

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/489.jpg



You can do it too!







Roger Koh

Leather Doctor®

never had a problem with lexol and gliptone liquid leather

always use common sense and prevention rather than repair :)

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always use common sense and prevention rather than repair

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Very good advice here