Member of another forum has epoxy paint drop problem

**Cassman** · 03-20-2007, 03:21 PM

As a favor to him, I am quoting his post here:

I have a new 07G.. and somehow paint accidentally splattered onto my car.. I have drops of paint on my bumper and one on my hood..

any ideas how to get it off? It was noticed after it was dry and not sure how long its been on there..

I am freaking out and not sure what I should use to get it off?????

Apparently, he has been told that the epoxy from a garage floor is impossible to remove. If anyone has any ideas, I`ll refer him to this post. Thanks.

**Wetwerks** · 03-20-2007, 03:35 PM

Has he tried clay yet? Thats what I would start with.

Walter

Co-owner

**Cassman** · 03-20-2007, 03:46 PM

Originally Posted by Wetwerks

Has he tried clay yet? Thats what I would start with.

Walter

Co-owner

Yeah, that is what I told him. I sent him a link to this site, so maybe he will chime in. Otherwise, it seems like a unique enough situation that it may assist other members here with a present or future similar problem.

**Changeling** · 03-20-2007, 04:17 PM

Originally Posted by Cassman

Yeah, that is what I told him. I sent him a link to this site, so maybe he will chime in. Otherwise, it seems like a unique enough situation that it may assist other members here with a present or future similar problem.

3m machine oil has been quoted as removing fresh/somewhat paint. Really don`t know. Good luck. Apply and "Gently rub with a very soft rag (cotton cloth)".

Changeling

**IsaG35** · 03-20-2007, 10:14 PM

Hi Guys,

I am the 07G owner with the epoxy problem.

Just to start off.. I am a female

my husband is the one who got epoxy garage floor paint into my car..

It is hardened on their good as we didnt notice the problem till a few days later..

I took it to a body shop and a dent place.. basically the epoxy is stuck on there and they are saying its harder than the paint..

They said the clay bar wouldnt work because its epoxy and its hardened too much like cement..

I am taking my car to the dent place tomorrow and the guy said $125 if he can fix it - if not its free.. so I am going to try that..

**ScoobNewb007** · 03-21-2007, 12:28 AM

if you want you can try some thing called the blob eliminator.

I don`t know will it work on epoxy paint, i guess you can contact someone at langka.com or search the web for something similar to langka`s blob eliminator and email about the epoxy paint.

the blob eliminator is around 20bucks before shipping so you might give it a shot if you don`t want to spend 100+ bucks to remove at the body shop.

**sneek** · 03-21-2007, 01:17 AM

i dont think that would work

**admac** · 03-21-2007, 01:44 AM

langka "works" based on the fact that it`s used on a soft and not very durable paint. i can`t think of anything really other than using a very straight sanding block like a meguiars unigrit and then working it down ever so gently and avoiding the good paint areas as much as possible. unless it`s actually penetrated the clear (which doesn`t seem possible) it is at least plausible that it can be sanded off. of course, you run a very high risk of sanding through your clear.

**dmxsoulja3** · 03-21-2007, 01:51 AM

I`ll be honest, if I didn`t have an autopian near me to try wetsanding the area in the smallest area possible near the damage with unigrit and use a PC or Rotary to finish it down, not expecting 100% perfection but just to "blend" it in per say, I would probably live with it...Everytime I`ve ever seen a car leave a body shop for something small like a scratch or some door dings, they have swirls everywhere else when they didn`t before, or recently that guy posted they hazed his clear really bad. You should post where you are located to see if someone local can come help you out

**Wetwerks** · 03-21-2007, 08:04 AM

On an extreme situation such as this when clay will not work...you could go the plastic razor blade route, but care must be taken and will also require some light compounding, polish to bring the finish back. We have used this method with actual cement drops that hardend on work trucks.

Walter

Co-owner

**admac** · 03-21-2007, 02:37 PM

you could also try the single sided razor scraping technique. use a single sided razor and bend it slightly outward as you scrape the surface of the drop. bend it in such a way that the middle of the blade is extended downward while keeping the edges of the blade away from the paint. then you can just scrape like a paint scraper. it`s how painters can get rid of runs and nibs in their paint jobs.

**imported_themightytimmah** · 03-21-2007, 04:45 PM

Plastic razor blade might work, I`d be afraid the paint would come off with the epoxy.

I`d probably take a piece of 400 grit paper, wrap it around a pen/sharpie/etc and knock off the top of the epoxy, then switch to 1500 on a pen/sharpie/etc and get the epoxy almost level with the paint. I`d finish sand it with 3000 to blend/level it in, then compound and polish it out.

I did this to remove cured epoxy from my Grandpa`s Taurus (he tried to glue a mirror back on and dripped all over the paint) and I was able to do it without removing more than a tiny bit of clear. It was a helluva nailbiter though, I was pretty worried about screwing up the 400 grit stage. This is probably what the body shop guy is going to do - just hope he doesn`t sand too much or mess up washing the car/finish polishing and leave swirls all over the car.

Edit: Make sure to tape off around the blob when 400 grit sanding. I didn`t do it when I fixed the Taurus, but it would probably make life a lot easier in the future.

**Wetwerks** · 03-22-2007, 08:35 AM

Originally Posted by themightytimmah

Plastic razor blade might work, I`d be afraid the paint would come off with the epoxy.

I`d probably take a piece of 400 grit paper, wrap it around a pen/sharpie/etc and knock off the top of the epoxy, then switch to 1500 on a pen/sharpie/etc and get the epoxy almost level with the paint. I`d finish sand it with 3000 to blend/level it in, then compound and polish it out.

I did this to remove cured epoxy from my Grandpa`s Taurus (he tried to glue a mirror back on and dripped all over the paint) and I was able to do it without removing more than a tiny bit of clear. It was a helluva nailbiter though, I was pretty worried about screwing up the 400 grit stage. This is probably what the body shop guy is going to do - just hope he doesn`t sand too much or mess up washing the car/finish polishing and leave swirls all over the car.

Edit: Make sure to tape off around the blob when 400 grit sanding. I didn`t do it when I fixed the Taurus, but it would probably make life a lot easier in the future.

That sounds like a great approach. I like the idea of taping off the areas around the epoxy to minimize excess paint exposure. Sounds like a plan of attack to DIY -vs- paying someone to do it and not know what the outcome will be. Are there any Autopians in the area that could help them out?

Walter

Co-owner

**Lone_Star** · 03-22-2007, 09:30 AM

Have you tried the clay? This too happened to my car and I first sprayed with WD-40, then an hour later wiped up the WD-40 and used Clay to take off the paint. Definitely worth a try before spending $125.

**IsaG35** · 03-22-2007, 01:35 PM

I went to the dent shop place today. The guy got it off perfectly!! He did amazing work.. however, in the process somehow the paint got chipped? maybe from experiementing.. but its white underneath and not black like when I have gotten rock chips.. its on the lower part of the bumper where the body kit is..

He did some touch up but you can still see it.. He said he would work more on it Monday for free but I was thinking of buying the dealer touch up and having him use that.. I am not too upset because he really did get it all out and that was better than repainting the car and its not worse than before......

Any ideas for the paint chip? I did order that Langka paint chip kit so maybe that will work?