polishing after wetsanding

**imported_paradigm** · 03-18-2007, 07:39 PM

what would you consider normal for bringing a finish back after wetsanding? obviously this is a general question with many things that can affect the outcome (hardness of the clear being the biggest one).

i`m asking because today i decided to practice a bit more with my hitachi rotary and was not able to remove many of the random scratches on my winter car`s (92 accord) hood. i was using an orange LC w/ OC...then stepped up to OHC. 1700rpm and a few tries and the scratches remained. i could not catch my fingernail on them...

SO, i figured it`s a good time to practice my wetsanding again too. i only used 2500 unigrit...looking back i should have hit it with 3000 as well.

to remove the wetsanding marks i had to do OHC w/ the orange LC many times, then a black LC and OP to finish it up. i`m curious to hear what is recommended since this took me a lot more time than i expected with the rotary...

thanks-

**the other pc** · 03-19-2007, 11:50 AM

As you said there are too many variables and too many different systems and methodologies to say any one is Ã¢â‚¬Å“normal.Ã¢â‚¬

ItÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s most common to use a heavy compound with a wool pad to remove sanding scratch.

Lake CountryÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s chart does suggest that the orange pad can remove #2000 scratch but the compound and paint obviously affect the outcome dramatically.

PC.

**Accumulator** · 03-19-2007, 12:46 PM

paradigm- The difference between 2500 and 3K really can be significant, so yeah, maybe you oughta get some Unigrit 3000 for next time. But 2500 never seems to leave *real* nasty scratches and I even use the 2K unigrit block now and then.

I`m a *little* surprised you had to do a lot more rotary work than you`d exected to remove the sanding scratches, but it doesn`t sound all *that* weird to me. Sometimes things just take a lot longer than we expect them to with the rotary, makes me think I/we oughta have some wool pads for such serious correction, as the other PC mentioned.

**imported_rydawg** · 03-19-2007, 02:23 PM

To make it easier, wetsand with 3000 grit and then a polish with a wool pad will take them out.

If you want to stop at 2000 or 2500, use a wool pad and Prestra ultra cutting creme regular or Powergloss. You need the cutting wool action and will bring to an excellent gloss! I normally stop at 2000 grit and polish with one of these and the finish will be like glass.

Then use a foam polish pad on a rotory or PC with a fine polish and the rotory haze will dissapear into a deep swirl free surface. The results will be amazing!

**imported_rydawg** · 03-19-2007, 02:28 PM

If you only have OP and OC, then use them with a wool first and then proceed with a foam. Don`t be afraid of the wool rotory swirls. They will come out very easy with a foam pad.

**imported_paradigm** · 03-19-2007, 03:25 PM

thanks all! i do have 3000 unigrit...just didn`t use it this time. i`ll definitely step up to that after the more aggressive unigrit steps.

i currently have the following aggressive polishes: OHC, SSR-3, Meg`s 83. i haven`t tried 83 with the rotary yet, but i`m guessing it`s even more effective via rotary than with the PC.

**Accumulator** · 03-19-2007, 05:10 PM

Originally Posted by rydawg

To make it easier, wetsand with 3000 grit and then a polish with a wool pad will take them out...

FWIW, even on the Audis I`ve never had any real problems removing the 3K scratches, even with foam pads and just the PC. Even did a few by hand (3M PI-III RC 05933) just to see if it`d work, and it did.